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	<title>Board Game Arena - Contribucións do/a usuario/a [gl]</title>
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	<updated>2026-09-20T23:11:57Z</updated>
	<subtitle>Contribucións do/a usuario/a</subtitle>
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	<entry>
		<id>https://gl.doc.boardgamearena.com/index.php?title=Tips_lostcities&amp;diff=3358</id>
		<title>Tips lostcities</title>
		<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="https://gl.doc.boardgamearena.com/index.php?title=Tips_lostcities&amp;diff=3358"/>
		<updated>2019-02-14T06:48:23Z</updated>

		<summary type="html">&lt;p&gt;Nandblock: &lt;/p&gt;
&lt;hr /&gt;
&lt;div&gt;If you have handshake cards at the beginning and even one card in that suit, play the handshake and hope to draw more in the suit. To score well in this game you must invest substantially in a venture, without knowing in advance that you will draw the right cards in the right order. It is better to have some suits that take a loss (which you try to minimize) so that you can focus on making other suits pay off.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
There is no need to attempt all 5 expeditions; usually 4 is sufficient (and it&#039;s likely one will score poorly or negatively).&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;Drawing from the deck is vital.&#039;&#039;&#039; Obviously, if a good card is available among the discards, or you need to delay the endgame, take a discarded card. But otherwise, take from the deck, because either it&#039;s a card that may benefit you, a card you can discard to buy time, or the card your opponent is waiting for.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
It&#039;s often more constructive to hold on to a suit your opponent is trying to complete than to try completing it yourself!&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Do not be afraid to lose a small amount of points in a suit if it allows you to stall and continue drawing from the deck. Effective stalling (while you wait for the cards you really need) is the heart of this game.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Keep in mind that if you leave a large gap in a suit, this helps your opponent: if you play Blue 7 after Blue 3, this means that your opponent may safely ditch Blue 4, 5, 6. Forcing them to hang on to cards for a long duration is important.&lt;/div&gt;</summary>
		<author><name>Nandblock</name></author>
	</entry>
	<entry>
		<id>https://gl.doc.boardgamearena.com/index.php?title=Tips_madeira&amp;diff=3349</id>
		<title>Tips madeira</title>
		<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="https://gl.doc.boardgamearena.com/index.php?title=Tips_madeira&amp;diff=3349"/>
		<updated>2019-02-05T22:57:20Z</updated>

		<summary type="html">&lt;p&gt;Nandblock: /* Crown Requests */&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;hr /&gt;
&lt;div&gt;== Worker Placement ==&lt;br /&gt;
You need at least one worker in Regions 2 and 3 most of the time, as the building actions here are vital to winning; and in the forest. Whether you wish to keep one or more workers in Region 1 will depend in part on how heavily you plan to invest in colonists, since it has only one building to activate.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;Region 1:&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
:&#039;&#039;Alfândega (Customs)&#039;&#039;: By having colonists, you save yourself having to take harvest actions; in addition, it is a steady source of PP if you have ships in the colonies. This strategy works well with the Expeditions Crown Request, but requires that you have fewer workers in the fields or cities, so try to pick up compensating guild favors (Engineer, Diplomat).&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;Region 2:&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
:&#039;&#039;Moinho (Mill)&#039;&#039;: A reliable end-of-round source of 5 bread, if you have 3 workers in this region.&lt;br /&gt;
:&#039;&#039;Capitania (Captaincy)&#039;&#039;: The main way to move workers into the city. If you have 3 workers in the region, you can earn an easy 15 points over 5 rounds.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;Region 3:&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
:&#039;&#039;Casa da Coroa (Guild Palace)&#039;&#039;: Important once you have accumulated guild favours.&lt;br /&gt;
:&#039;&#039;Fortaleza (Watch Tower)&#039;&#039;: The most powerful building on the board; it is a rare round that you will not want to place a guild die here. Placing one or two workers in the City Watch accomplishes 3 things simultaneously: discarding pirates, enabling you to use pirate die, and scoring 4 VPs if you have a majority in the Honor phase.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== Getting and Losing Pirates ==&lt;br /&gt;
There are two main approaches to pirates: (1) try to avoid having any by game-end (thus handing your opponent a large point penalty if they did not discard their own pirates); (2) try to score so much without paying building/maintenance costs that the 16-point penalty for having most pirates is of little concern. (Try to avoid the extra penalty for having more than 20 pirates, in any case.)&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
It is quite possible to discard all pirates by game-end. To play optimally, however, you will need to take pirates in opening rounds in order to conserve money, bread or wood, then discard them later. It is rarely possible to achieve much in the game while paying everything as you go.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The main way of discarding pirates is placing workers in the City Watch, via Fortaleza or other means (Scout, the 3rd passing favour, the King&#039;s favour). All these actions discard 3 pirates (or 6 if you activate Fortaleza&#039;s stronger ability). Therefore, as you approach the endgame, make sure you have an even multiple of 3 pirates. (Constable allows you to discard half your pirates; it is the only exception to the rule of 3. If you are going for a pirate-heavy strategy, grab this favour.)&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Putting a guild die on Fortaleza (if you have workers in Region 3) lets you skip paying for earlier building actions, then discard the resulting pirates at Fortaleza: an efficient way to conserve money if you don&#039;t need some earlier building actions.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== Picking Up Points Along the Way ==&lt;br /&gt;
It is important to pick up a few points every round, not just rounds 1/3/5. There are 3 buildings that potentially give you points, one per region: 4 points for majority in the watch; 1 point per ship for sending a worker to a colony; 1 or 3 points for the cities. Those points will stack up across 5 rounds, if you can consistently snag one or two of these per round. There are also a few guild favours that help, notably the Scout and Lady (plus passing areas II and III, plus some King&#039;s Favors).&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== Wood and Bread ==&lt;br /&gt;
Never start a round without bread, as you need it to modify dice. Take a few pirates if necessary to hang on to some bread.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Never discard wood in the first few rounds of the game when maintaining your ships: take a few pirates instead. It is simply too precious to waste, as you need it for guild favors. Unlike bread, small quantities of wood may be purchased as long as you have access, so make sure you have enough reals on hand to make up the difference (or use the Windmill).&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== The Windmill ==&lt;br /&gt;
Do not neglect to use the Windmill to trade goods, gain bread, etc. Whenever you can, especially early in the game, move up the Windmill to conserve bread. (The Miller guild favour is especially useful for this.)&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== Guild Favors ==&lt;br /&gt;
Obtaining these is crucial to your game: do not neglect to collect and use them. Let them shape your strategy--for instance, if you get Diplomat or Engineer, you can leave more workers in the colonies while still being able to take powerful building actions or make decent harvests. If you get Lord, you&#039;ll be able to save money on building actions, so Wealth of Nations becomes easy to fulfill.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== Passing ==&lt;br /&gt;
More actions is not necessarily better: try to pass early, once you&#039;ve completed all actions you absolutely must do. Unless you urgently need an action lower on the passing column, grab as high a spot as possible. Consider taking the 2 reals to guarantee first pick of dice, request, and guild to unflip.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== Crown Requests ==&lt;br /&gt;
When selecting crown requests, consider whether they work well together, what round you will fulfill them in, and what requests will be left unclaimed for future rounds. In general, avoid ending up with multiple copies of the same request in Round 5, as the 2nd copy will usually score little or nothing; the exception is Wealth of Nations if you&#039;re rolling in cash.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
: &#039;&#039;Urbanization&#039;&#039; (city workers) is the most useful request, in Round 1 especially, as you are guaranteed to score some points with no effort, and scoring 12 or 15 points is relatively easy.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
: &#039;&#039;Wealth of the Nations&#039;&#039; (money) is the most flexible and easiest to fulfill. However, keep in mind that in Round 5 it effectively nets only 12 points maximum (since 15 reals = 3 points in final scoring). Nonetheless, it is handy in later rounds because unlike all other requests, duplicates are easy to fulfill for a full 15 points, as long as you have a good source of money.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
: &#039;&#039;Influence of the Guilds&#039;&#039; can yield 15 or 20 points in Rounds 3 and 5, the highest potential return on a single request.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
: &#039;&#039;Market Routes&#039;&#039; and &#039;&#039;Expeditions&#039;&#039; both score up to 18 points. Avoid having to fulfill them simultaneously in Rounds 3 and 5; the wood/money upkeep on 6 ships simultaneously in play is onerous, and in Round 5 scoring well on both of them will require enormous quantities of wine.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
It is helpful to have complementary requests in hand: Market Routes + Wealth of the Nations (trade routes get you money); Influence of the Guilds + Urbanization (claiming Guild favours clears space for urbanization).&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== Endgame ==&lt;br /&gt;
Keep in mind that you need to marshal your resources carefully in endgame--hopefully by this point you have an engine for making money while also discarding pirates. Depending on your setup, you want a max of 3 or 6 pirates by the time you reach Fortaleza. Keep in mind that if you don&#039;t have enough wood and bread on hand at game-end, you will take a lot of last-minute pirates: a small shortfall in wood is not fatal (as you can pay for it), but a shortfall in bread cannot be made up, so make sure your position on the windmill + available bread is sufficient. (Also: start moving workers off the board to conserve bread in the last round: use Watch dice, or obtain a Watch majority and remove a worker for 4 PP).&lt;/div&gt;</summary>
		<author><name>Nandblock</name></author>
	</entry>
	<entry>
		<id>https://gl.doc.boardgamearena.com/index.php?title=Tips_madeira&amp;diff=3338</id>
		<title>Tips madeira</title>
		<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="https://gl.doc.boardgamearena.com/index.php?title=Tips_madeira&amp;diff=3338"/>
		<updated>2019-01-31T19:56:06Z</updated>

		<summary type="html">&lt;p&gt;Nandblock: /* Crown Requests */&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;hr /&gt;
&lt;div&gt;== Worker Placement ==&lt;br /&gt;
You need at least one worker in Regions 2 and 3 most of the time, as the building actions here are vital to winning; and in the forest. Whether you wish to keep one or more workers in Region 1 will depend in part on how heavily you plan to invest in colonists, since it has only one building to activate.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;Region 1:&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
:&#039;&#039;Alfândega (Customs)&#039;&#039;: By having colonists, you save yourself having to take harvest actions; in addition, it is a steady source of PP if you have ships in the colonies. This strategy works well with the Expeditions Crown Request, but requires that you have fewer workers in the fields or cities, so try to pick up compensating guild favors (Engineer, Diplomat).&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;Region 2:&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
:&#039;&#039;Moinho (Mill)&#039;&#039;: A reliable end-of-round source of 5 bread, if you have 3 workers in this region.&lt;br /&gt;
:&#039;&#039;Capitania (Captaincy)&#039;&#039;: The main way to move workers into the city. If you have 3 workers in the region, you can earn an easy 15 points over 5 rounds.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;Region 3:&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
:&#039;&#039;Casa da Coroa (Guild Palace)&#039;&#039;: Important once you have accumulated guild favours.&lt;br /&gt;
:&#039;&#039;Fortaleza (Watch Tower)&#039;&#039;: The most powerful building on the board; it is a rare round that you will not want to place a guild die here. Placing one or two workers in the City Watch accomplishes 3 things simultaneously: discarding pirates, enabling you to use pirate die, and scoring 4 VPs if you have a majority in the Honor phase.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== Getting and Losing Pirates ==&lt;br /&gt;
There are two main approaches to pirates: (1) try to avoid having any by game-end (thus handing your opponent a large point penalty if they did not discard their own pirates); (2) try to score so much without paying building/maintenance costs that the 16-point penalty for having most pirates is of little concern. (Try to avoid the extra penalty for having more than 20 pirates, in any case.)&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
It is quite possible to discard all pirates by game-end. To play optimally, however, you will need to take pirates in opening rounds in order to conserve money, bread or wood, then discard them later. It is rarely possible to achieve much in the game while paying everything as you go.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The main way of discarding pirates is placing workers in the City Watch, via Fortaleza or other means (Scout, the 3rd passing favour, the King&#039;s favour). All these actions discard 3 pirates (or 6 if you activate Fortaleza&#039;s stronger ability). Therefore, as you approach the endgame, make sure you have an even multiple of 3 pirates. (Constable allows you to discard half your pirates; it is the only exception to the rule of 3. If you are going for a pirate-heavy strategy, grab this favour.)&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Putting a guild die on Fortaleza (if you have workers in Region 3) lets you skip paying for earlier building actions, then discard the resulting pirates at Fortaleza: an efficient way to conserve money if you don&#039;t need some earlier building actions.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== Picking Up Points Along the Way ==&lt;br /&gt;
It is important to pick up a few points every round, not just rounds 1/3/5. There are 3 buildings that potentially give you points, one per region: 4 points for majority in the watch; 1 point per ship for sending a worker to a colony; 1 or 3 points for the cities. Those points will stack up across 5 rounds, if you can consistently snag one or two of these per round. There are also a few guild favours that help, notably the Scout and Lady (plus passing areas II and III, plus some King&#039;s Favors).&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== Wood and Bread ==&lt;br /&gt;
Never start a round without bread, as you need it to modify dice. Take a few pirates if necessary to hang on to some bread.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Never discard wood in the first few rounds of the game when maintaining your ships: take a few pirates instead. It is simply too precious to waste, as you need it for guild favors. Unlike bread, small quantities of wood may be purchased as long as you have access, so make sure you have enough reals on hand to make up the difference (or use the Windmill).&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== The Windmill ==&lt;br /&gt;
Do not neglect to use the Windmill to trade goods, gain bread, etc. Whenever you can, especially early in the game, move up the Windmill to conserve bread. (The Miller guild favour is especially useful for this.)&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== Guild Favors ==&lt;br /&gt;
Obtaining these is crucial to your game: do not neglect to collect and use them. Let them shape your strategy--for instance, if you get Diplomat or Engineer, you can leave more workers in the colonies while still being able to take powerful building actions or make decent harvests. If you get Lord, you&#039;ll be able to save money on building actions, so Wealth of Nations becomes easy to fulfill.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== Passing ==&lt;br /&gt;
More actions is not necessarily better: try to pass early, once you&#039;ve completed all actions you absolutely must do. Unless you urgently need an action lower on the passing column, grab as high a spot as possible. Consider taking the 2 reals to guarantee first pick of dice, request, and guild to unflip.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== Crown Requests ==&lt;br /&gt;
When selecting crown requests, consider whether they work well together, what round you will fulfill them in, and what requests will be left unclaimed for future rounds. In general, avoid ending up with multiple copies of the same request in Round 5, as the 2nd copy will usually score little or nothing; the exception is Wealth of Nations if you&#039;re rolling in cash.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
: &#039;&#039;Urbanization&#039;&#039; (city workers) is the most useful request, in Round 1 especially, as you are guaranteed to score some points with no effort, and scoring 12 or 15 points is relatively easy.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
: &#039;&#039;Wealth of the Nations&#039;&#039; (money) is easy to fulfill, but keep in mind in Round 5 it effectively nets only 12 points maximum (since 15 reals = 3 points in final scoring). However, it is handy in later rounds because unlike all other requests, duplicates are easy to fulfill for a full 15 points, as long as you have a good source of money.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
: &#039;&#039;Influence of the Guilds&#039;&#039; can yield 15 or 20 points in Rounds 3 and 5, the highest potential return on a single request.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
: &#039;&#039;Market Routes&#039;&#039; and &#039;&#039;Expeditions&#039;&#039; both score up to 18 points. Avoid having to fulfill them simultaneously in Rounds 3 and 5; the wood/money upkeep on 6 ships simultaneously in play is onerous, and in Round 5 scoring well on both of them will require enormous quantities of wine.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
It is helpful to have complementary requests in hand: Market Routes + Wealth of the Nations (trade routes get you money); Influence of the Guilds + Urbanization (claiming Guild favours clears space for urbanization).&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== Endgame ==&lt;br /&gt;
Keep in mind that you need to marshal your resources carefully in endgame--hopefully by this point you have an engine for making money while also discarding pirates. Depending on your setup, you want a max of 3 or 6 pirates by the time you reach Fortaleza. Keep in mind that if you don&#039;t have enough wood and bread on hand at game-end, you will take a lot of last-minute pirates: a small shortfall in wood is not fatal (as you can pay for it), but a shortfall in bread cannot be made up, so make sure your position on the windmill + available bread is sufficient. (Also: start moving workers off the board to conserve bread in the last round: use Watch dice, or obtain a Watch majority and remove a worker for 4 PP).&lt;/div&gt;</summary>
		<author><name>Nandblock</name></author>
	</entry>
	<entry>
		<id>https://gl.doc.boardgamearena.com/index.php?title=Gamehelpchess&amp;diff=3332</id>
		<title>Gamehelpchess</title>
		<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="https://gl.doc.boardgamearena.com/index.php?title=Gamehelpchess&amp;diff=3332"/>
		<updated>2019-01-18T21:31:29Z</updated>

		<summary type="html">&lt;p&gt;Nandblock: Blanked the page&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;hr /&gt;
&lt;div&gt;&lt;/div&gt;</summary>
		<author><name>Nandblock</name></author>
	</entry>
	<entry>
		<id>https://gl.doc.boardgamearena.com/index.php?title=Tips_tashkalar&amp;diff=3130</id>
		<title>Tips tashkalar</title>
		<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="https://gl.doc.boardgamearena.com/index.php?title=Tips_tashkalar&amp;diff=3130"/>
		<updated>2018-08-18T15:11:58Z</updated>

		<summary type="html">&lt;p&gt;Nandblock: /* High Form Strategy */&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;hr /&gt;
&lt;div&gt;== High Form Strategy ==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;1) Board Management&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;Keep your piece-count down.&#039;&#039; If a piece of your own is not helping your position and you have a chance to destroy it, do so rather than destroying an enemy piece--this puts you rather than them closer to a flare. If you&#039;re ahead in the game and your piece count is high, consider discarding cards or summoning a being on top of your own piece (oversummoning) to avoid placing another piece on the board.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;Keep your pieces together.&#039;&#039; If your position is dispersed, those pieces will add to your piece-count, making it impossible to get a life-saving flare while being useless for summoning or claiming tasks.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;Place pieces on or around coloured squares by preference.&#039;&#039; Even if there&#039;s no coloured summoning/conquest task on the board, one will eventually pop up. (Caveat: do not casually leave pieces on red squares if you are playing against Highland and they haven&#039;t yet played Blood Shaman.)&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;Do not let your opponent set up camp far away from you.&#039;&#039; Make sure you are always able to destroy a piece or two of theirs.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;Disrupt your opponent&#039;s pieces.&#039;&#039; By preference, destroy or move whatever pieces your opponent put down on the last turn: they probably placed them for a reason. In general, it&#039;s not a good idea to let them establish a formation undisturbed.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;2) Hand Management&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;Play or discard cards rather than letting them go stale.&#039;&#039; Don&#039;t grow too attached to a card unless you&#039;re absolutely sure you need to use it soon to accomplish a task. If it&#039;s not helping you, get rid of it by summoning it, even if you can&#039;t trigger its effects, or discard it. The smaller your deck, the more precise your endgame play will be, as you will know with certainty what you will draw; and if you cannot score 9 points, you want to be the person who triggers the endgame by running out of cards. -- By discarding you can also get rid of a flare that is hard to trigger, or Legends that are not useful. It also improves the precision of your endgame if you use the opportunity to place one or two cards on the bottom of your deck.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;Anticipate key cards in your deck.&#039;&#039; Don&#039;t just set up existing patterns in your hand (though do that too!); if you know a useful card is in your deck, try to keep a few pieces on the board that will help you achieve that pattern. It might be the next card you draw. (E.g. if you have the Highland deck, try to maintain a few pieces at the corners of a green square in anticipation of Ritual Master, or a bow-shape for Warlord / Eagle Lord.) When you&#039;re just starting out, it is impossible to remember all the cards, but be aware of the most powerful and disruptive ones: Hypnotist and Bomb (North/South Empire); Blood Shaman, Werewolf, and Ritual Master (Highland); Forest Ancient (Sylvan); Everfrost Sentinel; and Leviathan and Time Elemental (Legends).&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;Track the cards.&#039;&#039; If you are playing a turn-based game, use the Notes feature of BGA to keep track of both your cards and your opponent&#039;s.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;Learn the decks and Legendary Beings.&#039;&#039; To reiterate: as a beginner, &#039;&#039;do not worry about memorizing every single card!&#039;&#039; But eventually you will need to be able to recognize patterns that your opponent is trying to form, and know what&#039;s coming up in your own deck that might be useful.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;3) Flares&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;THE GOLDEN RULE: Flares are not a catch-up mechanism. They penalize bad, aggressive play, rather than compensating players who are losing.&#039;&#039; Grasping this point is essential to playing Tash-Kalar well.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;Be wary of flares.&#039;&#039; A typical beginner&#039;s mistake is to assume that accumulating more pieces than your opponent, and destroying many of your opponent&#039;s pieces, is a good idea. But while it may work occasionally, &#039;&#039;&#039;this brute-force approach will usually lose the game against a competent player,&#039;&#039;&#039; because it gives them the opportunity to flare every turn. Extra actions are extremely valuable in Tash-Kalar--often they are the deciding factor in claiming a task or totally reshaping the board--so don&#039;t let your opponent get flares easily. If you are ahead in piece-count, try to stay ahead by a maximum of 2 heroic pieces and 3 pieces in total--this guarantees that only one flare (the 2/5 one) is playable. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;Don&#039;t be TOO cautious.&#039;&#039; You sometimes still need to risk a flare for the sake of scoring. However, if you must exceed the 2/3 limit, avoid triggering top and bottom flares at once. (The upper number on flares ranges from 2 to 5; the lower number from 4 to 6.) None of the bottom-4 flares are big game-changing ones; but several top-3 flares are powerful, so if you&#039;re going to risk triggering one, go ahead 2/4 rather than 3/3 by preference.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;Play your flare!&#039;&#039; If you can play it, the vast majority of the time you should. This is true even if it does nothing helpful--in that case, play it simply to discard it and get a more useful one in return.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;Discard a bad flare when possible.&#039;&#039; If you have a high-value flare (such as 4/6 or 5/5) that you can&#039;t trigger, and you&#039;re falling behind in the game, consider discarding in order to ditch the flare. In addition to refreshing your hand and hopefully landing you a more usable flare, the discard action means you put down one fewer piece on the turn, meaning that you&#039;re very likely to be able to play the new flare.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;4) Tasks, Legends, and Scoring&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;Prioritize 1- and 2-point tasks, not 3-pointers and Legends.&#039;&#039; In particular, Side Chain and Corner Chain are very difficult to achieve without an exorbitant cost; they should be late-game goals or threats, but never strive to score them early on at the expense of snapping up cheap tasks (a common beginner&#039;s mistake). Legends are good, but since the 1 point they give is no better than an easily achievable 1-point task, can be taken away from you, and can net a max of 3 VPs in total, they should not be a priority unless they help accomplish a task. Claim easy tasks before your opponent does, as they stack up quickly--in particular, never leave End of Legends, Heroic Destruction or Rainbow Domination unclaimed for long, as they are the easiest 2-point tasks to claim.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;Don&#039;t focus on destroying your opponent&#039;s legendary pieces.&#039;&#039; Unless the legendary piece is actually dangerous (e.g. Red/Green Legends is up for grabs), keep focused on claiming tasks not destroying it. Very few cards can even move it, so it&#039;ll probably just sit there anyway until you can deal with it. It&#039;s better to either summon your own Legend, work towards a task, or demolish their position. If you destroy the legendary piece without getting rid of their heroic pieces, your opponent will just summon up another anyway. Keep in mind that once they have 3 legendary pieces on board, they can&#039;t score any more from summoning another one. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;5) Opening Moves&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
In general (though this advice is dependent on your initial draw and the first tasks available), place your first pieces near the centre but somewhat off-centre, and in the vicinity of (rather than directly on) coloured squares. This maximizes control of the board, positional flexibility, and ability to engage in direct conflict or move away from it. Placing a common piece on a coloured square at the game&#039;s beginning is just asking for it to be destroyed; it is generally better to build towards summoning a heroic piece onto the square, which will be more resistant to attack and more capable of fulfilling tasks.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
If your hand is full of 2- and 3-piece patterns, being right next to your opponent&#039;s pieces is good, as you will be able to destroy their pieces easily. If it&#039;s full of 4- and 5-piece patterns, keep more distance at first.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;6) Patience&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Tash-Kalar games tend to have a dramatic mid-game &amp;quot;bounce&amp;quot;: it is very hard to hang on to an early lead, because the player in the lead will have typically grabbed all the tasks they can easily grab, used their best cards, and be on the verge of giving up flares. If you are behind, even by a substantial number of points, do not give in easily, especially since you will have a more precise sense of what&#039;s in your deck and your opponent&#039;s and can plan accordingly. If you are ahead, be wary: start reducing your piece-count, and if you have a strong lead, summon (or discard) Beings as much as possible to hasten the endgame.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== Cards ==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Here is a full list of all cards in Tash-Kalar&#039;s BGA implementation (numbers denote the pieces in the pattern):&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;IMPERIAL&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
* 2: Messenger, Swordmaster, Bomb&lt;br /&gt;
* 3: Chronicler, Herald, High Priestess, Summoner, Cannon, Assassin&lt;br /&gt;
* 4: Gryphon Rider, Knight, Master of Intrigue, Cavalry Captain, Infantry Captain, Champion, Time Mage, Gun Tower, Hypnotist&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;SYLVAN&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
* 2: Sapling, Kiskin Farseeders, Forest Wardens&lt;br /&gt;
* 3: Naiad, Charging Buck, Kiskin Spirit, Dryad, Forest Mystic, Sylvan Princess, Woodland Druid&lt;br /&gt;
* 4: Unicorn, Kiskin Boughrunner, Kiskin Leafsplitter, Centaur Spearman, Forest Ancient, Centaur Chieftain, Sylvan Queen, Tree Shepherd&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;HIGHLAND&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
* 2: Ritual Keeper, Wild Eagle, Clan Axeman&lt;br /&gt;
* 3: Dire Wolf, Clan Healer, Clan Guardian, Ritual Master, Hungry Bear&lt;br /&gt;
* 4: Wolf Rider, Mountain Troll, Hill Giant, Eagle Lord, War Summoner, War Drummer, Legend Slayer, Blood Shaman, Werewolf&lt;br /&gt;
* 5: Warlord&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;EVERFROST&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
* 2: Snow Fox, Crystal Mirror, Crystal Grower&lt;br /&gt;
* 3: Ice Princess, Royal Reindeer, Frostweave Illusionist, Frostweave Summoner, Frost Imp, Frozen Chest&lt;br /&gt;
* 4: Winter Whisperer, Glacier Giant, Ice Queen, Ice Wyvern, Everfrost Sentinel, Deathbringer, War Sled, Polar Bear, Snow Monster&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;LEGENDS&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
* Time Elemental, Earth Elemental, Fire Elemental, Storm Elemental, Leviathan, Hell Bull, Angel of Death, Two-Headed Dragon, Fire Dragon, Titan, Bone Catapult&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;FLARES&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Symbols:&lt;br /&gt;
* m = standard move; x = combat move&lt;br /&gt;
* ^ = standard leap; x^ = combat leap &lt;br /&gt;
* + = upgrade; A = gain action&lt;br /&gt;
* no sign = place&lt;br /&gt;
* H = heroic; C = common; P = any non-legendary piece&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Cards:&lt;br /&gt;
* 2 / 5 : ^C / A&lt;br /&gt;
* 3 / 4 : C / xP or mPP&lt;br /&gt;
* 3 / 5 : mCCC / A&lt;br /&gt;
* 3 / 6 : mC or +C / CC&lt;br /&gt;
* 3 / 6 : C / H&lt;br /&gt;
* 4 / 4 : C / C&lt;br /&gt;
* 4 / 4 : C or +C / x^C&lt;br /&gt;
* 4 / 6 : C / +C and A &lt;br /&gt;
* 4 / 5 : A / C&lt;br /&gt;
* 4 / 5 : C / C or convert enemy C&lt;br /&gt;
* 5 / 4 : H / mC xC&lt;br /&gt;
* 5 / 5 : CC / C&lt;/div&gt;</summary>
		<author><name>Nandblock</name></author>
	</entry>
	<entry>
		<id>https://gl.doc.boardgamearena.com/index.php?title=Tips_tashkalar&amp;diff=3112</id>
		<title>Tips tashkalar</title>
		<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="https://gl.doc.boardgamearena.com/index.php?title=Tips_tashkalar&amp;diff=3112"/>
		<updated>2018-07-14T20:25:16Z</updated>

		<summary type="html">&lt;p&gt;Nandblock: /* High Form Strategy */&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;hr /&gt;
&lt;div&gt;== High Form Strategy ==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;1) Board Management&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;Keep your piece-count down.&#039;&#039; If a piece of your own is not helping your position and you have a chance to destroy it, do so rather than destroying an enemy piece--this puts you rather than them closer to a flare. If you&#039;re ahead in the game and your piece count is high, consider discarding cards or summoning a being on top of your own piece (oversummoning) to avoid placing another piece on the board.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;Keep your pieces together.&#039;&#039; If your position is dispersed, those pieces will add to your piece-count, making it impossible to get a life-saving flare while being useless for summoning or claiming tasks.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;Place pieces on or around coloured squares by preference.&#039;&#039; Even if there&#039;s no coloured summoning/conquest task on the board, one will eventually pop up. (Caveat: do not casually leave pieces on red squares if you are playing against Highland and they haven&#039;t yet played Blood Shaman.)&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;Do not let your opponent set up camp far away from you.&#039;&#039; Make sure you are always able to destroy a piece or two of theirs.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;2) Hand Management&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;Play or discard cards rather than letting them go stale.&#039;&#039; Don&#039;t grow too attached to a card unless you&#039;re absolutely sure you need to use it soon to accomplish a task. If it&#039;s not helping you, get rid of it by summoning it, even if you can&#039;t trigger its effects, or discard it. The smaller your deck, the more precise your endgame play will be, as you will know with certainty what you will draw; and if you cannot score 9 points, you want to be the person who triggers the endgame by running out of cards. -- By discarding you can also get rid of a flare that is hard to trigger, or Legends that are not useful. It also improves the precision of your endgame if you use the opportunity to place one or two cards on the bottom of your deck.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;Anticipate key cards in your deck.&#039;&#039; Don&#039;t just set up existing patterns in your hand (though do that too!); if you know a useful card is in your deck, try to keep a few pieces on the board that will help you achieve that pattern. It might be the next card you draw. (E.g. if you have the Highland deck, try to maintain a few pieces at the corners of a green square in anticipation of Ritual Master, or a bow-shape for Warlord / Eagle Lord.) When you&#039;re just starting out, it is impossible to remember all the cards, but be aware of the most powerful and disruptive ones: Hypnotist and Bomb (North/South Empire); Blood Shaman, Werewolf, and Ritual Master (Highland); Forest Ancient (Sylvan); Everfrost Sentinel; and Leviathan and Time Elemental (Legends).&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;Track the cards.&#039;&#039; If you are playing a turn-based game, use the Notes feature of BGA to keep track of both your cards and your opponent&#039;s.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;Learn the decks and Legendary Beings.&#039;&#039; To reiterate: as a beginner, &#039;&#039;do not worry about memorizing every single card!&#039;&#039; But eventually you will need to be able to recognize patterns that your opponent is trying to form, and know what&#039;s coming up in your own deck that might be useful.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;3) Flares&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;THE GOLDEN RULE: Flares are not a catch-up mechanism. They penalize bad, aggressive play, rather than compensating players who are losing.&#039;&#039; Grasping this point is essential to playing Tash-Kalar well.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;Be wary of flares.&#039;&#039; A typical beginner&#039;s mistake is to assume that accumulating more pieces than your opponent, and destroying many of your opponent&#039;s pieces, is a good idea. But while it may work occasionally, &#039;&#039;&#039;this brute-force approach will usually lose the game against a competent player,&#039;&#039;&#039; because it gives them the opportunity to flare every turn. Extra actions are extremely valuable in Tash-Kalar--often they are the deciding factor in claiming a task or totally reshaping the board--so don&#039;t let your opponent get flares easily. If you are ahead in piece-count, try to stay ahead by a maximum of 2 heroic pieces and 3 pieces in total--this guarantees that only one flare (the 2/5 one) is playable. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;Don&#039;t be TOO cautious.&#039;&#039; You sometimes still need to risk a flare for the sake of scoring. However, if you must exceed the 2/3 limit, avoid triggering top and bottom flares at once. (The upper number on flares ranges from 2 to 5; the lower number from 4 to 6.) None of the bottom-4 flares are big game-changing ones; but several top-3 flares are powerful, so if you&#039;re going to risk triggering one, go ahead 2/4 rather than 3/3 by preference.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;Play your flare!&#039;&#039; If you can play it, the vast majority of the time you should. This is true even if it does nothing helpful--in that case, play it simply to discard it and get a more useful one in return.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;Discard a bad flare when possible.&#039;&#039; If you have a high-value flare (such as 4/6 or 5/5) that you can&#039;t trigger, and you&#039;re falling behind in the game, consider discarding in order to ditch the flare. In addition to refreshing your hand and hopefully landing you a more usable flare, the discard action means you put down one fewer piece on the turn, meaning that you&#039;re very likely to be able to play the new flare.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;4) Tasks, Legends, and Scoring&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;Prioritize 1- and 2-point tasks, not 3-pointers and Legends.&#039;&#039; In particular, Side Chain and Corner Chain are very difficult to achieve without an exorbitant cost; they should be late-game goals or threats, but never strive to score them early on at the expense of snapping up cheap tasks (a common beginner&#039;s mistake). Legends are good, but since the 1 point they give is no better than an easily achievable 1-point task, can be taken away from you, and can net a max of 3 VPs in total, they should not be a priority unless they help accomplish a task. Claim easy tasks before your opponent does, as they stack up quickly--in particular, never leave End of Legends, Heroic Destruction or Rainbow Domination unclaimed for long, as they are the easiest 2-point tasks to claim.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;Don&#039;t focus on destroying your opponent&#039;s legendary pieces.&#039;&#039; Unless the legendary piece is actually dangerous (e.g. Red/Green Legends is up for grabs), keep focused on claiming tasks not destroying it. Very few cards can even move it, so it&#039;ll probably just sit there anyway until you can deal with it. It&#039;s better to either summon your own Legend, work towards a task, or demolish their position. If you destroy the legendary piece without getting rid of their heroic pieces, your opponent will just summon up another anyway. Keep in mind that once they have 3 legendary pieces on board, they can&#039;t score any more from summoning another one. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;5) Opening Moves&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
In general (though this advice is dependent on your initial draw and the first tasks available), place your first pieces near the centre but somewhat off-centre, and in the vicinity of (rather than directly on) coloured squares. This maximizes control of the board, positional flexibility, and ability to engage in direct conflict or move away from it. Placing a common piece on a coloured square at the game&#039;s beginning is just asking for it to be destroyed; it is generally better to build towards summoning a heroic piece onto the square, which will be more resistant to attack and more capable of fulfilling tasks.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
If your hand is full of 2- and 3-piece patterns, being right next to your opponent&#039;s pieces is good, as you will be able to destroy their pieces easily. If it&#039;s full of 4- and 5-piece patterns, keep more distance at first.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;6) Patience&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Tash-Kalar games tend to have a dramatic mid-game &amp;quot;bounce&amp;quot;: it is very hard to hang on to an early lead, because the player in the lead will have typically grabbed all the tasks they can easily grab, used their best cards, and be on the verge of giving up flares. If you are behind, even by a substantial number of points, do not give in easily, especially since you will have a more precise sense of what&#039;s in your deck and your opponent&#039;s and can plan accordingly. If you are ahead, be wary: start reducing your piece-count, and if you have a strong lead, summon (or discard) Beings as much as possible to hasten the endgame.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== Cards ==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Here is a full list of all cards in Tash-Kalar&#039;s BGA implementation (numbers denote the pieces in the pattern):&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;IMPERIAL&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
* 2: Messenger, Swordmaster, Bomb&lt;br /&gt;
* 3: Chronicler, Herald, High Priestess, Summoner, Cannon, Assassin&lt;br /&gt;
* 4: Gryphon Rider, Knight, Master of Intrigue, Cavalry Captain, Infantry Captain, Champion, Time Mage, Gun Tower, Hypnotist&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;SYLVAN&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
* 2: Sapling, Kiskin Farseeders, Forest Wardens&lt;br /&gt;
* 3: Naiad, Charging Buck, Kiskin Spirit, Dryad, Forest Mystic, Sylvan Princess, Woodland Druid&lt;br /&gt;
* 4: Unicorn, Kiskin Boughrunner, Kiskin Leafsplitter, Centaur Spearman, Forest Ancient, Centaur Chieftain, Sylvan Queen, Tree Shepherd&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;HIGHLAND&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
* 2: Ritual Keeper, Wild Eagle, Clan Axeman&lt;br /&gt;
* 3: Dire Wolf, Clan Healer, Clan Guardian, Ritual Master, Hungry Bear&lt;br /&gt;
* 4: Wolf Rider, Mountain Troll, Hill Giant, Eagle Lord, War Summoner, War Drummer, Legend Slayer, Blood Shaman, Werewolf&lt;br /&gt;
* 5: Warlord&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;EVERFROST&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
* 2: Snow Fox, Crystal Mirror, Crystal Grower&lt;br /&gt;
* 3: Ice Princess, Royal Reindeer, Frostweave Illusionist, Frostweave Summoner, Frost Imp, Frozen Chest&lt;br /&gt;
* 4: Winter Whisperer, Glacier Giant, Ice Queen, Ice Wyvern, Everfrost Sentinel, Deathbringer, War Sled, Polar Bear, Snow Monster&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;LEGENDS&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
* Time Elemental, Earth Elemental, Fire Elemental, Storm Elemental, Leviathan, Hell Bull, Angel of Death, Two-Headed Dragon, Fire Dragon, Titan, Bone Catapult&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;FLARES&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Symbols:&lt;br /&gt;
* m = standard move; x = combat move&lt;br /&gt;
* ^ = standard leap; x^ = combat leap &lt;br /&gt;
* + = upgrade; A = gain action&lt;br /&gt;
* no sign = place&lt;br /&gt;
* H = heroic; C = common; P = any non-legendary piece&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Cards:&lt;br /&gt;
* 2 / 5 : ^C / A&lt;br /&gt;
* 3 / 4 : C / xP or mPP&lt;br /&gt;
* 3 / 5 : mCCC / A&lt;br /&gt;
* 3 / 6 : mC or +C / CC&lt;br /&gt;
* 3 / 6 : C / H&lt;br /&gt;
* 4 / 4 : C / C&lt;br /&gt;
* 4 / 4 : C or +C / x^C&lt;br /&gt;
* 4 / 6 : C / +C and A &lt;br /&gt;
* 4 / 5 : A / C&lt;br /&gt;
* 4 / 5 : C / C or convert enemy C&lt;br /&gt;
* 5 / 4 : H / mC xC&lt;br /&gt;
* 5 / 5 : CC / C&lt;/div&gt;</summary>
		<author><name>Nandblock</name></author>
	</entry>
	<entry>
		<id>https://gl.doc.boardgamearena.com/index.php?title=Tips_tashkalar&amp;diff=3111</id>
		<title>Tips tashkalar</title>
		<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="https://gl.doc.boardgamearena.com/index.php?title=Tips_tashkalar&amp;diff=3111"/>
		<updated>2018-07-14T20:18:51Z</updated>

		<summary type="html">&lt;p&gt;Nandblock: /* High Form Strategy */&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;hr /&gt;
&lt;div&gt;== High Form Strategy ==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;1) Board Management&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;Keep your piece-count down.&#039;&#039; If a piece of your own is not helping your position and you have a chance to destroy it, do so rather than destroying an enemy piece--this puts you rather than them closer to a flare. If you&#039;re ahead in the game and your piece count is high, consider discarding cards or summoning a being on top of your own piece (oversummoning) to avoid placing another piece on the board.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;Keep your pieces together.&#039;&#039; If your position is dispersed, those pieces will add to your piece-count, making it impossible to get a life-saving flare while being useless for summoning or claiming tasks.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;Place pieces on or around coloured squares by preference.&#039;&#039; Even if there&#039;s no coloured summoning/conquest task on the board, one will eventually pop up. (Caveat: do not casually leave pieces on red squares if you are playing against Highland and they haven&#039;t yet played Blood Shaman.)&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;Do not let your opponent set up camp far away from you.&#039;&#039; Make sure you are always able to destroy a piece or two of theirs.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;2) Hand Management&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;Play or discard cards rather than letting them go stale.&#039;&#039; Don&#039;t grow too attached to a card unless you&#039;re absolutely sure you need to use it soon to accomplish a task. If it&#039;s not helping you, get rid of it by summoning it, even if you can&#039;t trigger its effects, or discarding it. The smaller your deck, the more precise your endgame play will be, as you will know with certainty what you will draw; and if you cannot score 9 points, you want to be the person who triggers the endgame by running out of cards. -- By discarding you can also get rid of a flare that is hard to trigger, or Legends that are not useful. It also improves the precision of your endgame if you use the opportunity to place one or two cards on the bottom of your deck.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;Anticipate key cards in your deck.&#039;&#039; Don&#039;t just set up existing patterns in your hand (though do that too!); if you know a useful card is in your deck, try to keep a few pieces on the board that will help you achieve that pattern. It might be the next card you draw. (E.g. if you have the Highland deck, try to maintain a few pieces at the corners of a green square in anticipation of Ritual Master, or a bow-shape for Warlord / Eagle Lord.) When you&#039;re just starting out, it is impossible to remember all the cards, but be aware of the most powerful and disruptive ones: Hypnotist and Bomb (North/South Empire); Blood Shaman, Werewolf, and Ritual Master (Highland); Forest Ancient (Sylvan); Everfrost Sentinel; and Leviathan and Time Elemental (Legends).&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;Track the cards.&#039;&#039; If you are playing a turn-based game, use the Notes feature of BGA to keep track of both your cards and your opponent&#039;s.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;Learn the decks and Legendary Beings.&#039;&#039; To reiterate: as a beginner, &#039;&#039;do not worry about memorizing every single card!&#039;&#039; But eventually you will need to be able to recognize patterns that your opponent is trying to form, and know what&#039;s coming up in your own deck that might be useful.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;3) Flares&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;THE GOLDEN RULE: Flares are not a catch-up mechanism. They do not compensate players for being behind; instead, they penalize bad, overaggressive players. Remember: the goal of High Form is to gain points, not destroy the enemy!&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;Be wary of flares.&#039;&#039; A typical beginner&#039;s mistake is to assume that accumulating more pieces than your opponent, and destroying many of your opponent&#039;s pieces, is a good idea. But while it may work occasionally, &#039;&#039;&#039;this brute-force approach will usually lose the game against a competent player,&#039;&#039;&#039; because it gives them the opportunity to flare every turn. Extra actions are extremely valuable in Tash-Kalar--often they are the deciding factor in claiming a task or totally reshaping the board--so don&#039;t let your opponent get flares easily. If you are ahead in piece-count, try to stay ahead by a maximum of 2 heroic pieces and 3 pieces in total--this guarantees that only one flare (the 2/5 one) is playable. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;Don&#039;t be TOO cautious.&#039;&#039; You sometimes still need to risk a flare for the sake of scoring. However, if you must exceed the 2/3 limit, avoid triggering top and bottom flares at once. (The upper number on flares ranges from 2 to 5; the lower number from 4 to 6.) None of the bottom-4 flares are big game-changing ones; but several top-3 flares are powerful, so if you&#039;re going to risk triggering one, go ahead 2/4 rather than 3/3 by preference.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;Play your flare!&#039;&#039; If you can play it, the vast majority of the time you should. This is true even if it does nothing helpful--in that case, play it simply to discard it and get a more useful one in return.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;Discard a bad flare when possible.&#039;&#039; If you have a high-value flare (such as 4/6 or 5/5) that you can&#039;t trigger, and you&#039;re falling behind in the game, consider discarding in order to ditch the flare. In addition to refreshing your hand and hopefully landing you a more usable flare, the discard action means you put down one fewer piece on the turn, meaning that you&#039;re very likely to be able to play the new flare.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;4) Tasks, Legends, and Scoring&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;Prioritize 1- and 2-point tasks, not 3-pointers and Legends.&#039;&#039; In particular, Side Chain and Corner Chain are very difficult to achieve without an exorbitant cost; they should be late-game goals or threats, but never strive to score them early on at the expense of snapping up cheap tasks (a common beginner&#039;s mistake). Legends are good, but since the 1 point they give is no better than an easily achievable 1-point task, can be taken away from you, and can net a max of 3 VPs in total, they should not be a priority unless they help accomplish a task. Claim easy tasks before your opponent does, as they stack up quickly--in particular, never leave End of Legends, Heroic Destruction or Rainbow Domination unclaimed for long, as they are the easiest 2-point tasks to claim.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;Don&#039;t focus on destroying your opponent&#039;s legendary pieces.&#039;&#039; Unless the legendary piece is actually dangerous (e.g. Red/Green Legends is up for grabs), keep focused on claiming tasks not destroying it. Very few cards can even move it, so it&#039;ll probably just sit there anyway until you can deal with it. It&#039;s better to either summon your own Legend, work towards a task, or demolish their position. If you destroy the legendary piece without getting rid of their heroic pieces, your opponent will just summon up another anyway. Keep in mind that once they have 3 legendary pieces on board, they can&#039;t score any more from summoning another one. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;5) Opening Moves&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
In general (though this advice is dependent on your initial draw and the first tasks available), place your first pieces near the centre but somewhat off-centre, and in the vicinity of coloured squares. This maximizes control of the board, positional flexibility, and ability to engage in direct conflict or move away from it. If your hand is full of 2- and 3-piece patterns, being right next to your opponent&#039;s pieces is good, as you will be able to destroy their pieces easily. If it&#039;s full of 4- and 5-piece patterns, keep more distance at first.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;6) Patience&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Tash-Kalar games tend to have a dramatic mid-game &amp;quot;bounce&amp;quot;: it is very hard to hang on to an early lead, because the player in the lead will have typically grabbed all the tasks they can easily grab, used their best cards, and be on the verge of giving up flares. If you are behind, even by a substantial number of points, do not give in easily, especially since you will have a more precise sense of what&#039;s in your deck and your opponent&#039;s and can plan accordingly. If you are ahead, be wary: start reducing your piece-count, and if you have a strong lead, summon (or discard) Beings as much as possible to hasten the endgame.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== Cards ==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Here is a full list of all cards in Tash-Kalar&#039;s BGA implementation (numbers denote the pieces in the pattern):&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;IMPERIAL&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
* 2: Messenger, Swordmaster, Bomb&lt;br /&gt;
* 3: Chronicler, Herald, High Priestess, Summoner, Cannon, Assassin&lt;br /&gt;
* 4: Gryphon Rider, Knight, Master of Intrigue, Cavalry Captain, Infantry Captain, Champion, Time Mage, Gun Tower, Hypnotist&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;SYLVAN&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
* 2: Sapling, Kiskin Farseeders, Forest Wardens&lt;br /&gt;
* 3: Naiad, Charging Buck, Kiskin Spirit, Dryad, Forest Mystic, Sylvan Princess, Woodland Druid&lt;br /&gt;
* 4: Unicorn, Kiskin Boughrunner, Kiskin Leafsplitter, Centaur Spearman, Forest Ancient, Centaur Chieftain, Sylvan Queen, Tree Shepherd&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;HIGHLAND&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
* 2: Ritual Keeper, Wild Eagle, Clan Axeman&lt;br /&gt;
* 3: Dire Wolf, Clan Healer, Clan Guardian, Ritual Master, Hungry Bear&lt;br /&gt;
* 4: Wolf Rider, Mountain Troll, Hill Giant, Eagle Lord, War Summoner, War Drummer, Legend Slayer, Blood Shaman, Werewolf&lt;br /&gt;
* 5: Warlord&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;EVERFROST&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
* 2: Snow Fox, Crystal Mirror, Crystal Grower&lt;br /&gt;
* 3: Ice Princess, Royal Reindeer, Frostweave Illusionist, Frostweave Summoner, Frost Imp, Frozen Chest&lt;br /&gt;
* 4: Winter Whisperer, Glacier Giant, Ice Queen, Ice Wyvern, Everfrost Sentinel, Deathbringer, War Sled, Polar Bear, Snow Monster&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;LEGENDS&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
* Time Elemental, Earth Elemental, Fire Elemental, Storm Elemental, Leviathan, Hell Bull, Angel of Death, Two-Headed Dragon, Fire Dragon, Titan, Bone Catapult&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;FLARES&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Symbols:&lt;br /&gt;
* m = standard move; x = combat move&lt;br /&gt;
* ^ = standard leap; x^ = combat leap &lt;br /&gt;
* + = upgrade; A = gain action&lt;br /&gt;
* no sign = place&lt;br /&gt;
* H = heroic; C = common; P = any non-legendary piece&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Cards:&lt;br /&gt;
* 2 / 5 : ^C / A&lt;br /&gt;
* 3 / 4 : C / xP or mPP&lt;br /&gt;
* 3 / 5 : mCCC / A&lt;br /&gt;
* 3 / 6 : mC or +C / CC&lt;br /&gt;
* 3 / 6 : C / H&lt;br /&gt;
* 4 / 4 : C / C&lt;br /&gt;
* 4 / 4 : C or +C / x^C&lt;br /&gt;
* 4 / 6 : C / +C and A &lt;br /&gt;
* 4 / 5 : A / C&lt;br /&gt;
* 4 / 5 : C / C or convert enemy C&lt;br /&gt;
* 5 / 4 : H / mC xC&lt;br /&gt;
* 5 / 5 : CC / C&lt;/div&gt;</summary>
		<author><name>Nandblock</name></author>
	</entry>
	<entry>
		<id>https://gl.doc.boardgamearena.com/index.php?title=Tips_tashkalar&amp;diff=2898</id>
		<title>Tips tashkalar</title>
		<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="https://gl.doc.boardgamearena.com/index.php?title=Tips_tashkalar&amp;diff=2898"/>
		<updated>2018-02-21T22:30:53Z</updated>

		<summary type="html">&lt;p&gt;Nandblock: /* High Form Strategy */&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;hr /&gt;
&lt;div&gt;== High Form Strategy ==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;1) Board Management&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;Keep your piece-count down.&#039;&#039; If a piece of your own is not helping your position and you have a chance to destroy it, do so rather than destroying an enemy piece--this puts you rather than them closer to a flare. If you&#039;re ahead in the game and your piece count is high, consider discarding cards or summoning a being on top of your own piece (oversummoning) to avoid placing another piece on the board.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;Keep your pieces together.&#039;&#039; If your position is dispersed, those pieces will add to your piece-count, making it impossible to get a life-saving flare while being useless for summoning or claiming tasks.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;Place pieces on or around coloured squares by preference.&#039;&#039; Even if there&#039;s no coloured summoning/conquest task on the board, one will eventually pop up. (Caveat: do not casually leave pieces on red squares if you are playing against Highland and they haven&#039;t yet played Blood Shaman.)&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;Do not let your opponent set up camp far away from you.&#039;&#039; Make sure you are always able to destroy a piece or two of theirs.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;2) Hand Management&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;Play or discard cards rather than letting them go stale.&#039;&#039; Don&#039;t grow too attached to a card unless you&#039;re absolutely sure you need to use it soon to accomplish a task. If it&#039;s not helping you, get rid of it by summoning it, even if you can&#039;t trigger its effects, or discarding it. The smaller your deck, the more precise your endgame play will be, as you will know with certainty what you will draw; and if you cannot score 9 points, you want to be the person who triggers the endgame by running out of cards. -- By discarding you can also get rid of a flare that is hard to trigger, or Legends that are not useful. It also improves the precision of your endgame if you use the opportunity to place one or two cards on the bottom of your deck.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;Anticipate key cards in your deck.&#039;&#039; Don&#039;t just set up existing patterns in your hand (though do that too!); if you know a useful card is in your deck, try to keep a few pieces on the board that will help you achieve that pattern. It might be the next card you draw. (E.g. if you have the Highland deck, try to maintain a few pieces at the corners of a green square in anticipation of Ritual Master, or a bow-shape for Warlord / Eagle Lord.) When you&#039;re just starting out, it is impossible to remember all the cards, but be aware of the most powerful and disruptive ones: Hypnotist and Bomb (North/South Empire); Blood Shaman, Werewolf, and Ritual Master (Highland); Forest Ancient (Sylvan); Everfrost Sentinel; and Leviathan and Time Elemental (Legends).&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;Track the cards.&#039;&#039; If you are playing a turn-based game, use the Notes feature of BGA to keep track of both your cards and your opponent&#039;s.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;Learn the decks and Legendary Beings.&#039;&#039; To reiterate: as a beginner, &#039;&#039;do not worry about memorizing every single card!&#039;&#039; But eventually you will need to be able to recognize patterns that your opponent is trying to form, and know what&#039;s coming up in your own deck that might be useful.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;3) Flares&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;Be wary of flares.&#039;&#039; A typical beginner&#039;s mistake is to assume that accumulating more pieces than your opponent, and destroying many of your opponent&#039;s pieces, is a good idea. But while it may work occasionally, &#039;&#039;&#039;this brute-force approach will usually lose the game against a competent player,&#039;&#039;&#039; because it gives them the opportunity to flare every turn. Extra actions are extremely valuable in Tash-Kalar--often they are the deciding factor in claiming a task or totally reshaping the board--so don&#039;t let your opponent get flares easily. If you are ahead in piece-count, try to stay ahead by a maximum of 2 heroic pieces and 3 pieces in total--this guarantees that only one flare (the 2/5 one) is playable. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;Don&#039;t be TOO cautious.&#039;&#039; You sometimes still need to risk a flare for the sake of scoring. However, if you must exceed the 2/3 limit, avoid triggering top and bottom flares at once. (The upper number on flares ranges from 2 to 5; the lower number from 4 to 6.) None of the bottom-4 flares are big game-changing ones; but several top-3 flares are powerful, so if you&#039;re going to risk triggering one, go ahead 2/4 rather than 3/3 by preference.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;Play your flare!&#039;&#039; If you can play it, the vast majority of the time you should. This is true even if it does nothing helpful--in that case, play it simply to discard it and get a more useful one in return.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;Discard a bad flare when possible.&#039;&#039; If you have a high-value flare (such as 4/6 or 5/5) that you can&#039;t trigger, and you&#039;re falling behind in the game, consider discarding in order to ditch the flare. In addition to refreshing your hand and hopefully landing you a more usable flare, the discard action means you put down one fewer piece on the turn, meaning that you&#039;re very likely to be able to play the new flare.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;4) Tasks, Legends, and Scoring&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;Prioritize 1- and 2-point tasks, not 3-pointers and Legends.&#039;&#039; In particular, Side Chain and Corner Chain are very difficult to achieve without an exorbitant cost; they should be late-game goals or threats, but never strive to score them early on at the expense of snapping up cheap tasks (a common beginner&#039;s mistake). Legends are good, but since the 1 point they give is no better than an easily achievable 1-point task, can be taken away from you, and can net a max of 3 VPs in total, they should not be a priority unless they help accomplish a task. Claim easy tasks before your opponent does, as they stack up quickly--in particular, never leave End of Legends, Heroic Destruction or Rainbow Domination unclaimed for long, as they are the easiest 2-point tasks to claim.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;Don&#039;t focus on destroying your opponent&#039;s legendary pieces.&#039;&#039; Unless the legendary piece is actually dangerous (e.g. Red/Green Legends is up for grabs), keep focused on claiming tasks not destroying it. Very few cards can even move it, so it&#039;ll probably just sit there anyway until you can deal with it. It&#039;s better to either summon your own Legend, work towards a task, or demolish their position. If you destroy the legendary piece without getting rid of their heroic pieces, your opponent will just summon up another anyway. Keep in mind that once they have 3 legendary pieces on board, they can&#039;t score any more from summoning another one. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;5) Opening Moves&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
In general (though this advice is dependent on your initial draw and the first tasks available), place your first pieces near the centre but somewhat off-centre, and in the vicinity of coloured squares. This maximizes control of the board, positional flexibility, and ability to engage in direct conflict or move away from it. If your hand is full of 2- and 3-piece patterns, being right next to your opponent&#039;s pieces is good, as you will be able to destroy their pieces easily. If it&#039;s full of 4- and 5-piece patterns, keep more distance at first.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;6) Patience&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Tash-Kalar games tend to have a dramatic mid-game &amp;quot;bounce&amp;quot;: it is very hard to hang on to an early lead, because the player in the lead will have typically grabbed all the tasks they can easily grab, used their best cards, and be on the verge of giving up flares. If you are behind, even by a substantial number of points, do not give in easily, especially since you will have a more precise sense of what&#039;s in your deck and your opponent&#039;s and can plan accordingly. If you are ahead, be wary: start reducing your piece-count, and if you have a strong lead, summon (or discard) Beings as much as possible to hasten the endgame.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== Cards ==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Here is a full list of all cards in Tash-Kalar&#039;s BGA implementation (numbers denote the pieces in the pattern):&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;IMPERIAL&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
* 2: Messenger, Swordmaster, Bomb&lt;br /&gt;
* 3: Chronicler, Herald, High Priestess, Summoner, Cannon, Assassin&lt;br /&gt;
* 4: Gryphon Rider, Knight, Master of Intrigue, Cavalry Captain, Infantry Captain, Champion, Time Mage, Gun Tower, Hypnotist&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;SYLVAN&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
* 2: Sapling, Kiskin Farseeders, Forest Wardens&lt;br /&gt;
* 3: Naiad, Charging Buck, Kiskin Spirit, Dryad, Forest Mystic, Sylvan Princess, Woodland Druid&lt;br /&gt;
* 4: Unicorn, Kiskin Boughrunner, Kiskin Leafsplitter, Centaur Spearman, Forest Ancient, Centaur Chieftain, Sylvan Queen, Tree Shepherd&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;HIGHLAND&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
* 2: Ritual Keeper, Wild Eagle, Clan Axeman&lt;br /&gt;
* 3: Dire Wolf, Clan Healer, Clan Guardian, Ritual Master, Hungry Bear&lt;br /&gt;
* 4: Wolf Rider, Mountain Troll, Hill Giant, Eagle Lord, War Summoner, War Drummer, Legend Slayer, Blood Shaman, Werewolf&lt;br /&gt;
* 5: Warlord&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;EVERFROST&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
* 2: Snow Fox, Crystal Mirror, Crystal Grower&lt;br /&gt;
* 3: Ice Princess, Royal Reindeer, Frostweave Illusionist, Frostweave Summoner, Frost Imp, Frozen Chest&lt;br /&gt;
* 4: Winter Whisperer, Glacier Giant, Ice Queen, Ice Wyvern, Everfrost Sentinel, Deathbringer, War Sled, Polar Bear, Snow Monster&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;LEGENDS&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
* Time Elemental, Earth Elemental, Fire Elemental, Storm Elemental, Leviathan, Hell Bull, Angel of Death, Two-Headed Dragon, Fire Dragon, Titan, Bone Catapult&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;FLARES&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Symbols:&lt;br /&gt;
* m = standard move; x = combat move&lt;br /&gt;
* ^ = standard leap; x^ = combat leap &lt;br /&gt;
* + = upgrade; A = gain action&lt;br /&gt;
* no sign = place&lt;br /&gt;
* H = heroic; C = common; P = any non-legendary piece&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Cards:&lt;br /&gt;
* 2 / 5 : ^C / A&lt;br /&gt;
* 3 / 4 : C / xP or mPP&lt;br /&gt;
* 3 / 5 : mCCC / A&lt;br /&gt;
* 3 / 6 : mC or +C / CC&lt;br /&gt;
* 3 / 6 : C / H&lt;br /&gt;
* 4 / 4 : C / C&lt;br /&gt;
* 4 / 4 : C or +C / x^C&lt;br /&gt;
* 4 / 6 : C / +C and A &lt;br /&gt;
* 4 / 5 : A / C&lt;br /&gt;
* 4 / 5 : C / C or convert enemy C&lt;br /&gt;
* 5 / 4 : H / mC xC&lt;br /&gt;
* 5 / 5 : CC / C&lt;/div&gt;</summary>
		<author><name>Nandblock</name></author>
	</entry>
	<entry>
		<id>https://gl.doc.boardgamearena.com/index.php?title=Tips_tashkalar&amp;diff=2750</id>
		<title>Tips tashkalar</title>
		<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="https://gl.doc.boardgamearena.com/index.php?title=Tips_tashkalar&amp;diff=2750"/>
		<updated>2017-11-06T18:18:14Z</updated>

		<summary type="html">&lt;p&gt;Nandblock: /* High Form Strategy */&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;hr /&gt;
&lt;div&gt;== High Form Strategy ==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;1) Board Management&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;Keep your piece-count down.&#039;&#039; If a piece of your own is not helping your position and you have a chance to destroy it, do so rather than destroying an enemy piece--this puts you rather than them closer to a flare. If you&#039;re ahead in the game and your piece count is high, consider discarding cards or summoning a being on top of your own piece (oversummoning) to avoid placing another piece on the board.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;Keep your pieces together.&#039;&#039; If your position is dispersed, those pieces will add to your piece-count, making it impossible to get a life-saving flare while being useless for summoning or claiming tasks.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;Place pieces on or around coloured squares by preference.&#039;&#039; Even if there&#039;s no coloured summoning/conquest task on the board, one will eventually pop up. (Caveat: do not casually leave pieces on red squares if you are playing against Highland and they haven&#039;t yet played Blood Shaman.)&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;Do not let your opponent set up camp far away from you.&#039;&#039; Make sure you are always able to destroy a piece or two of theirs.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;2) Hand Management&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;Play or discard cards rather than letting them go stale.&#039;&#039; Don&#039;t grow too attached to a card unless you&#039;re absolutely sure you need to use it soon to accomplish a task. If it&#039;s not helping you, get rid of it by summoning it, even if you can&#039;t trigger its effects, or discarding it. The smaller your deck, the more precise your endgame play will be, as you will know with certainty what you will draw; and if you cannot score 9 points, you want to be the person who triggers the endgame by running out of cards. -- By discarding you can also get rid of a flare that is hard to trigger, or Legends that are not useful. It also improves the precision of your endgame if you use the opportunity to place one or two cards on the bottom of your deck.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;Anticipate key cards in your deck.&#039;&#039; Don&#039;t just set up existing patterns in your hand (though do that too!); if you know a useful card is in your deck, try to keep a few pieces on the board that will help you achieve that pattern. It might be the next card you draw. (E.g. if you have the Highland deck, try to maintain a few pieces at the corners of a green square in anticipation of Ritual Master, or a bow-shape for Warlord / Eagle Lord.) When you&#039;re just starting out, it is impossible to remember all the cards, but be aware of the most powerful and disruptive ones: Hypnotist and Bomb (North/South Empire); Blood Shaman, Werewolf, and Ritual Master (Highland); Forest Ancient (Sylvan); Everfrost Sentinel; and Leviathan and Time Elemental (Legends).&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;Track the cards.&#039;&#039; If you are playing a turn-based game, use the Notes feature of BGA to keep track of both your cards and your opponent&#039;s.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;Learn the decks and Legendary Beings.&#039;&#039; To reiterate: as a beginner, &#039;&#039;do not worry about memorizing every single card!&#039;&#039; But eventually you will need to be able to recognize patterns that your opponent is trying to form, and know what&#039;s coming up in your own deck that might be useful.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;3) Flares&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;Be wary of flares.&#039;&#039; A typical beginner&#039;s mistake is to assume that accumulating more pieces than your opponent, and destroying many of your opponent&#039;s pieces, is a good idea. But while it may work occasionally, &#039;&#039;&#039;this brute-force approach will usually lose the game against a competent player,&#039;&#039;&#039; because it gives them the opportunity to flare every turn. Extra actions are extremely valuable in Tash-Kalar--often they are the deciding factor in claiming a task or totally reshaping the board--so don&#039;t let your opponent get flares easily. If you are ahead in piece-count, try to stay ahead by a maximum of 2 heroic pieces and 3 pieces in total--this guarantees that only one flare (the 2/5 one) is playable. If you must exceed that limit, avoid triggering top and bottom flares at once. (The upper number on flares ranges from 2 to 5; the lower number from 4 to 6.) None of the bottom-4 flares are big game-changing ones; but several top-3 flares are powerful, so if you&#039;re going to risk triggering one, go ahead 2/4 rather than 3/3 by preference.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;Play your flare!&#039;&#039; If you can play it, the vast majority of the time you should. This is true even if it does nothing helpful--in that case, play it simply to discard it and get a more useful one in return.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;Discard a bad flare when possible.&#039;&#039; If you have a high-value flare (such as 4/6 or 5/5) that you can&#039;t trigger, and you&#039;re falling behind in the game, consider discarding in order to ditch the flare. In addition to refreshing your hand and hopefully landing you a more usable flare, the discard action means you put down one fewer piece on the turn, meaning that you&#039;re very likely to be able to play the new flare.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;4) Tasks, Legends, and Scoring&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;Prioritize 1- and 2-point tasks, not 3-pointers and Legends.&#039;&#039; In particular, Side Chain and Corner Chain are very difficult to achieve without an exorbitant cost; they should be late-game goals, but never strive to score them early on (a common beginner&#039;s mistake). Legends are good, but since the 1 point they give is no better than an easily achievable 1-point task, can be taken away from you, and can net a max of 3 VPs in total, they should not be a priority unless they help accomplish a task. You need to claim easy tasks before your opponent does, as they stack up quickly--in particular, never leave End of Legends, Heroic Destruction or Rainbow Domination unclaimed for long, as they are the easiest 2-point tasks to claim.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;5) Opening Moves&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
In general (though this advice is dependent on your initial draw and the first tasks available), place your first pieces near the centre but somewhat off-centre, and in the vicinity of coloured squares. This maximizes control of the board, positional flexibility, and ability to engage in direct conflict or move away from it. If your hand is full of 2- and 3-piece patterns, being right next to your opponent&#039;s pieces is good, as you will be able to destroy their pieces easily. If it&#039;s full of 4- and 5-piece patterns, keep more distance at first.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;6) Patience&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Tash-Kalar games tend to have a dramatic mid-game &amp;quot;bounce&amp;quot;: it is very hard to hang on to an early lead, because the player in the lead will have typically grabbed all the tasks they can easily grab, used their best cards, and be on the verge of giving up flares. If you are behind, even by a substantial number of points, do not give in easily, especially since you will have a more precise sense of what&#039;s in your deck and your opponent&#039;s and can plan accordingly. If you are ahead, be wary: start reducing your piece-count, and if you have a strong lead, summon (or discard) Beings as much as possible to hasten the endgame.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== Cards ==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Here is a full list of all cards in Tash-Kalar&#039;s BGA implementation (numbers denote the pieces in the pattern):&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;IMPERIAL&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
* 2: Messenger, Swordmaster, Bomb&lt;br /&gt;
* 3: Chronicler, Herald, High Priestess, Summoner, Cannon, Assassin&lt;br /&gt;
* 4: Gryphon Rider, Knight, Master of Intrigue, Cavalry Captain, Infantry Captain, Champion, Time Mage, Gun Tower, Hypnotist&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;SYLVAN&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
* 2: Sapling, Kiskin Farseeders, Forest Wardens&lt;br /&gt;
* 3: Naiad, Charging Buck, Kiskin Spirit, Dryad, Forest Mystic, Sylvan Princess, Woodland Druid&lt;br /&gt;
* 4: Unicorn, Kiskin Boughrunner, Kiskin Leafsplitter, Centaur Spearman, Forest Ancient, Centaur Chieftain, Sylvan Queen, Tree Shepherd&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;HIGHLAND&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
* 2: Ritual Keeper, Wild Eagle, Clan Axeman&lt;br /&gt;
* 3: Dire Wolf, Clan Healer, Clan Guardian, Ritual Master, Hungry Bear&lt;br /&gt;
* 4: Wolf Rider, Mountain Troll, Hill Giant, Eagle Lord, War Summoner, War Drummer, Legend Slayer, Blood Shaman, Werewolf&lt;br /&gt;
* 5: Warlord&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;EVERFROST&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
* 2: Snow Fox, Crystal Mirror, Crystal Grower&lt;br /&gt;
* 3: Ice Princess, Royal Reindeer, Frostweave Illusionist, Frostweave Summoner, Frost Imp, Frozen Chest&lt;br /&gt;
* 4: Winter Whisperer, Glacier Giant, Ice Queen, Ice Wyvern, Everfrost Sentinel, Deathbringer, War Sled, Polar Bear, Snow Monster&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;LEGENDS&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
* Time Elemental, Earth Elemental, Fire Elemental, Storm Elemental, Leviathan, Hell Bull, Angel of Death, Two-Headed Dragon, Fire Dragon, Titan, Bone Catapult&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;FLARES&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Symbols:&lt;br /&gt;
* m = standard move; x = combat move&lt;br /&gt;
* ^ = standard leap; x^ = combat leap &lt;br /&gt;
* + = upgrade; A = gain action&lt;br /&gt;
* no sign = place&lt;br /&gt;
* H = heroic; C = common; P = any non-legendary piece&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Cards:&lt;br /&gt;
* 2 / 5 : ^C / A&lt;br /&gt;
* 3 / 4 : C / xP or mPP&lt;br /&gt;
* 3 / 5 : mCCC / A&lt;br /&gt;
* 3 / 6 : mC or +C / CC&lt;br /&gt;
* 3 / 6 : C / H&lt;br /&gt;
* 4 / 4 : C / C&lt;br /&gt;
* 4 / 4 : C or +C / x^C&lt;br /&gt;
* 4 / 6 : C / +C and A &lt;br /&gt;
* 4 / 5 : A / C&lt;br /&gt;
* 4 / 5 : C / C or convert enemy C&lt;br /&gt;
* 5 / 4 : H / mC xC&lt;br /&gt;
* 5 / 5 : CC / C&lt;/div&gt;</summary>
		<author><name>Nandblock</name></author>
	</entry>
	<entry>
		<id>https://gl.doc.boardgamearena.com/index.php?title=Tips_tashkalar&amp;diff=2749</id>
		<title>Tips tashkalar</title>
		<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="https://gl.doc.boardgamearena.com/index.php?title=Tips_tashkalar&amp;diff=2749"/>
		<updated>2017-11-06T18:13:18Z</updated>

		<summary type="html">&lt;p&gt;Nandblock: /* High Form Strategy */&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;hr /&gt;
&lt;div&gt;== High Form Strategy ==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;1) Board Management&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;Keep your piece-count down.&#039;&#039; If a piece of your own is not helping your position and you have a chance to destroy it, do so rather than destroying an enemy piece--this puts you rather than them closer to a flare. If you&#039;re ahead in the game and your piece count is high, consider discarding cards or summoning a being on top of your own piece (oversummoning) to avoid placing another piece on the board.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;Keep your pieces together.&#039;&#039; If your position is dispersed, those pieces will add to your piece-count, making it impossible to get a life-saving flare while being useless for summoning or claiming tasks.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;Place pieces on or around coloured squares by preference.&#039;&#039; Even if there&#039;s no coloured summoning/conquest task on the board, one will eventually pop up. (Caveat: do not casually leave pieces on red squares if you are playing against Highland and they haven&#039;t yet played Blood Shaman.)&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;Do not let your opponent set up camp far away from you.&#039;&#039; Make sure you are always able to destroy a piece or two of theirs.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;2) Hand Management&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;Play or discard cards rather than letting them go stale.&#039;&#039; Don&#039;t grow too attached to a card unless you&#039;re absolutely sure you need to use it soon to accomplish a task. If it&#039;s not helping you, get rid of it by summoning it, even if you can&#039;t trigger its effects, or discarding it. The smaller your deck, the more precise your endgame play will be, as you will know with certainty what you will draw; and if you cannot score 9 points, you want to be the person who triggers the endgame by running out of cards. -- By discarding you can also get rid of a flare that is hard to trigger, or Legends that are not useful. It also improves the precision of your endgame if you use the opportunity to place one or two cards on the bottom of your deck.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;Anticipate key cards in your deck.&#039;&#039; Don&#039;t just set up existing patterns in your hand (though do that too!); if you know a useful card is in your deck, try to keep a few pieces on the board that will help you achieve that pattern. It might be the next card you draw. (E.g. if you have the Highland deck, try to maintain a few pieces at the corners of a green square in anticipation of Ritual Master, or a bow-shape for Warlord / Eagle Lord.) When you&#039;re just starting out, it is impossible to remember all the cards, but be aware of the most powerful and disruptive ones: Hypnotist and Bomb (North/South Empire); Blood Shaman, Werewolf, and Ritual Master (Highland); Forest Ancient (Sylvan); Everfrost Sentinel; and Leviathan and Time Elemental (Legends).&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;Track the cards.&#039;&#039; If you are playing a turn-based game, use the Notes feature of BGA to keep track of both your cards and your opponent&#039;s.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;Learn the decks and Legendary Beings.&#039;&#039; To reiterate: as a beginner, &#039;&#039;do not worry about memorizing every single card!&#039;&#039; But eventually you will need to be able to recognize patterns that your opponent is trying to form, and know what&#039;s coming up in your own deck that might be useful.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;3) Flares&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;Be wary of flares.&#039;&#039; A typical beginner&#039;s mistake is to assume that accumulating more pieces than your opponent, and destroying many of your opponent&#039;s pieces, is a good idea. But while it may work occasionally, &#039;&#039;&#039;this brute-force approach will usually lose the game against a competent player,&#039;&#039;&#039; because it gives them the opportunity to flare every turn. Extra actions are extremely valuable in Tash-Kalar--often they are the deciding factor in claiming a task or totally reshaping the board--so don&#039;t let your opponent get flares easily. If you are ahead in piece-count, try to stay ahead by a maximum of 2 heroic pieces and 3 pieces in total--this guarantees that only one flare (the 2/5 one) is playable. If you must exceed that limit, avoid triggering top and bottom flares at once. (The upper number on flares ranges from 2 to 5; the lower number from 4 to 6.) None of the bottom-4 flares are big game-changing ones; but several top-3 flares are powerful, so if you&#039;re going to risk triggering one, go ahead 2/4 rather than 3/3 by preference.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;Play your flare!&#039;&#039; If you can play it, the vast majority of the time you should. This is true even if it does nothing helpful--in that case, play it simply to discard it and get a more useful one in return.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;Discard a bad flare when possible.&#039;&#039; If you have a high-value flare (such as 4/6 or 5/5) that you can&#039;t trigger, and you&#039;re falling behind in the game, consider discarding in order to ditch the flare. In addition to refreshing your hand and hopefully landing you a more usable flare, the discard action means you put down one fewer piece on the turn, meaning that you&#039;re very likely to be able to play the new flare.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;4) Tasks, Legends, and Scoring&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;Prioritize 1- and 2-point tasks, not 3-pointers and Legends.&#039;&#039; In particular, Side Chain and Corner Chain are very difficult to achieve without an exorbitant cost. Legends are good but since the 1 point they give is no better than an easily achievable 1-point task, and can be taken away from you, they should not be a priority unless they help accomplish a task. You need to claim easy tasks before your opponent does, as they stack up quickly--in particular, never leave End of Legends, Heroic Destruction or Rainbow Domination unclaimed for long, as they are the easiest 2-point tasks to claim.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;5) Opening Moves&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
In general (though this advice is dependent on your initial draw and the first tasks available), place your first pieces near the centre but somewhat off-centre, and in the vicinity of coloured squares. This maximizes control of the board, positional flexibility, and ability to engage in direct conflict or move away from it. If your hand is full of 2- and 3-piece patterns, being right next to your opponent&#039;s pieces is good, as you will be able to destroy their pieces easily. If it&#039;s full of 4- and 5-piece patterns, keep more distance at first.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;6) Patience&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Tash-Kalar games tend to have a dramatic mid-game &amp;quot;bounce&amp;quot;: it is very hard to hang on to an early lead, because the player in the lead will have typically grabbed all the tasks they can easily grab, used their best cards, and be on the verge of giving up flares. If you are behind, even by a substantial number of points, do not give in easily, especially since you will have a more precise sense of what&#039;s in your deck and your opponent&#039;s and can plan accordingly. If you are ahead, be wary: start reducing your piece-count, and if you have a strong lead, summon (or discard) Beings as much as possible to hasten the endgame.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== Cards ==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Here is a full list of all cards in Tash-Kalar&#039;s BGA implementation (numbers denote the pieces in the pattern):&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;IMPERIAL&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
* 2: Messenger, Swordmaster, Bomb&lt;br /&gt;
* 3: Chronicler, Herald, High Priestess, Summoner, Cannon, Assassin&lt;br /&gt;
* 4: Gryphon Rider, Knight, Master of Intrigue, Cavalry Captain, Infantry Captain, Champion, Time Mage, Gun Tower, Hypnotist&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;SYLVAN&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
* 2: Sapling, Kiskin Farseeders, Forest Wardens&lt;br /&gt;
* 3: Naiad, Charging Buck, Kiskin Spirit, Dryad, Forest Mystic, Sylvan Princess, Woodland Druid&lt;br /&gt;
* 4: Unicorn, Kiskin Boughrunner, Kiskin Leafsplitter, Centaur Spearman, Forest Ancient, Centaur Chieftain, Sylvan Queen, Tree Shepherd&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;HIGHLAND&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
* 2: Ritual Keeper, Wild Eagle, Clan Axeman&lt;br /&gt;
* 3: Dire Wolf, Clan Healer, Clan Guardian, Ritual Master, Hungry Bear&lt;br /&gt;
* 4: Wolf Rider, Mountain Troll, Hill Giant, Eagle Lord, War Summoner, War Drummer, Legend Slayer, Blood Shaman, Werewolf&lt;br /&gt;
* 5: Warlord&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;EVERFROST&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
* 2: Snow Fox, Crystal Mirror, Crystal Grower&lt;br /&gt;
* 3: Ice Princess, Royal Reindeer, Frostweave Illusionist, Frostweave Summoner, Frost Imp, Frozen Chest&lt;br /&gt;
* 4: Winter Whisperer, Glacier Giant, Ice Queen, Ice Wyvern, Everfrost Sentinel, Deathbringer, War Sled, Polar Bear, Snow Monster&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;LEGENDS&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
* Time Elemental, Earth Elemental, Fire Elemental, Storm Elemental, Leviathan, Hell Bull, Angel of Death, Two-Headed Dragon, Fire Dragon, Titan, Bone Catapult&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;FLARES&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Symbols:&lt;br /&gt;
* m = standard move; x = combat move&lt;br /&gt;
* ^ = standard leap; x^ = combat leap &lt;br /&gt;
* + = upgrade; A = gain action&lt;br /&gt;
* no sign = place&lt;br /&gt;
* H = heroic; C = common; P = any non-legendary piece&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Cards:&lt;br /&gt;
* 2 / 5 : ^C / A&lt;br /&gt;
* 3 / 4 : C / xP or mPP&lt;br /&gt;
* 3 / 5 : mCCC / A&lt;br /&gt;
* 3 / 6 : mC or +C / CC&lt;br /&gt;
* 3 / 6 : C / H&lt;br /&gt;
* 4 / 4 : C / C&lt;br /&gt;
* 4 / 4 : C or +C / x^C&lt;br /&gt;
* 4 / 6 : C / +C and A &lt;br /&gt;
* 4 / 5 : A / C&lt;br /&gt;
* 4 / 5 : C / C or convert enemy C&lt;br /&gt;
* 5 / 4 : H / mC xC&lt;br /&gt;
* 5 / 5 : CC / C&lt;/div&gt;</summary>
		<author><name>Nandblock</name></author>
	</entry>
	<entry>
		<id>https://gl.doc.boardgamearena.com/index.php?title=Tips_tashkalar&amp;diff=2746</id>
		<title>Tips tashkalar</title>
		<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="https://gl.doc.boardgamearena.com/index.php?title=Tips_tashkalar&amp;diff=2746"/>
		<updated>2017-11-04T20:28:44Z</updated>

		<summary type="html">&lt;p&gt;Nandblock: /* High Form Strategy */&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;hr /&gt;
&lt;div&gt;== High Form Strategy ==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;1) Board Management&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;Keep your piece-count down.&#039;&#039; If a piece of your own is not helping your position and you have a chance to destroy it, do so rather than destroying an enemy piece--this puts you rather than them closer to a flare. If you&#039;re ahead in the game and your piece count is high, consider discarding cards or summoning a being on top of your own piece (oversummoning) to avoid placing another piece on the board.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;Keep your pieces together.&#039;&#039; If your position is dispersed, those pieces will add to your piece-count, making it impossible to get a life-saving flare while being useless for summoning or claiming tasks.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;Place pieces on or around coloured squares by preference.&#039;&#039; Even if there&#039;s no coloured summoning/conquest task on the board, one will eventually pop up. (Caveat: do not casually leave pieces on red squares if you are playing against Highland and they haven&#039;t yet played Blood Shaman.)&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;Do not let your opponent set up camp far away from you.&#039;&#039; Make sure you are always able to destroy a piece or two of theirs.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;2) Hand Management&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;Play or discard cards rather than letting them go stale.&#039;&#039; Don&#039;t grow too attached to a card unless you&#039;re absolutely sure you need to use it soon to accomplish a task. If it&#039;s not helping you, get rid of it by summoning it, even if you can&#039;t trigger its effects, or discarding it. The smaller your deck, the more precise your endgame play will be, as you will know with certainty what you will draw; and if you cannot score 9 points, you want to be the person who triggers the endgame by running out of cards. -- By discarding you can also get rid of a flare that is hard to trigger, or Legends that are not useful. It also improves the precision of your endgame if you use the opportunity to place one or two cards on the bottom of your deck.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;Anticipate key cards in your deck.&#039;&#039; Don&#039;t just set up existing patterns in your hand (though do that too!); if you know a useful card is in your deck, try to keep a few pieces on the board that will help you achieve that pattern. It might be the next card you draw. (E.g. if you have the Highland deck, try to maintain a few pieces at the corners of a green square in anticipation of Ritual Master, or a bow-shape for Warlord / Eagle Lord.) When you&#039;re just starting out, it is impossible to remember all the cards, but be aware of the most powerful and disruptive ones: Hypnotist and Bomb (North/South Empire); Everfrost Sentinel; Blood Shaman and Ritual Master (Highland); Forest Ancient (Sylvan); and Leviathan and Time Elemental (Legends).&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;Track the cards.&#039;&#039; If you are playing a turn-based game, use the Notes feature of BGA to keep track of both your cards and your opponent&#039;s.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;Learn the decks and Legendary Beings.&#039;&#039; To reiterate: as a beginner, &#039;&#039;do not worry about memorizing every single card!&#039;&#039; But eventually you will need to be able to recognize patterns that your opponent is trying to form, and know what&#039;s coming up in your own deck that might be useful.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;3) Flares&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;Be wary of flares.&#039;&#039; A typical beginner&#039;s mistake is to assume that accumulating more pieces than your opponent, and destroying many of your opponent&#039;s pieces, is a good idea. But while it may work occasionally, &#039;&#039;&#039;this brute-force approach will usually lose the game against a competent player,&#039;&#039;&#039; because it gives them the opportunity to flare every turn. Extra actions are extremely valuable in Tash-Kalar--often they are the deciding factor in claiming a task or totally reshaping the board--so don&#039;t let your opponent get flares easily. If you are ahead in piece-count, try to stay ahead by a maximum of 2 heroic pieces and 3 pieces in total--this guarantees that only one flare (the 2/5 one) is playable. If you must exceed that limit, avoid triggering top and bottom flares at once. (The upper number on flares ranges from 2 to 5; the lower number from 4 to 6.) None of the bottom-4 flares are big game-changing ones; but several top-3 flares are powerful, so if you&#039;re going to risk triggering one, go ahead 2/4 rather than 3/3 by preference.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;Play your flare!&#039;&#039; If you can play it, the vast majority of the time you should. This is true even if it does nothing helpful--in that case, play it simply to discard it and get a more useful one in return.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;Discard a bad flare when possible.&#039;&#039; If you have a high-value flare (such as 4/6 or 5/5) that you can&#039;t trigger, and you&#039;re falling behind in the game, consider discarding in order to ditch the flare. In addition to refreshing your hand and hopefully landing you a more usable flare, the discard action means you put down one fewer piece on the turn, meaning that you&#039;re very likely to be able to play the new flare.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;4) Tasks, Legends, and Scoring&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;Prioritize 1- and 2-point tasks, not 3-pointers and Legends.&#039;&#039; In particular, Side Chain and Corner Chain are very difficult to achieve without an exorbitant cost. Legends are good but since the 1 point they give is no better than an easily achievable 1-point task, and can be taken away from you, they should not be a priority unless they help accomplish a task. You need to claim easy tasks before your opponent does, as they stack up quickly--in particular, never leave End of Legends, Heroic Destruction or Rainbow Domination unclaimed for long, as they are the easiest 2-point tasks to claim.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;5) Opening Moves&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
In general (though this advice is dependent on your initial draw and the first tasks available), place your first pieces near the centre but somewhat off-centre, and in the vicinity of coloured squares. This maximizes control of the board, positional flexibility, and ability to engage in direct conflict or move away from it. If your hand is full of 2- and 3-piece patterns, being right next to your opponent&#039;s pieces is good, as you will be able to destroy their pieces easily. If it&#039;s full of 4- and 5-piece patterns, keep more distance at first.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;6) Patience&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Tash-Kalar games tend to have a dramatic mid-game &amp;quot;bounce&amp;quot;: it is very hard to hang on to an early lead, because the player in the lead will have typically grabbed all the tasks they can easily grab, used their best cards, and be on the verge of giving up flares. If you are behind, even by a substantial number of points, do not give in easily, especially since you will have a more precise sense of what&#039;s in your deck and your opponent&#039;s and can plan accordingly. If you are ahead, be wary: start reducing your piece-count, and if you have a strong lead, summon (or discard) Beings as much as possible to hasten the endgame.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== Cards ==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Here is a full list of all cards in Tash-Kalar&#039;s BGA implementation (numbers denote the pieces in the pattern):&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;IMPERIAL&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
* 2: Messenger, Swordmaster, Bomb&lt;br /&gt;
* 3: Chronicler, Herald, High Priestess, Summoner, Cannon, Assassin&lt;br /&gt;
* 4: Gryphon Rider, Knight, Master of Intrigue, Cavalry Captain, Infantry Captain, Champion, Time Mage, Gun Tower, Hypnotist&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;SYLVAN&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
* 2: Sapling, Kiskin Farseeders, Forest Wardens&lt;br /&gt;
* 3: Naiad, Charging Buck, Kiskin Spirit, Dryad, Forest Mystic, Sylvan Princess, Woodland Druid&lt;br /&gt;
* 4: Unicorn, Kiskin Boughrunner, Kiskin Leafsplitter, Centaur Spearman, Forest Ancient, Centaur Chieftain, Sylvan Queen, Tree Shepherd&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;HIGHLAND&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
* 2: Ritual Keeper, Wild Eagle, Clan Axeman&lt;br /&gt;
* 3: Dire Wolf, Clan Healer, Clan Guardian, Ritual Master, Hungry Bear&lt;br /&gt;
* 4: Wolf Rider, Mountain Troll, Hill Giant, Eagle Lord, War Summoner, War Drummer, Legend Slayer, Blood Shaman, Werewolf&lt;br /&gt;
* 5: Warlord&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;EVERFROST&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
* 2: Snow Fox, Crystal Mirror, Crystal Grower&lt;br /&gt;
* 3: Ice Princess, Royal Reindeer, Frostweave Illusionist, Frostweave Summoner, Frost Imp, Frozen Chest&lt;br /&gt;
* 4: Winter Whisperer, Glacier Giant, Ice Queen, Ice Wyvern, Everfrost Sentinel, Deathbringer, War Sled, Polar Bear, Snow Monster&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;LEGENDS&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
* Time Elemental, Earth Elemental, Fire Elemental, Storm Elemental, Leviathan, Hell Bull, Angel of Death, Two-Headed Dragon, Fire Dragon, Titan, Bone Catapult&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;FLARES&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Symbols:&lt;br /&gt;
* m = standard move; x = combat move&lt;br /&gt;
* ^ = standard leap; x^ = combat leap &lt;br /&gt;
* + = upgrade; A = gain action&lt;br /&gt;
* no sign = place&lt;br /&gt;
* H = heroic; C = common; P = any non-legendary piece&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Cards:&lt;br /&gt;
* 2 / 5 : ^C / A&lt;br /&gt;
* 3 / 4 : C / xP or mPP&lt;br /&gt;
* 3 / 5 : mCCC / A&lt;br /&gt;
* 3 / 6 : mC or +C / CC&lt;br /&gt;
* 3 / 6 : C / H&lt;br /&gt;
* 4 / 4 : C / C&lt;br /&gt;
* 4 / 4 : C or +C / x^C&lt;br /&gt;
* 4 / 6 : C / +C and A &lt;br /&gt;
* 4 / 5 : A / C&lt;br /&gt;
* 4 / 5 : C / C or convert enemy C&lt;br /&gt;
* 5 / 4 : H / mC xC&lt;br /&gt;
* 5 / 5 : CC / C&lt;/div&gt;</summary>
		<author><name>Nandblock</name></author>
	</entry>
	<entry>
		<id>https://gl.doc.boardgamearena.com/index.php?title=Tips_carrara&amp;diff=2740</id>
		<title>Tips carrara</title>
		<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="https://gl.doc.boardgamearena.com/index.php?title=Tips_carrara&amp;diff=2740"/>
		<updated>2017-10-29T22:35:11Z</updated>

		<summary type="html">&lt;p&gt;Nandblock: Created page with &amp;quot;For a detailed analysis, it is hard to improve on this account: https://boardgamegeek.com/thread/1637914/depth-strategic-and-tactical-analysis&amp;quot;&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;hr /&gt;
&lt;div&gt;For a detailed analysis, it is hard to improve on this account: https://boardgamegeek.com/thread/1637914/depth-strategic-and-tactical-analysis&lt;/div&gt;</summary>
		<author><name>Nandblock</name></author>
	</entry>
	<entry>
		<id>https://gl.doc.boardgamearena.com/index.php?title=Gamehelptashkalar&amp;diff=2730</id>
		<title>Gamehelptashkalar</title>
		<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="https://gl.doc.boardgamearena.com/index.php?title=Gamehelptashkalar&amp;diff=2730"/>
		<updated>2017-10-20T14:35:17Z</updated>

		<summary type="html">&lt;p&gt;Nandblock: /* Setup */&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;hr /&gt;
&lt;div&gt;== HIGH FORM RULES ==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
High form is currently only implemented as a two-player game on BGA.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=== Terminology ===&lt;br /&gt;
Pieces are ranked in order: &#039;&#039;&#039;common, heroic, legendary.&#039;&#039;&#039; &#039;&#039;&#039;Upgrade&#039;&#039;&#039; and &#039;&#039;&#039;downgrade&#039;&#039;&#039; mean changing the rank of a piece by one step. A higher ranked piece may count (for summoning or tasks) as if it were of lower rank. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
A &#039;&#039;&#039;move&#039;&#039;&#039; is one square in any direction (including diagonals). A &#039;&#039;&#039;leap&#039;&#039;&#039; is from any square to any other.&lt;br /&gt;
A &#039;&#039;&#039;standard move/leap&#039;&#039;&#039; is permitted onto any empty square or one occupied by a piece of a lesser rank.&lt;br /&gt;
A &#039;&#039;&#039;combat move/leap&#039;&#039;&#039; is permitted onto any empty square or one occupied by a piece of &#039;&#039;the same&#039;&#039; or lesser rank.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Any piece previously occupying the destination square of a move/leap is destroyed. You may destroy your own pieces. &amp;quot;Converting&amp;quot; a piece to a different colour counts as destroying it, but upgrading or downgrading it does not.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
When text on a card refers to the name of the Being, it is referring to the piece in the square where it is summoned.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=== Setup ===&lt;br /&gt;
Each player receives 3 cards from their personal deck, plus 2 Legendary Beings and one flare from the common decks. Four cards are drawn for the task queue. The first three are immediately available; the fourth is not yet available. None of the first three tasks may be &amp;quot;advanced&amp;quot; (certain 3-point tasks), and there may not be three tasks of the same type among the four on display (BGA automatically enforces these rules).&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=== Turns ===&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The starting player takes a single action. In subsequent turns, each player takes two actions. These may be any of the following:&lt;br /&gt;
* - Place a common piece on any empty square&lt;br /&gt;
* - Summon a being&lt;br /&gt;
* - Discard a card and (optionally) return other cards to the bottom of their decks. &#039;&#039;(Only permitted once per turn.)&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
In addition, before or after any action, a flare may be played, if one or both of its conditions are met.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Once a turn is over:&lt;br /&gt;
* - You may claim one task card and earn its victory points (VPs) if you meet its conditions. &lt;br /&gt;
* - If necessary, replenish your hand from the appropriate decks and update the task queue. (Automated on BGA.)&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=== Playing a Flare ===&lt;br /&gt;
Each flare lists two numbers: X/Y. The top effect may be activated if a player has X fewer upgraded pieces on the board than their opponent; the bottom effect if they have Y fewer pieces in total on the board. Effects activate in top-to-bottom order.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=== Summoning ===&lt;br /&gt;
If your pieces are in the formation on a Being’s card (in any orientation or mirror image), you may summon the piece in the top left corner: it is placed via a combat leap onto the white square in the pattern. For most beings, the white square is empty, but some require a piece of your own to be present in the square. Once the Being is summoned, the effects listed on its card are activated.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Patterns for Legendary Beings require one or more heroic pieces. Each legendary piece on the board earns 1 VP. Each player can place a maximum of 3 legendary pieces on the board. If one is destroyed, 1 VP is lost.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=== Discarding ===&lt;br /&gt;
Once per turn a player may discard a card. They may also return as many other cards as they like (regular cards, legends, flares) to the bottom of the appropriate decks. Once the turn is over, they replenish their hand as usual. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=== Running Out of Pieces ===&lt;br /&gt;
If a player needs to place a piece and has no more in stock, they must pick up one from the board before placing the new piece. (Heroic and common pieces come from the same pool--in the original boardgame, they are reverse sides of the same piece--but there are only three legendary pieces for each colour.)&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=== Game End and Scoring ===&lt;br /&gt;
When one player scores 9 VPs or draws the last card from their own deck, game end is triggered. Everyone plays one more turn, including the player who triggered endgame. Even if their score decreases below 9 due to destruction of a legendary piece, the game still ends.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
High score wins. Tiebreakers are, in order, (1) number of upgraded pieces; (2) total number of pieces.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== DEATHMATCH RULES: TWO PLAYERS (DUEL) ==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
No tasks are used. Opening positions are marked on the game board. The first player to score 18 VPs triggers the endgame. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Destroying pieces scores VPs as follows:&lt;br /&gt;
* - 1 VP for every 2 common pieces, rounded down&lt;br /&gt;
* - 1 VP for a heroic piece&lt;br /&gt;
* - 2 VPs for a legendary piece&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Summoning a legend scores 1 VP. This VP is not lost if the piece is later destroyed.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
If you play a flare your opponent gains 1 VP.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== DEATHMATCH RULES: THREE OR FOUR PLAYERS ==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Setup: In three-player Deathmatch, the third player places one common piece adjacent to each diamond symbol. In four-player Deathmatch, the fourth player places one common piece adjacent to each diamond symbol for the first, third and fourth players. As usual, the first player only gets one action. (Sounds complicated? Don&#039;t worry, BGA automates the setup.)&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Scores are tracked separately in each colour. Your final score is the lowest of these scores. (The second and, in 4-player games, third lowest scores are used as tiebreakers.)&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
When you score common pieces, first all common colour pairs are scored; then, if two common pieces of different colours remain, you may choose which colour to score against.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
When you summon a legend, you may choose which opponent to score 1 VP against.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
You may meet one or both criteria for a flare against multiple opponents, in which case you may choose whom to trigger it against (and give them 1 VP).&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Endgame is triggered by a player scoring 12 (for three-player) or 10 (for four-player) VPs in a single colour.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=== Improvised Summoning ===&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Once per game, and once for each opponent&#039;s colour, a player may use an opponent&#039;s piece as their own when summoning a Being. (Thus in a 3-player game, a player may perform two improvised summonings; in a 4-player game, three--one for each opponent&#039;s colour.) Only one piece may be used per improvised summoning: you may not use two different opponents&#039; pieces simultaneously.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== EVERFROST EXPANSION ==&lt;br /&gt;
Several Beings in the Everfrost deck have &amp;quot;frozen effects&amp;quot;. These effects do not have to take place immediately upon summoning; they can be activated later (&amp;quot;thawed&amp;quot;), like a flare. Only one such frozen effect may be stored at a time; if you summon a Being with a frozen effect and already have one in storage, you must discard one or the other frozen effect.&lt;/div&gt;</summary>
		<author><name>Nandblock</name></author>
	</entry>
	<entry>
		<id>https://gl.doc.boardgamearena.com/index.php?title=Gamehelptashkalar&amp;diff=2729</id>
		<title>Gamehelptashkalar</title>
		<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="https://gl.doc.boardgamearena.com/index.php?title=Gamehelptashkalar&amp;diff=2729"/>
		<updated>2017-10-19T17:02:29Z</updated>

		<summary type="html">&lt;p&gt;Nandblock: /* Terminology */&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;hr /&gt;
&lt;div&gt;== HIGH FORM RULES ==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
High form is currently only implemented as a two-player game on BGA.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=== Terminology ===&lt;br /&gt;
Pieces are ranked in order: &#039;&#039;&#039;common, heroic, legendary.&#039;&#039;&#039; &#039;&#039;&#039;Upgrade&#039;&#039;&#039; and &#039;&#039;&#039;downgrade&#039;&#039;&#039; mean changing the rank of a piece by one step. A higher ranked piece may count (for summoning or tasks) as if it were of lower rank. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
A &#039;&#039;&#039;move&#039;&#039;&#039; is one square in any direction (including diagonals). A &#039;&#039;&#039;leap&#039;&#039;&#039; is from any square to any other.&lt;br /&gt;
A &#039;&#039;&#039;standard move/leap&#039;&#039;&#039; is permitted onto any empty square or one occupied by a piece of a lesser rank.&lt;br /&gt;
A &#039;&#039;&#039;combat move/leap&#039;&#039;&#039; is permitted onto any empty square or one occupied by a piece of &#039;&#039;the same&#039;&#039; or lesser rank.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Any piece previously occupying the destination square of a move/leap is destroyed. You may destroy your own pieces. &amp;quot;Converting&amp;quot; a piece to a different colour counts as destroying it, but upgrading or downgrading it does not.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
When text on a card refers to the name of the Being, it is referring to the piece in the square where it is summoned.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=== Setup ===&lt;br /&gt;
Each player receives 3 cards from their personal deck, plus 2 Legendary Beings and one flare from the common decks. Four cards are drawn for the task queue. The first three are immediately available; the fourth is not yet available. None of the first three tasks may be &amp;quot;advanced&amp;quot; (the most difficult, 3-point tasks), and there may not be three tasks of the same type among the four on display (BGA automatically enforces these rules).&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=== Turns ===&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The starting player takes a single action. In subsequent turns, each player takes two actions. These may be any of the following:&lt;br /&gt;
* - Place a common piece on any empty square&lt;br /&gt;
* - Summon a being&lt;br /&gt;
* - Discard a card and (optionally) return other cards to the bottom of their decks. &#039;&#039;(Only permitted once per turn.)&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
In addition, before or after any action, a flare may be played, if one or both of its conditions are met.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Once a turn is over:&lt;br /&gt;
* - You may claim one task card and earn its victory points (VPs) if you meet its conditions. &lt;br /&gt;
* - If necessary, replenish your hand from the appropriate decks and update the task queue. (Automated on BGA.)&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=== Playing a Flare ===&lt;br /&gt;
Each flare lists two numbers: X/Y. The top effect may be activated if a player has X fewer upgraded pieces on the board than their opponent; the bottom effect if they have Y fewer pieces in total on the board. Effects activate in top-to-bottom order.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=== Summoning ===&lt;br /&gt;
If your pieces are in the formation on a Being’s card (in any orientation or mirror image), you may summon the piece in the top left corner: it is placed via a combat leap onto the white square in the pattern. For most beings, the white square is empty, but some require a piece of your own to be present in the square. Once the Being is summoned, the effects listed on its card are activated.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Patterns for Legendary Beings require one or more heroic pieces. Each legendary piece on the board earns 1 VP. Each player can place a maximum of 3 legendary pieces on the board. If one is destroyed, 1 VP is lost.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=== Discarding ===&lt;br /&gt;
Once per turn a player may discard a card. They may also return as many other cards as they like (regular cards, legends, flares) to the bottom of the appropriate decks. Once the turn is over, they replenish their hand as usual. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=== Running Out of Pieces ===&lt;br /&gt;
If a player needs to place a piece and has no more in stock, they must pick up one from the board before placing the new piece. (Heroic and common pieces come from the same pool--in the original boardgame, they are reverse sides of the same piece--but there are only three legendary pieces for each colour.)&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=== Game End and Scoring ===&lt;br /&gt;
When one player scores 9 VPs or draws the last card from their own deck, game end is triggered. Everyone plays one more turn, including the player who triggered endgame. Even if their score decreases below 9 due to destruction of a legendary piece, the game still ends.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
High score wins. Tiebreakers are, in order, (1) number of upgraded pieces; (2) total number of pieces.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== DEATHMATCH RULES: TWO PLAYERS (DUEL) ==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
No tasks are used. Opening positions are marked on the game board. The first player to score 18 VPs triggers the endgame. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Destroying pieces scores VPs as follows:&lt;br /&gt;
* - 1 VP for every 2 common pieces, rounded down&lt;br /&gt;
* - 1 VP for a heroic piece&lt;br /&gt;
* - 2 VPs for a legendary piece&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Summoning a legend scores 1 VP. This VP is not lost if the piece is later destroyed.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
If you play a flare your opponent gains 1 VP.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== DEATHMATCH RULES: THREE OR FOUR PLAYERS ==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Setup: In three-player Deathmatch, the third player places one common piece adjacent to each diamond symbol. In four-player Deathmatch, the fourth player places one common piece adjacent to each diamond symbol for the first, third and fourth players. As usual, the first player only gets one action. (Sounds complicated? Don&#039;t worry, BGA automates the setup.)&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Scores are tracked separately in each colour. Your final score is the lowest of these scores. (The second and, in 4-player games, third lowest scores are used as tiebreakers.)&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
When you score common pieces, first all common colour pairs are scored; then, if two common pieces of different colours remain, you may choose which colour to score against.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
When you summon a legend, you may choose which opponent to score 1 VP against.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
You may meet one or both criteria for a flare against multiple opponents, in which case you may choose whom to trigger it against (and give them 1 VP).&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Endgame is triggered by a player scoring 12 (for three-player) or 10 (for four-player) VPs in a single colour.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=== Improvised Summoning ===&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Once per game, and once for each opponent&#039;s colour, a player may use an opponent&#039;s piece as their own when summoning a Being. (Thus in a 3-player game, a player may perform two improvised summonings; in a 4-player game, three--one for each opponent&#039;s colour.) Only one piece may be used per improvised summoning: you may not use two different opponents&#039; pieces simultaneously.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== EVERFROST EXPANSION ==&lt;br /&gt;
Several Beings in the Everfrost deck have &amp;quot;frozen effects&amp;quot;. These effects do not have to take place immediately upon summoning; they can be activated later (&amp;quot;thawed&amp;quot;), like a flare. Only one such frozen effect may be stored at a time; if you summon a Being with a frozen effect and already have one in storage, you must discard one or the other frozen effect.&lt;/div&gt;</summary>
		<author><name>Nandblock</name></author>
	</entry>
	<entry>
		<id>https://gl.doc.boardgamearena.com/index.php?title=Gamehelptashkalar&amp;diff=2728</id>
		<title>Gamehelptashkalar</title>
		<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="https://gl.doc.boardgamearena.com/index.php?title=Gamehelptashkalar&amp;diff=2728"/>
		<updated>2017-10-19T17:00:29Z</updated>

		<summary type="html">&lt;p&gt;Nandblock: /* Setup */&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;hr /&gt;
&lt;div&gt;== HIGH FORM RULES ==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
High form is currently only implemented as a two-player game on BGA.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=== Terminology ===&lt;br /&gt;
Pieces are ranked in order: &#039;&#039;&#039;common, heroic, legendary.&#039;&#039;&#039; &#039;&#039;&#039;Upgrade&#039;&#039;&#039; and &#039;&#039;&#039;downgrade&#039;&#039;&#039; mean changing the rank of a piece by one step. A higher ranked piece may count (for summoning or tasks) as if it were of lower rank. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
A &#039;&#039;&#039;move&#039;&#039;&#039; is one square in any direction (including diagonals). A &#039;&#039;&#039;leap&#039;&#039;&#039; is from any square to any other.&lt;br /&gt;
A &#039;&#039;&#039;standard move/leap&#039;&#039;&#039; is permitted onto any empty square or one occupied by a piece of a lesser rank.&lt;br /&gt;
A &#039;&#039;&#039;combat move/leap&#039;&#039;&#039; is permitted onto any empty square or one occupied by a piece of &#039;&#039;the same&#039;&#039; or lesser rank.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Any piece previously occupying the destination square of a move/leap is destroyed. You may destroy your own pieces.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=== Setup ===&lt;br /&gt;
Each player receives 3 cards from their personal deck, plus 2 Legendary Beings and one flare from the common decks. Four cards are drawn for the task queue. The first three are immediately available; the fourth is not yet available. None of the first three tasks may be &amp;quot;advanced&amp;quot; (the most difficult, 3-point tasks), and there may not be three tasks of the same type among the four on display (BGA automatically enforces these rules).&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=== Turns ===&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The starting player takes a single action. In subsequent turns, each player takes two actions. These may be any of the following:&lt;br /&gt;
* - Place a common piece on any empty square&lt;br /&gt;
* - Summon a being&lt;br /&gt;
* - Discard a card and (optionally) return other cards to the bottom of their decks. &#039;&#039;(Only permitted once per turn.)&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
In addition, before or after any action, a flare may be played, if one or both of its conditions are met.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Once a turn is over:&lt;br /&gt;
* - You may claim one task card and earn its victory points (VPs) if you meet its conditions. &lt;br /&gt;
* - If necessary, replenish your hand from the appropriate decks and update the task queue. (Automated on BGA.)&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=== Playing a Flare ===&lt;br /&gt;
Each flare lists two numbers: X/Y. The top effect may be activated if a player has X fewer upgraded pieces on the board than their opponent; the bottom effect if they have Y fewer pieces in total on the board. Effects activate in top-to-bottom order.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=== Summoning ===&lt;br /&gt;
If your pieces are in the formation on a Being’s card (in any orientation or mirror image), you may summon the piece in the top left corner: it is placed via a combat leap onto the white square in the pattern. For most beings, the white square is empty, but some require a piece of your own to be present in the square. Once the Being is summoned, the effects listed on its card are activated.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Patterns for Legendary Beings require one or more heroic pieces. Each legendary piece on the board earns 1 VP. Each player can place a maximum of 3 legendary pieces on the board. If one is destroyed, 1 VP is lost.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=== Discarding ===&lt;br /&gt;
Once per turn a player may discard a card. They may also return as many other cards as they like (regular cards, legends, flares) to the bottom of the appropriate decks. Once the turn is over, they replenish their hand as usual. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=== Running Out of Pieces ===&lt;br /&gt;
If a player needs to place a piece and has no more in stock, they must pick up one from the board before placing the new piece. (Heroic and common pieces come from the same pool--in the original boardgame, they are reverse sides of the same piece--but there are only three legendary pieces for each colour.)&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=== Game End and Scoring ===&lt;br /&gt;
When one player scores 9 VPs or draws the last card from their own deck, game end is triggered. Everyone plays one more turn, including the player who triggered endgame. Even if their score decreases below 9 due to destruction of a legendary piece, the game still ends.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
High score wins. Tiebreakers are, in order, (1) number of upgraded pieces; (2) total number of pieces.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== DEATHMATCH RULES: TWO PLAYERS (DUEL) ==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
No tasks are used. Opening positions are marked on the game board. The first player to score 18 VPs triggers the endgame. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Destroying pieces scores VPs as follows:&lt;br /&gt;
* - 1 VP for every 2 common pieces, rounded down&lt;br /&gt;
* - 1 VP for a heroic piece&lt;br /&gt;
* - 2 VPs for a legendary piece&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Summoning a legend scores 1 VP. This VP is not lost if the piece is later destroyed.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
If you play a flare your opponent gains 1 VP.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== DEATHMATCH RULES: THREE OR FOUR PLAYERS ==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Setup: In three-player Deathmatch, the third player places one common piece adjacent to each diamond symbol. In four-player Deathmatch, the fourth player places one common piece adjacent to each diamond symbol for the first, third and fourth players. As usual, the first player only gets one action. (Sounds complicated? Don&#039;t worry, BGA automates the setup.)&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Scores are tracked separately in each colour. Your final score is the lowest of these scores. (The second and, in 4-player games, third lowest scores are used as tiebreakers.)&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
When you score common pieces, first all common colour pairs are scored; then, if two common pieces of different colours remain, you may choose which colour to score against.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
When you summon a legend, you may choose which opponent to score 1 VP against.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
You may meet one or both criteria for a flare against multiple opponents, in which case you may choose whom to trigger it against (and give them 1 VP).&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Endgame is triggered by a player scoring 12 (for three-player) or 10 (for four-player) VPs in a single colour.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=== Improvised Summoning ===&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Once per game, and once for each opponent&#039;s colour, a player may use an opponent&#039;s piece as their own when summoning a Being. (Thus in a 3-player game, a player may perform two improvised summonings; in a 4-player game, three--one for each opponent&#039;s colour.) Only one piece may be used per improvised summoning: you may not use two different opponents&#039; pieces simultaneously.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== EVERFROST EXPANSION ==&lt;br /&gt;
Several Beings in the Everfrost deck have &amp;quot;frozen effects&amp;quot;. These effects do not have to take place immediately upon summoning; they can be activated later (&amp;quot;thawed&amp;quot;), like a flare. Only one such frozen effect may be stored at a time; if you summon a Being with a frozen effect and already have one in storage, you must discard one or the other frozen effect.&lt;/div&gt;</summary>
		<author><name>Nandblock</name></author>
	</entry>
	<entry>
		<id>https://gl.doc.boardgamearena.com/index.php?title=Tips_tashkalar&amp;diff=2712</id>
		<title>Tips tashkalar</title>
		<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="https://gl.doc.boardgamearena.com/index.php?title=Tips_tashkalar&amp;diff=2712"/>
		<updated>2017-09-20T22:59:15Z</updated>

		<summary type="html">&lt;p&gt;Nandblock: /* High Form Strategy */&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;hr /&gt;
&lt;div&gt;== High Form Strategy ==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;1) Board Management&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;Keep your piece-count down.&#039;&#039; If a piece of your own is not helping your position and you have a chance to destroy it, do so rather than destroying an enemy piece--this puts you rather than them closer to a flare. If you&#039;re ahead in the game and your piece count is high, consider discarding cards or summoning a being on top of your own piece (oversummoning) to avoid placing another piece on the board.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;Keep your pieces together.&#039;&#039; If your position is dispersed, those pieces will add to your piece-count, making it impossible to get a life-saving flare while being useless for summoning or claiming tasks.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;Place pieces on or around coloured squares by preference.&#039;&#039; Even if there&#039;s no coloured summoning/conquest task on the board, one will eventually pop up. (Caveat: do not casually leave pieces on red squares if you are playing against Highland and they haven&#039;t yet played Blood Shaman.)&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;Do not let your opponent set up camp far away from you.&#039;&#039; Make sure you are always able to destroy a piece or two of theirs.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;2) Hand Management&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;Play or discard cards rather than letting them go stale.&#039;&#039; Don&#039;t grow too attached to a card unless you&#039;re absolutely sure you need to use it soon to accomplish a task. If it&#039;s not helping you, get rid of it by summoning it, even if you can&#039;t trigger its effects, or discarding it. The smaller your deck, the more precise your endgame play will be, as you will know with certainty what you will draw; and if you cannot score 9 points, you want to be the person who triggers the endgame by running out of cards. -- By discarding you can also get rid of a flare that is hard to trigger, or Legends that are not useful. It also improves the precision of your endgame if you use the opportunity to place one or two cards on the bottom of your deck.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;Anticipate key cards in your deck.&#039;&#039; Don&#039;t just set up existing patterns in your hand (though do that too!); if you know a useful card is in your deck, try to keep a few pieces on the board that will help you achieve that pattern. It might be the next card you draw. (E.g. if you have the Highland deck, try to maintain a few pieces at the corners of a green square in anticipation of Ritual Master, or a bow-shape for Warlord / Eagle Lord.) When you&#039;re just starting out, it is impossible to remember all the cards, but be aware of the most powerful and disruptive ones: Hypnotist and Bomb (North/South Empire); Everfrost Sentinel; Blood Shaman and Ritual Master (Highland); Forest Ancient (Sylvan); and Leviathan and Time Elemental (Legends).&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;Track the cards.&#039;&#039; If you are playing a turn-based game, use the Notes feature of BGA to keep track of both your cards and your opponent&#039;s.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;Learn the decks and Legendary Beings.&#039;&#039; To reiterate: as a beginner, &#039;&#039;do not worry about memorizing every single card!&#039;&#039; But eventually you will need to be able to recognize patterns that your opponent is trying to form, and know what&#039;s coming up in your own deck that might be useful.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;3) Flares&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;Be wary of flares.&#039;&#039; A typical beginner&#039;s mistake is to assume that accumulating more pieces than your opponent, and destroying many of your opponent&#039;s pieces, is a good idea. But &#039;&#039;&#039;this brute-force approach will usually lose the game,&#039;&#039;&#039; because it gives an opponent the opportunity to flare every turn. Extra actions are extremely valuable in Tash-Kalar--often they are the deciding factor in claiming a task or totally reshaping the board--so don&#039;t let your opponent get flares easily. If you are ahead in piece-count, try to stay ahead by a maximum of 2 heroic pieces and 3 pieces in total--this guarantees that only one flare (the 2/5 one) is playable. If you must exceed that limit, avoid triggering top and bottom flares at once. (The upper number on flares ranges from 2 to 5; the lower number from 4 to 6.) None of the bottom-4 flares are big game-changing ones; but several top-3 flares are powerful, so if you&#039;re going to risk triggering one, go ahead 2/4 rather than 3/3 by preference.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;Play your flare!&#039;&#039; If you can play it, the vast majority of the time you should. This is true even if it does nothing helpful--in that case, play it simply to discard it and get a more useful one in return.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;Discard a bad flare when possible.&#039;&#039; If you have a high-value flare (such as 4/6 or 5/5) that you can&#039;t trigger, and you&#039;re falling behind in the game, consider discarding in order to ditch the flare. In addition to refreshing your hand and hopefully landing you a more usable flare, the discard action means you put down one fewer piece on the turn, meaning that you&#039;re very likely to be able to play the new flare.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;4) Tasks, Legends, and Scoring&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;Prioritize 1- and 2-point tasks, not 3-pointers and Legends.&#039;&#039; In particular, Side Chain and Corner Chain are very difficult to achieve without an exorbitant cost. Legends are good but since the 1 point they give is no better than an easily achievable 1-point task, and can be taken away from you, they should not be a priority unless they help accomplish a task. You need to claim easy tasks before your opponent does, as they stack up quickly--in particular, never leave End of Legends, Heroic Destruction or Rainbow Domination unclaimed for long, as they are the easiest 2-point tasks to claim.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;5) Opening Moves&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
In general (though this advice is dependent on your initial draw and the first tasks available), place your first pieces near the centre but somewhat off-centre, and in the vicinity of coloured squares. This maximizes control of the board, positional flexibility, and ability to engage in direct conflict or move away from it. If your hand is full of 2- and 3-piece patterns, being right next to your opponent&#039;s pieces is good, as you will be able to destroy their pieces easily. If it&#039;s full of 4- and 5-piece patterns, keep more distance at first.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;6) Patience&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Tash-Kalar games tend to have a dramatic mid-game &amp;quot;bounce&amp;quot;: it is very hard to hang on to an early lead, because the player in the lead will have typically grabbed all the tasks they can easily grab, used their best cards, and be on the verge of giving up flares. If you are behind, even by a substantial number of points, do not give in easily, especially since you will have a more precise sense of what&#039;s in your deck and your opponent&#039;s and can plan accordingly. If you are ahead, be wary: start reducing your piece-count, and if you have a strong lead, summon (or discard) Beings as much as possible to hasten the endgame.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== Cards ==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Here is a full list of all cards in Tash-Kalar&#039;s BGA implementation (numbers denote the pieces in the pattern):&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;IMPERIAL&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
* 2: Messenger, Swordmaster, Bomb&lt;br /&gt;
* 3: Chronicler, Herald, High Priestess, Summoner, Cannon, Assassin&lt;br /&gt;
* 4: Gryphon Rider, Knight, Master of Intrigue, Cavalry Captain, Infantry Captain, Champion, Time Mage, Gun Tower, Hypnotist&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;SYLVAN&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
* 2: Sapling, Kiskin Farseeders, Forest Wardens&lt;br /&gt;
* 3: Naiad, Charging Buck, Kiskin Spirit, Dryad, Forest Mystic, Sylvan Princess, Woodland Druid&lt;br /&gt;
* 4: Unicorn, Kiskin Boughrunner, Kiskin Leafsplitter, Centaur Spearman, Forest Ancient, Centaur Chieftain, Sylvan Queen, Tree Shepherd&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;HIGHLAND&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
* 2: Ritual Keeper, Wild Eagle, Clan Axeman&lt;br /&gt;
* 3: Dire Wolf, Clan Healer, Clan Guardian, Ritual Master, Hungry Bear&lt;br /&gt;
* 4: Wolf Rider, Mountain Troll, Hill Giant, Eagle Lord, War Summoner, War Drummer, Legend Slayer, Blood Shaman, Werewolf&lt;br /&gt;
* 5: Warlord&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;EVERFROST&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
* 2: Snow Fox, Crystal Mirror, Crystal Grower&lt;br /&gt;
* 3: Ice Princess, Royal Reindeer, Frostweave Illusionist, Frostweave Summoner, Frost Imp, Frozen Chest&lt;br /&gt;
* 4: Winter Whisperer, Glacier Giant, Ice Queen, Ice Wyvern, Everfrost Sentinel, Deathbringer, War Sled, Polar Bear, Snow Monster&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;LEGENDS&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
* Time Elemental, Earth Elemental, Fire Elemental, Storm Elemental, Leviathan, Hell Bull, Angel of Death, Two-Headed Dragon, Fire Dragon, Titan, Bone Catapult&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;FLARES&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Symbols:&lt;br /&gt;
* m = standard move; x = combat move&lt;br /&gt;
* ^ = standard leap; x^ = combat leap &lt;br /&gt;
* + = upgrade; A = gain action&lt;br /&gt;
* no sign = place&lt;br /&gt;
* H = heroic; C = common; P = any non-legendary piece&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Cards:&lt;br /&gt;
* 2 / 5 : ^C / A&lt;br /&gt;
* 3 / 4 : C / xP or mPP&lt;br /&gt;
* 3 / 5 : mCCC / A&lt;br /&gt;
* 3 / 6 : mC or +C / CC&lt;br /&gt;
* 3 / 6 : C / H&lt;br /&gt;
* 4 / 4 : C / C&lt;br /&gt;
* 4 / 4 : C or +C / x^C&lt;br /&gt;
* 4 / 6 : C / +C and A &lt;br /&gt;
* 4 / 5 : A / C&lt;br /&gt;
* 4 / 5 : C / C or convert enemy C&lt;br /&gt;
* 5 / 4 : H / mC xC&lt;br /&gt;
* 5 / 5 : CC / C&lt;/div&gt;</summary>
		<author><name>Nandblock</name></author>
	</entry>
	<entry>
		<id>https://gl.doc.boardgamearena.com/index.php?title=Gamehelptashkalar&amp;diff=2625</id>
		<title>Gamehelptashkalar</title>
		<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="https://gl.doc.boardgamearena.com/index.php?title=Gamehelptashkalar&amp;diff=2625"/>
		<updated>2017-08-08T19:08:54Z</updated>

		<summary type="html">&lt;p&gt;Nandblock: /* Summoning */&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;hr /&gt;
&lt;div&gt;== HIGH FORM RULES ==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
High form is currently only implemented as a two-player game on BGA.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=== Terminology ===&lt;br /&gt;
Pieces are ranked in order: &#039;&#039;&#039;common, heroic, legendary.&#039;&#039;&#039; &#039;&#039;&#039;Upgrade&#039;&#039;&#039; and &#039;&#039;&#039;downgrade&#039;&#039;&#039; mean changing the rank of a piece by one step. A higher ranked piece may count (for summoning or tasks) as if it were of lower rank. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
A &#039;&#039;&#039;move&#039;&#039;&#039; is one square in any direction (including diagonals). A &#039;&#039;&#039;leap&#039;&#039;&#039; is from any square to any other.&lt;br /&gt;
A &#039;&#039;&#039;standard move/leap&#039;&#039;&#039; is permitted onto any empty square or one occupied by a piece of a lesser rank.&lt;br /&gt;
A &#039;&#039;&#039;combat move/leap&#039;&#039;&#039; is permitted onto any empty square or one occupied by a piece of &#039;&#039;the same&#039;&#039; or lesser rank.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Any piece previously occupying the destination square of a move/leap is destroyed. You may destroy your own pieces.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=== Setup ===&lt;br /&gt;
Each player receives 3 cards from their personal deck, plus 2 Legendary Beings and one flare from the common decks. Four cards are drawn for the task queue. The first three are immediately available; the fourth is not yet available. Three tasks of the same type may not be active at once (BGA automatically enforces this rule).&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=== Turns ===&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The starting player takes a single action. In subsequent turns, each player takes two actions. These may be any of the following:&lt;br /&gt;
* - Place a common piece on any empty square&lt;br /&gt;
* - Summon a being&lt;br /&gt;
* - Discard a card and (optionally) return other cards to the bottom of their decks. &#039;&#039;(Only permitted once per turn.)&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
In addition, before or after any action, a flare may be played, if one or both of its conditions are met.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Once a turn is over:&lt;br /&gt;
* - You may claim one task card and earn its victory points (VPs) if you meet its conditions. &lt;br /&gt;
* - If necessary, replenish your hand from the appropriate decks and update the task queue. (Automated on BGA.)&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=== Playing a Flare ===&lt;br /&gt;
Each flare lists two numbers: X/Y. The top effect may be activated if a player has X fewer upgraded pieces on the board than their opponent; the bottom effect if they have Y fewer pieces in total on the board. Effects activate in top-to-bottom order.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=== Summoning ===&lt;br /&gt;
If your pieces are in the formation on a Being’s card (in any orientation or mirror image), you may summon the piece in the top left corner: it is placed via a combat leap onto the white square in the pattern. For most beings, the white square is empty, but some require a piece of your own to be present in the square. Once the Being is summoned, the effects listed on its card are activated.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Patterns for Legendary Beings require one or more heroic pieces. Each legendary piece on the board earns 1 VP. Each player can place a maximum of 3 legendary pieces on the board. If one is destroyed, 1 VP is lost.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=== Discarding ===&lt;br /&gt;
Once per turn a player may discard a card. They may also return as many other cards as they like (regular cards, legends, flares) to the bottom of the appropriate decks. Once the turn is over, they replenish their hand as usual. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=== Running Out of Pieces ===&lt;br /&gt;
If a player needs to place a piece and has no more in stock, they must pick up one from the board before placing the new piece. (Heroic and common pieces come from the same pool--in the original boardgame, they are reverse sides of the same piece--but there are only three legendary pieces for each colour.)&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=== Game End and Scoring ===&lt;br /&gt;
When one player scores 9 VPs or draws the last card from their own deck, game end is triggered. Everyone plays one more turn, including the player who triggered endgame. Even if their score decreases below 9 due to destruction of a legendary piece, the game still ends.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
High score wins. Tiebreakers are, in order, (1) number of upgraded pieces; (2) total number of pieces.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== DEATHMATCH RULES: TWO PLAYERS (DUEL) ==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
No tasks are used. Opening positions are marked on the game board. The first player to score 18 VPs triggers the endgame. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Destroying pieces scores VPs as follows:&lt;br /&gt;
* - 1 VP for every 2 common pieces, rounded down&lt;br /&gt;
* - 1 VP for a heroic piece&lt;br /&gt;
* - 2 VPs for a legendary piece&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Summoning a legend scores 1 VP. This VP is not lost if the piece is later destroyed.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
If you play a flare your opponent gains 1 VP.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== DEATHMATCH RULES: THREE OR FOUR PLAYERS ==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Setup: In three-player Deathmatch, the third player places one common piece adjacent to each diamond symbol. In four-player Deathmatch, the fourth player places one common piece adjacent to each diamond symbol for the first, third and fourth players. As usual, the first player only gets one action. (Sounds complicated? Don&#039;t worry, BGA automates the setup.)&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Scores are tracked separately in each colour. Your final score is the lowest of these scores. (The second and, in 4-player games, third lowest scores are used as tiebreakers.)&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
When you score common pieces, first all common colour pairs are scored; then, if two common pieces of different colours remain, you may choose which colour to score against.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
When you summon a legend, you may choose which opponent to score 1 VP against.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
You may meet one or both criteria for a flare against multiple opponents, in which case you may choose whom to trigger it against (and give them 1 VP).&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Endgame is triggered by a player scoring 12 (for three-player) or 10 (for four-player) VPs in a single colour.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=== Improvised Summoning ===&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Once per game, and once for each opponent&#039;s colour, a player may use an opponent&#039;s piece as their own when summoning a Being. (Thus in a 3-player game, a player may perform two improvised summonings; in a 4-player game, three--one for each opponent&#039;s colour.) Only one piece may be used per improvised summoning: you may not use two different opponents&#039; pieces simultaneously.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== EVERFROST EXPANSION ==&lt;br /&gt;
Several Beings in the Everfrost deck have &amp;quot;frozen effects&amp;quot;. These effects do not have to take place immediately upon summoning; they can be activated later (&amp;quot;thawed&amp;quot;), like a flare. Only one such frozen effect may be stored at a time; if you summon a Being with a frozen effect and already have one in storage, you must discard one or the other frozen effect.&lt;/div&gt;</summary>
		<author><name>Nandblock</name></author>
	</entry>
	<entry>
		<id>https://gl.doc.boardgamearena.com/index.php?title=Gamehelptashkalar&amp;diff=2624</id>
		<title>Gamehelptashkalar</title>
		<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="https://gl.doc.boardgamearena.com/index.php?title=Gamehelptashkalar&amp;diff=2624"/>
		<updated>2017-08-08T19:06:32Z</updated>

		<summary type="html">&lt;p&gt;Nandblock: /* Turns */&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;hr /&gt;
&lt;div&gt;== HIGH FORM RULES ==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
High form is currently only implemented as a two-player game on BGA.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=== Terminology ===&lt;br /&gt;
Pieces are ranked in order: &#039;&#039;&#039;common, heroic, legendary.&#039;&#039;&#039; &#039;&#039;&#039;Upgrade&#039;&#039;&#039; and &#039;&#039;&#039;downgrade&#039;&#039;&#039; mean changing the rank of a piece by one step. A higher ranked piece may count (for summoning or tasks) as if it were of lower rank. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
A &#039;&#039;&#039;move&#039;&#039;&#039; is one square in any direction (including diagonals). A &#039;&#039;&#039;leap&#039;&#039;&#039; is from any square to any other.&lt;br /&gt;
A &#039;&#039;&#039;standard move/leap&#039;&#039;&#039; is permitted onto any empty square or one occupied by a piece of a lesser rank.&lt;br /&gt;
A &#039;&#039;&#039;combat move/leap&#039;&#039;&#039; is permitted onto any empty square or one occupied by a piece of &#039;&#039;the same&#039;&#039; or lesser rank.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Any piece previously occupying the destination square of a move/leap is destroyed. You may destroy your own pieces.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=== Setup ===&lt;br /&gt;
Each player receives 3 cards from their personal deck, plus 2 Legendary Beings and one flare from the common decks. Four cards are drawn for the task queue. The first three are immediately available; the fourth is not yet available. Three tasks of the same type may not be active at once (BGA automatically enforces this rule).&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=== Turns ===&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The starting player takes a single action. In subsequent turns, each player takes two actions. These may be any of the following:&lt;br /&gt;
* - Place a common piece on any empty square&lt;br /&gt;
* - Summon a being&lt;br /&gt;
* - Discard a card and (optionally) return other cards to the bottom of their decks. &#039;&#039;(Only permitted once per turn.)&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
In addition, before or after any action, a flare may be played, if one or both of its conditions are met.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Once a turn is over:&lt;br /&gt;
* - You may claim one task card and earn its victory points (VPs) if you meet its conditions. &lt;br /&gt;
* - If necessary, replenish your hand from the appropriate decks and update the task queue. (Automated on BGA.)&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=== Playing a Flare ===&lt;br /&gt;
Each flare lists two numbers: X/Y. The top effect may be activated if a player has X fewer upgraded pieces on the board than their opponent; the bottom effect if they have Y fewer pieces in total on the board. Effects activate in top-to-bottom order.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=== Summoning ===&lt;br /&gt;
If your pieces are in the formation on a Being’s card (in any orientation or mirror image), you may summon the piece in the top left corner, via a combat leap onto the white square in the pattern. For most beings, the white square is empty, but some require a piece of your own to be present in the square. Once the Being is summoned, the effects listed on its card are activated.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Patterns for Legendary Beings require one or more heroic pieces. Each legendary piece on the board earns 1 VP. Each player can place a maximum of 3 legendary pieces on the board. If one is destroyed, 1 VP is lost.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=== Discarding ===&lt;br /&gt;
Once per turn a player may discard a card. They may also return as many other cards as they like (regular cards, legends, flares) to the bottom of the appropriate decks. Once the turn is over, they replenish their hand as usual. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=== Running Out of Pieces ===&lt;br /&gt;
If a player needs to place a piece and has no more in stock, they must pick up one from the board before placing the new piece. (Heroic and common pieces come from the same pool--in the original boardgame, they are reverse sides of the same piece--but there are only three legendary pieces for each colour.)&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=== Game End and Scoring ===&lt;br /&gt;
When one player scores 9 VPs or draws the last card from their own deck, game end is triggered. Everyone plays one more turn, including the player who triggered endgame. Even if their score decreases below 9 due to destruction of a legendary piece, the game still ends.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
High score wins. Tiebreakers are, in order, (1) number of upgraded pieces; (2) total number of pieces.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== DEATHMATCH RULES: TWO PLAYERS (DUEL) ==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
No tasks are used. Opening positions are marked on the game board. The first player to score 18 VPs triggers the endgame. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Destroying pieces scores VPs as follows:&lt;br /&gt;
* - 1 VP for every 2 common pieces, rounded down&lt;br /&gt;
* - 1 VP for a heroic piece&lt;br /&gt;
* - 2 VPs for a legendary piece&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Summoning a legend scores 1 VP. This VP is not lost if the piece is later destroyed.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
If you play a flare your opponent gains 1 VP.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== DEATHMATCH RULES: THREE OR FOUR PLAYERS ==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Setup: In three-player Deathmatch, the third player places one common piece adjacent to each diamond symbol. In four-player Deathmatch, the fourth player places one common piece adjacent to each diamond symbol for the first, third and fourth players. As usual, the first player only gets one action. (Sounds complicated? Don&#039;t worry, BGA automates the setup.)&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Scores are tracked separately in each colour. Your final score is the lowest of these scores. (The second and, in 4-player games, third lowest scores are used as tiebreakers.)&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
When you score common pieces, first all common colour pairs are scored; then, if two common pieces of different colours remain, you may choose which colour to score against.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
When you summon a legend, you may choose which opponent to score 1 VP against.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
You may meet one or both criteria for a flare against multiple opponents, in which case you may choose whom to trigger it against (and give them 1 VP).&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Endgame is triggered by a player scoring 12 (for three-player) or 10 (for four-player) VPs in a single colour.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=== Improvised Summoning ===&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Once per game, and once for each opponent&#039;s colour, a player may use an opponent&#039;s piece as their own when summoning a Being. (Thus in a 3-player game, a player may perform two improvised summonings; in a 4-player game, three--one for each opponent&#039;s colour.) Only one piece may be used per improvised summoning: you may not use two different opponents&#039; pieces simultaneously.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== EVERFROST EXPANSION ==&lt;br /&gt;
Several Beings in the Everfrost deck have &amp;quot;frozen effects&amp;quot;. These effects do not have to take place immediately upon summoning; they can be activated later (&amp;quot;thawed&amp;quot;), like a flare. Only one such frozen effect may be stored at a time; if you summon a Being with a frozen effect and already have one in storage, you must discard one or the other frozen effect.&lt;/div&gt;</summary>
		<author><name>Nandblock</name></author>
	</entry>
	<entry>
		<id>https://gl.doc.boardgamearena.com/index.php?title=Gamehelpraceforthegalaxy&amp;diff=2623</id>
		<title>Gamehelpraceforthegalaxy</title>
		<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="https://gl.doc.boardgamearena.com/index.php?title=Gamehelpraceforthegalaxy&amp;diff=2623"/>
		<updated>2017-08-04T17:18:27Z</updated>

		<summary type="html">&lt;p&gt;Nandblock: &lt;/p&gt;
&lt;hr /&gt;
&lt;div&gt;== Rules for the Base Game ==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Players control competing civilizations exploring space, discovering planets to conquer or settle, building an economy by consuming a planet&#039;s goods and building developments. The object of the game is to earn the most victory points from planets and developments played in their tableau, from consuming goods, and from bonuses from special developments.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
There are five phases to choose from: explore, develop, settle, consume and produce. Players pick one phase per turn (two phases in a two-player game). Then everyone plays only the chosen phases in phase order.  Players who chose that phase get an extra benefit.  At the end of each round, players with more than 10 cards discard down to 10 and a new round begins.  &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The game continues until any player has 12 cards in their tableau, or when the VP pool is exhausted. At the end of that round points are added up. The player with the most points is the winner!  &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
In case of a tie, the player with the most goods on the board plus cards in hand wins.   &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Cards may generally be played into your tableau by &amp;quot;paying&amp;quot; for them by discarding other cards. For instance, a planet of cost 3 (the large number) requires you to discard 3 cards to place it. (The smaller number next to it is the number of VPs you earn from having that card in your tableau.)&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
There are different types of planets:&lt;br /&gt;
 Production: A colored circle indicates that this planet generates the corresponding good during the production phase.&lt;br /&gt;
 Windfall: A white circle with a colored ring indicates that this planet generates a good immediately upon settling, but not during production.&lt;br /&gt;
 Non-producing worlds: Gray worlds never produce goods.&lt;br /&gt;
 Military: A red ring indicates that a planet cannot be settled by paying for it: instead, you need a sufficient military force (the red +X number present on some cards). No discards are needed in this case.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;Summary of Phases&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
 Explore = draw 2 cards; keep 1, discard the other&lt;br /&gt;
 Develop = place and pay for a development&lt;br /&gt;
 Settle = place and pay for a world, receiving any windfall good as indicated&lt;br /&gt;
 Consume = use consume powers if possible, typically to discard goods for VPs. Note that once a consume power is activated, you must exhaust it (e.g. if you have 3 Novelty Goods, then if you trigger Consumer Markets to consume the first good, then the other two must also be consumed on Consumer Markets). To consume a good in the BGA interface, click on the world with the good, and then click on the world with the consume power. &lt;br /&gt;
 Produce = place a good on each world without a good that produces one&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Most cards indicate bonuses for certain phases; these are activated once they are in your tableau.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;Phase Bonuses&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
 These are the bonuses you gain for choosing each phase:&lt;br /&gt;
 Explore = draw 5 additional cards OR draw 1 additional card and keep 1 additional card&lt;br /&gt;
 Develop = discard 1 less card when paying for the development&lt;br /&gt;
 Settle = draw 1 card after settling a world&lt;br /&gt;
 Consume = Gain double victory points for consumed goods OR trigger a trade phase prior to Consume, which allows you to discard a good to draw cards equal to its trade value&lt;br /&gt;
 Produce = Produce a good on one windfall world that does not already have a good&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Note that in two-player games it is possible for one player to trigger both phase bonuses in Explore or Consume (e.g. in Explore, to draw 6 extra cards and keep 2), but the phase only happens once. It is not possible to trigger Produce twice. It is possible to trigger Develop or Settle twice, in which case the phase happens twice in a row.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;Summary of Goods&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
 Yellow = Alien Tech (trade value = 5)&lt;br /&gt;
 Green = Genes (4)&lt;br /&gt;
 Brown = Rare Elements (3)&lt;br /&gt;
 Blue = Novelty Goods (2)&lt;/div&gt;</summary>
		<author><name>Nandblock</name></author>
	</entry>
	<entry>
		<id>https://gl.doc.boardgamearena.com/index.php?title=Tips_madeira&amp;diff=2622</id>
		<title>Tips madeira</title>
		<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="https://gl.doc.boardgamearena.com/index.php?title=Tips_madeira&amp;diff=2622"/>
		<updated>2017-08-02T03:37:14Z</updated>

		<summary type="html">&lt;p&gt;Nandblock: &lt;/p&gt;
&lt;hr /&gt;
&lt;div&gt;== Worker Placement ==&lt;br /&gt;
You need at least one worker in Regions 2 and 3 most of the time, as the building actions here are vital to winning; and in the forest. Whether you wish to keep one or more workers in Region 1 will depend in part on how heavily you plan to invest in colonists, since it has only one building to activate.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;Region 1:&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
:&#039;&#039;Alfândega (Customs)&#039;&#039;: By having colonists, you save yourself having to take harvest actions; in addition, it is a steady source of PP if you have ships in the colonies. This strategy works well with the Expeditions Crown Request, but requires that you have fewer workers in the fields or cities, so try to pick up compensating guild favors (Engineer, Diplomat).&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;Region 2:&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
:&#039;&#039;Moinho (Mill)&#039;&#039;: A reliable end-of-round source of 5 bread, if you have 3 workers in this region.&lt;br /&gt;
:&#039;&#039;Capitania (Captaincy)&#039;&#039;: The main way to move workers into the city. If you have 3 workers in the region, you can earn an easy 15 points over 5 rounds.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;Region 3:&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
:&#039;&#039;Casa da Coroa (Guild Palace)&#039;&#039;: Important once you have accumulated guild favours.&lt;br /&gt;
:&#039;&#039;Fortaleza (Watch Tower)&#039;&#039;: The most powerful building on the board; it is a rare round that you will not want to place a guild die here. Placing one or two workers in the City Watch accomplishes 3 things simultaneously: discarding pirates, enabling you to use pirate die, and scoring 4 VPs if you have a majority in the Honor phase.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== Getting and Losing Pirates ==&lt;br /&gt;
There are two main approaches to pirates: (1) try to avoid having any by game-end (thus handing your opponent a large point penalty if they did not discard their own pirates); (2) try to score so much without paying building/maintenance costs that the 16-point penalty for having most pirates is of little concern. (Try to avoid the extra penalty for having more than 20 pirates, in any case.)&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
It is quite possible to discard all pirates by game-end. To play optimally, however, you will need to take pirates in opening rounds in order to conserve money, bread or wood, then discard them later. It is rarely possible to achieve much in the game while paying everything as you go.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The main way of discarding pirates is placing workers in the City Watch, via Fortaleza or other means (Scout, the 3rd passing favour, the King&#039;s favour). All these actions discard 3 pirates (or 6 if you activate Fortaleza&#039;s stronger ability). Therefore, as you approach the endgame, make sure you have an even multiple of 3 pirates. (Constable allows you to discard half your pirates; it is the only exception to the rule of 3. If you are going for a pirate-heavy strategy, grab this favour.)&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Putting a guild die on Fortaleza (if you have workers in Region 3) lets you skip paying for earlier building actions, then discard the resulting pirates at Fortaleza: an efficient way to conserve money if you don&#039;t need some earlier building actions.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== Picking Up Points Along the Way ==&lt;br /&gt;
It is important to pick up a few points every round, not just rounds 1/3/5. There are 3 buildings that potentially give you points, one per region: 4 points for majority in the watch; 1 point per ship for sending a worker to a colony; 1 or 3 points for the cities. Those points will stack up across 5 rounds, if you can consistently snag one or two of these per round. There are also a few guild favours that help, notably the Scout and Lady (plus passing areas II and III, plus some King&#039;s Favors).&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== Wood and Bread ==&lt;br /&gt;
Never start a round without bread, as you need it to modify dice. Take a few pirates if necessary to hang on to some bread.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Never discard wood in the first few rounds of the game when maintaining your ships: take a few pirates instead. It is simply too precious to waste, as you need it for guild favors. Unlike bread, small quantities of wood may be purchased as long as you have access, so make sure you have enough reals on hand to make up the difference (or use the Windmill).&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== The Windmill ==&lt;br /&gt;
Do not neglect to use the Windmill to trade goods, gain bread, etc. Whenever you can, especially early in the game, move up the Windmill to conserve bread. (The Miller guild favour is especially useful for this.)&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== Guild Favors ==&lt;br /&gt;
Obtaining these is crucial to your game: do not neglect to collect and use them. Let them shape your strategy--for instance, if you get Diplomat or Engineer, you can leave more workers in the colonies while still being able to take powerful building actions or make decent harvests. If you get Lord, you&#039;ll be able to save money on building actions, so Wealth of Nations becomes easy to fulfill.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== Passing ==&lt;br /&gt;
More actions is not necessarily better: try to pass early, once you&#039;ve completed all actions you absolutely must do. Unless you urgently need an action lower on the passing column, grab as high a spot as possible. Consider taking the 2 reals to guarantee first pick of dice, request, and guild to unflip.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== Crown Requests ==&lt;br /&gt;
When selecting crown requests, consider whether they work well together, what round you will fulfill them in, and what requests will be left unclaimed for future rounds. In general, avoid ending up with multiple copies of the same request in Round 5, as the 2nd copy will usually score little or nothing; the exception is Wealth of Nations if you&#039;re rolling in cash.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
: &#039;&#039;Urbanization&#039;&#039; (city workers) is the most useful request, in Round 1 especially, as you are guaranteed to score some points with no effort, and scoring 12 or 15 points is relatively easy.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
: &#039;&#039;Wealth of the Nations&#039;&#039; (money) is easy to fulfill, but keep in mind in Round 5 it effectively nets only 12 points maximum (since 15 reals = 3 points in final scoring). However, it is handy in later rounds because unlike all other requests, duplicates are easy to fulfill for a full 15 points, as long as you have a good source of money.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
: &#039;&#039;Influence of the Guilds&#039;&#039; can yield 15 or 20 points in Rounds 3 and 5, the highest potential return on a single request.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
: &#039;&#039;Market Routes&#039;&#039; and &#039;&#039;Expeditions&#039;&#039; both score up to 18 points. Avoid having to fulfill them simultaneously in Rounds 3 or 5; the wood/money upkeep on 6 ships simultaneously in play is onerous.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
It is helpful to have complementary requests in hand: Market Routes + Wealth of the Nations (trade routes get you money); Influence of the Guilds + Urbanization (claiming Guild favours clears space for urbanization).&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== Endgame ==&lt;br /&gt;
Keep in mind that you need to marshal your resources carefully in endgame--hopefully by this point you have an engine for making money while also discarding pirates. Depending on your setup, you want a max of 3 or 6 pirates by the time you reach Fortaleza. Keep in mind that if you don&#039;t have enough wood and bread on hand at game-end, you will take a lot of last-minute pirates: a small shortfall in wood is not fatal (as you can pay for it), but a shortfall in bread cannot be made up, so make sure your position on the windmill + available bread is sufficient. (Also: start moving workers off the board to conserve bread in the last round: use Watch dice, or obtain a Watch majority and remove a worker for 4 PP).&lt;/div&gt;</summary>
		<author><name>Nandblock</name></author>
	</entry>
	<entry>
		<id>https://gl.doc.boardgamearena.com/index.php?title=Tips_tashkalar&amp;diff=2595</id>
		<title>Tips tashkalar</title>
		<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="https://gl.doc.boardgamearena.com/index.php?title=Tips_tashkalar&amp;diff=2595"/>
		<updated>2017-07-30T22:34:58Z</updated>

		<summary type="html">&lt;p&gt;Nandblock: /* High Form Strategy */&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;hr /&gt;
&lt;div&gt;== High Form Strategy ==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;1) Board Management&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;Keep your piece-count down.&#039;&#039; If a piece of your own is not helping your position and you have a chance to destroy it, do so rather than destroying an enemy piece--this puts you rather than them closer to a flare. If you&#039;re ahead in the game and your piece count is high, consider discarding cards or summoning a being on top of your own piece (oversummoning) to avoid placing another piece on the board.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;Keep your pieces together.&#039;&#039; If your position is dispersed, those pieces will add to your piece-count, making it impossible to get a life-saving flare while being useless for summoning or claiming tasks.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;Place pieces on or around coloured squares by preference.&#039;&#039; Even if there&#039;s no coloured summoning/conquest task on the board, one will eventually pop up. (Caveat: do not casually leave pieces on red squares if you are playing against Highland and they haven&#039;t yet played Blood Shaman.)&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;Do not let your opponent set up camp far away from you.&#039;&#039; Make sure you are always able to destroy a piece or two of theirs.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;2) Hand Management&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;Play or discard cards rather than letting them go stale.&#039;&#039; Don&#039;t grow too attached to a card unless you&#039;re absolutely sure you need to use it soon to accomplish a task. If it&#039;s not helping you, get rid of it by summoning it, even if you can&#039;t trigger its effects, or discarding it. The smaller your deck, the more precise your endgame play will be, as you will know with certainty what you will draw; and if you cannot score 9 points, you want to be the person who triggers the endgame by running out of cards. -- By discarding you can also get rid of a flare that is hard to trigger, or Legends that are not useful. It also improves the precision of your endgame if you use the opportunity to place one or two cards on the bottom of your deck.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;Anticipate key cards in your deck.&#039;&#039; Don&#039;t just set up existing patterns in your hand (though do that too!); if you know a useful card is in your deck, try to keep a few pieces on the board that will help you achieve that pattern. It might be the next card you draw. (E.g. if you have the Highland deck, try to maintain a few pieces at the corners of a green square in anticipation of Ritual Master, or a bow-shape for Warlord / Eagle Lord.) When you&#039;re just starting out, it is impossible to remember all the cards, but be aware of the most powerful and disruptive ones: Hypnotist and Bomb (North/South Empire); Everfrost Sentinel; Blood Shaman and Ritual Master (Highland); Forest Ancient (Sylvan); and Leviathan and Time Elemental (Legends).&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;Track the cards.&#039;&#039; If you are playing a turn-based game, use the Notes feature of BGA to keep track of both your cards and your opponent&#039;s.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;Learn the decks and Legendary Beings.&#039;&#039; To reiterate: as a beginner, &#039;&#039;do not worry about memorizing every single card!&#039;&#039; But eventually you will need to be able to recognize patterns that your opponent is trying to form, and know what&#039;s coming up in your own deck that might be useful.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;3) Flares&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;Be wary of flares.&#039;&#039; A typical beginner&#039;s mistake is to assume that accumulating more pieces than your opponent, and destroying many of your opponent&#039;s pieces, is a good idea. But &#039;&#039;&#039;this brute-force approach will usually lose the game,&#039;&#039;&#039; because it gives an opponent the opportunity to flare every turn. Extra actions are extremely valuable in Tash-Kalar--often they are the deciding factor in claiming a task or totally reshaping the board--so don&#039;t let your opponent get flares easily. If you are ahead in piece-count, try to stay ahead by a maximum of 2 heroic pieces and 3 pieces in total--this guarantees that only one flare (the 2/5 one) is playable. If you must exceed that limit, avoid triggering top and bottom flares at once. (The upper number on flares ranges from 2 to 5; the lower number from 4 to 6.) None of the bottom-4 flares are big game-changing ones; but several top-3 flares are powerful, so if you&#039;re going to risk triggering one, go ahead 2/4 rather than 3/3 by preference.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;Play your flare!&#039;&#039; If you can play it, the vast majority of the time you should. This is true even if it does nothing helpful--in that case, play it simply to discard it and get a more useful one in return.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;4) Tasks, Legends, and Scoring&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;Prioritize 1- and 2-point tasks, not 3-pointers and Legends.&#039;&#039; In particular, Side Chain and Corner Chain are very difficult to achieve without an exorbitant cost. Legends are good but since the 1 point they give is no better than an easily achievable 1-point task, and can be taken away from you, they should not be a major priority unless they help accomplish a task. You need to claim very easy tasks before your opponent does, as they stack up quickly--in particular, never leave End of Legends, Heroic Destruction or Rainbow Domination unclaimed for long, as they are the easiest 2-point tasks to claim.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;5) Opening Moves&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
In general (though this advice is dependent on your initial draw and the first tasks available), place your first pieces near the centre but somewhat off-centre, and in the vicinity of coloured squares. This maximizes control of the board, positional flexibility, and ability to engage in direct conflict or move away from it. If your hand is full of 2- and 3-piece patterns, being right next to your opponent&#039;s pieces is good, as you will be able to destroy their pieces easily. If it&#039;s full of 4- and 5-piece patterns, keep more distance at first.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;6) Patience&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Tash-Kalar games tend to have a dramatic mid-game &amp;quot;bounce&amp;quot;: it is very hard to hang on to an early lead, because the player in the lead will have typically grabbed all the tasks they can easily grab, used their best cards, and be on the verge of giving up flares. If you are behind, even by a substantial number of points, do not give in easily, especially since you will have a more precise sense of what&#039;s in your deck and your opponent&#039;s and can plan accordingly. If you are ahead, be wary: start reducing your piece-count, and if you have a strong lead, summon (or discard) Beings as much as possible to hasten the endgame.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== Cards ==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Here is a full list of all cards in Tash-Kalar&#039;s BGA implementation (numbers denote the pieces in the pattern):&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;IMPERIAL&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
* 2: Messenger, Swordmaster, Bomb&lt;br /&gt;
* 3: Chronicler, Herald, High Priestess, Summoner, Cannon, Assassin&lt;br /&gt;
* 4: Gryphon Rider, Knight, Master of Intrigue, Cavalry Captain, Infantry Captain, Champion, Time Mage, Gun Tower, Hypnotist&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;SYLVAN&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
* 2: Sapling, Kiskin Farseeders, Forest Wardens&lt;br /&gt;
* 3: Naiad, Charging Buck, Kiskin Spirit, Dryad, Forest Mystic, Sylvan Princess, Woodland Druid&lt;br /&gt;
* 4: Unicorn, Kiskin Boughrunner, Kiskin Leafsplitter, Centaur Spearman, Forest Ancient, Centaur Chieftain, Sylvan Queen, Tree Shepherd&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;HIGHLAND&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
* 2: Ritual Keeper, Wild Eagle, Clan Axeman&lt;br /&gt;
* 3: Dire Wolf, Clan Healer, Clan Guardian, Ritual Master, Hungry Bear&lt;br /&gt;
* 4: Wolf Rider, Mountain Troll, Hill Giant, Eagle Lord, War Summoner, War Drummer, Legend Slayer, Blood Shaman, Werewolf&lt;br /&gt;
* 5: Warlord&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;EVERFROST&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
* 2: Snow Fox, Crystal Mirror, Crystal Grower&lt;br /&gt;
* 3: Ice Princess, Royal Reindeer, Frostweave Illusionist, Frostweave Summoner, Frost Imp, Frozen Chest&lt;br /&gt;
* 4: Winter Whisperer, Glacier Giant, Ice Queen, Ice Wyvern, Everfrost Sentinel, Deathbringer, War Sled, Polar Bear, Snow Monster&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;LEGENDS&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
* Time Elemental, Earth Elemental, Fire Elemental, Storm Elemental, Leviathan, Hell Bull, Angel of Death, Two-Headed Dragon, Fire Dragon, Titan, Bone Catapult&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;FLARES&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Symbols:&lt;br /&gt;
* m = standard move; x = combat move&lt;br /&gt;
* ^ = standard leap; x^ = combat leap &lt;br /&gt;
* + = upgrade; A = gain action&lt;br /&gt;
* no sign = place&lt;br /&gt;
* H = heroic; C = common; P = any non-legendary piece&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Cards:&lt;br /&gt;
* 2 / 5 : ^C / A&lt;br /&gt;
* 3 / 4 : C / xP or mPP&lt;br /&gt;
* 3 / 5 : mCCC / A&lt;br /&gt;
* 3 / 6 : mC or +C / CC&lt;br /&gt;
* 3 / 6 : C / H&lt;br /&gt;
* 4 / 4 : C / C&lt;br /&gt;
* 4 / 4 : C or +C / x^C&lt;br /&gt;
* 4 / 6 : C / +C and A &lt;br /&gt;
* 4 / 5 : A / C&lt;br /&gt;
* 4 / 5 : C / C or convert enemy C&lt;br /&gt;
* 5 / 4 : H / mC xC&lt;br /&gt;
* 5 / 5 : CC / C&lt;/div&gt;</summary>
		<author><name>Nandblock</name></author>
	</entry>
	<entry>
		<id>https://gl.doc.boardgamearena.com/index.php?title=Tips_madeira&amp;diff=2562</id>
		<title>Tips madeira</title>
		<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="https://gl.doc.boardgamearena.com/index.php?title=Tips_madeira&amp;diff=2562"/>
		<updated>2017-07-18T04:30:07Z</updated>

		<summary type="html">&lt;p&gt;Nandblock: /* Worker Placement */&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;hr /&gt;
&lt;div&gt;== Worker Placement ==&lt;br /&gt;
You need at least one worker in Regions 2 and 3 most of the time, as the building actions here are vital to winning; and in the forest. Whether you wish to keep one or more workers in Region 1 will depend in part on how heavily you plan to invest in colonists, since it has only one building to activate.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;Region 1:&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
:&#039;&#039;Alfândega (Customs)&#039;&#039;: By having colonists, you save yourself having to take harvest actions; in addition, it is a steady source of PP if you have ships in the colonies. This strategy works well with the Expeditions Crown Request, but requires that you have fewer workers in the fields or cities, so try to pick up compensating guild favors (Engineer, Diplomat).&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;Region 2:&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
:&#039;&#039;Moinho (Mill)&#039;&#039;: A reliable end-of-round source of 5 bread, if you have 3 workers in this region.&lt;br /&gt;
:&#039;&#039;Capitania (Captaincy)&#039;&#039;: The main way to move workers into the city. If you have 3 workers in the region, you can earn an easy 15 points over 5 rounds.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;Region 3:&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
:&#039;&#039;Casa da Coroa (Guild Palace)&#039;&#039;: Important once you have accumulated guild favours.&lt;br /&gt;
:&#039;&#039;Fortaleza (Watch Tower)&#039;&#039;: The most powerful building on the board; it is a rare round that you will not want to place a guild die here. Placing one or two workers in the City Watch accomplishes 3 things simultaneously: discarding pirates, enabling you to use pirate die, and scoring 4 VPs if you have a majority in the Honor phase.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== Getting and Losing Pirates ==&lt;br /&gt;
There are two main approaches to pirates: (1) try to avoid having any by game-end (thus handing your opponent a large point penalty if they did not discard their own pirates); (2) try to score so much without paying building/maintenance costs that the 16-point penalty for having most pirates is of little concern. (Try to avoid the extra penalty for having more than 20 pirates, in any case.)&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
It is quite possible to discard all pirates by game-end. To play optimally, however, you will need to take pirates in opening rounds in order to conserve money, bread or wood, then discard them later. It is rarely possible to achieve much in the game while paying everything as you go.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The main way of discarding pirates is placing workers in the City Watch, via Fortaleza or other means (Scout, the 3rd passing favour, the King&#039;s favour). All these actions discard 3 pirates (or 6 if you activate Fortaleza&#039;s stronger ability). Therefore, as you approach the endgame, make sure you have an even multiple of 3 pirates. (Constable allows you to discard half your pirates; it is the only exception to the rule of 3. If you are going for a pirate-heavy strategy, grab this favour.)&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Putting a guild die on Fortaleza (if you have workers in Region 3) lets you skip paying for earlier building actions, then discard the resulting pirates at Fortaleza: an efficient way to conserve money if you don&#039;t need some earlier building actions.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== Picking Up Points Along the Way ==&lt;br /&gt;
It is important to pick up a few points every round, not just rounds 1/3/5. There are 3 buildings that potentially give you points, one per region: 4 points for majority in the watch; 1 point per ship for sending a worker to a colony; 1 or 3 points for the cities. Those points will stack up across 5 rounds, if you can consistently snag one or two of these per round. There are also a few guild favours that help, notably the Scout and Lady (plus passing areas II and III, plus some King&#039;s Favors).&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== Wood and Bread ==&lt;br /&gt;
Never start a round without bread, as you need it to modify dice. Take a few pirates if necessary to hang on to some bread.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Never discard wood in the first few rounds of the game when maintaining your ships: take a few pirates instead. It is simply too precious to waste, as you need it for guild favors. Unlike bread, small quantities of wood may be purchased as long as you have access, so make sure you have enough reals on hand to make up the difference (or use the Windmill).&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== The Windmill ==&lt;br /&gt;
Do not neglect to use the Windmill to trade goods, gain bread, etc. Whenever you can, especially early in the game, move up the Windmill to conserve bread. (The Miller guild favour is especially useful for this.)&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== Passing ==&lt;br /&gt;
More actions is not necessarily better: try to pass early, once you&#039;ve completed all actions you absolutely must do. Unless you urgently need an action lower on the passing column, grab as high a spot as possible. Consider taking the 2 reals to guarantee first pick of dice, request, and guild to unflip.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== Crown Requests ==&lt;br /&gt;
When selecting crown requests, consider whether they work well together, what round you will fulfill them in, and what requests will be left unclaimed for future rounds. In general, avoid ending up with multiple copies of the same request in Round 5, as the 2nd copy will usually score little or nothing; the exception is Wealth of Nations if you&#039;re rolling in cash.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
: &#039;&#039;Urbanization&#039;&#039; (city workers) is the most useful request, in Round 1 especially, as you are guaranteed to score some points with no effort, and scoring 12 or 15 is relatively easy.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
: &#039;&#039;Wealth of the Nations&#039;&#039; (money) is relatively easy to fulfill, but keep in mind in Round 5 it effectively nets only 12 points maximum (since 15 reals = 3 points in final scoring).&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
: &#039;&#039;Influence of the Guilds&#039;&#039; can yield 15 or 20 points in Rounds 3 and 5, the highest potential return on a single request. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
: &#039;&#039;Market Routes&#039;&#039; and &#039;&#039;Expeditions&#039;&#039; both score up to 18 points. Avoid having to fulfill them simultaneously in Round 3 or 5; the wood/money upkeep on 6 ships simultaneously in play is onerous.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
It is helpful to have complementary requests in hand: Market Routes + Wealth of the Nations (trade routes get you money); Influence of the Guilds + Urbanization (claiming Guild favours clears space for urbanization).&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== Endgame ==&lt;br /&gt;
Keep in mind that you need to marshal your resources carefully in endgame--hopefully by this point you have an engine for making money while also discarding pirates. Depending on your setup, you want a max of 3 or 6 pirates by the time you reach Fortaleza. Keep in mind that if you don&#039;t have enough wood and bread on hand at game-end, you will take a lot of last-minute pirates: a small shortfall in wood is not fatal (as you can pay for it), but a shortfall in bread cannot be made up, so make sure your position on the windmill + available bread is sufficient. (Also: start moving workers off the board to conserve bread in the last round: use Watch dice, or obtain a Watch majority and remove a worker for 4 PP).&lt;/div&gt;</summary>
		<author><name>Nandblock</name></author>
	</entry>
	<entry>
		<id>https://gl.doc.boardgamearena.com/index.php?title=Tips_madeira&amp;diff=2561</id>
		<title>Tips madeira</title>
		<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="https://gl.doc.boardgamearena.com/index.php?title=Tips_madeira&amp;diff=2561"/>
		<updated>2017-07-18T04:28:06Z</updated>

		<summary type="html">&lt;p&gt;Nandblock: /* Picking Up Points Along the Way */&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;hr /&gt;
&lt;div&gt;== Worker Placement ==&lt;br /&gt;
You need at least one worker in Regions 2 and 3 most of the time, as the building actions here are vital to winning; and in the forest. Whether you wish to keep one or more workers in Region 1 will depend in part on how heavily you plan to invest in colonists, since it has only one building to activate.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;Region 1:&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
:&#039;&#039;Alfândega (Customs)&#039;&#039;: By having colonists, you save yourself having to take harvest actions; in addition, it is a steady source of PP if you have ships in the colonies. This strategy works well with the Expeditions Crown Request.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;Region 2:&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
:&#039;&#039;Moinho (Mill)&#039;&#039;: A reliable end-of-round source of 5 bread, if you have 3 workers in this region.&lt;br /&gt;
:&#039;&#039;Capitania (Captaincy)&#039;&#039;: The main way to move workers into the city. If you have 3 workers in the region, you can earn an easy 15 points over 5 rounds.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;Region 3:&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
:&#039;&#039;Casa da Coroa (Guild Palace)&#039;&#039;: Important once you have accumulated guild favours.&lt;br /&gt;
:&#039;&#039;Fortaleza (Watch Tower)&#039;&#039;: The most powerful building on the board; it is a rare round that you will not want to place a guild die here. Placing one or two workers in the City Watch accomplishes 3 things simultaneously: discarding pirates, enabling you to use pirate die, and scoring 4 VPs if you have a majority in the Honor phase.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== Getting and Losing Pirates ==&lt;br /&gt;
There are two main approaches to pirates: (1) try to avoid having any by game-end (thus handing your opponent a large point penalty if they did not discard their own pirates); (2) try to score so much without paying building/maintenance costs that the 16-point penalty for having most pirates is of little concern. (Try to avoid the extra penalty for having more than 20 pirates, in any case.)&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
It is quite possible to discard all pirates by game-end. To play optimally, however, you will need to take pirates in opening rounds in order to conserve money, bread or wood, then discard them later. It is rarely possible to achieve much in the game while paying everything as you go.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The main way of discarding pirates is placing workers in the City Watch, via Fortaleza or other means (Scout, the 3rd passing favour, the King&#039;s favour). All these actions discard 3 pirates (or 6 if you activate Fortaleza&#039;s stronger ability). Therefore, as you approach the endgame, make sure you have an even multiple of 3 pirates. (Constable allows you to discard half your pirates; it is the only exception to the rule of 3. If you are going for a pirate-heavy strategy, grab this favour.)&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Putting a guild die on Fortaleza (if you have workers in Region 3) lets you skip paying for earlier building actions, then discard the resulting pirates at Fortaleza: an efficient way to conserve money if you don&#039;t need some earlier building actions.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== Picking Up Points Along the Way ==&lt;br /&gt;
It is important to pick up a few points every round, not just rounds 1/3/5. There are 3 buildings that potentially give you points, one per region: 4 points for majority in the watch; 1 point per ship for sending a worker to a colony; 1 or 3 points for the cities. Those points will stack up across 5 rounds, if you can consistently snag one or two of these per round. There are also a few guild favours that help, notably the Scout and Lady (plus passing areas II and III, plus some King&#039;s Favors).&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== Wood and Bread ==&lt;br /&gt;
Never start a round without bread, as you need it to modify dice. Take a few pirates if necessary to hang on to some bread.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Never discard wood in the first few rounds of the game when maintaining your ships: take a few pirates instead. It is simply too precious to waste, as you need it for guild favors. Unlike bread, small quantities of wood may be purchased as long as you have access, so make sure you have enough reals on hand to make up the difference (or use the Windmill).&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== The Windmill ==&lt;br /&gt;
Do not neglect to use the Windmill to trade goods, gain bread, etc. Whenever you can, especially early in the game, move up the Windmill to conserve bread. (The Miller guild favour is especially useful for this.)&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== Passing ==&lt;br /&gt;
More actions is not necessarily better: try to pass early, once you&#039;ve completed all actions you absolutely must do. Unless you urgently need an action lower on the passing column, grab as high a spot as possible. Consider taking the 2 reals to guarantee first pick of dice, request, and guild to unflip.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== Crown Requests ==&lt;br /&gt;
When selecting crown requests, consider whether they work well together, what round you will fulfill them in, and what requests will be left unclaimed for future rounds. In general, avoid ending up with multiple copies of the same request in Round 5, as the 2nd copy will usually score little or nothing; the exception is Wealth of Nations if you&#039;re rolling in cash.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
: &#039;&#039;Urbanization&#039;&#039; (city workers) is the most useful request, in Round 1 especially, as you are guaranteed to score some points with no effort, and scoring 12 or 15 is relatively easy.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
: &#039;&#039;Wealth of the Nations&#039;&#039; (money) is relatively easy to fulfill, but keep in mind in Round 5 it effectively nets only 12 points maximum (since 15 reals = 3 points in final scoring).&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
: &#039;&#039;Influence of the Guilds&#039;&#039; can yield 15 or 20 points in Rounds 3 and 5, the highest potential return on a single request. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
: &#039;&#039;Market Routes&#039;&#039; and &#039;&#039;Expeditions&#039;&#039; both score up to 18 points. Avoid having to fulfill them simultaneously in Round 3 or 5; the wood/money upkeep on 6 ships simultaneously in play is onerous.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
It is helpful to have complementary requests in hand: Market Routes + Wealth of the Nations (trade routes get you money); Influence of the Guilds + Urbanization (claiming Guild favours clears space for urbanization).&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== Endgame ==&lt;br /&gt;
Keep in mind that you need to marshal your resources carefully in endgame--hopefully by this point you have an engine for making money while also discarding pirates. Depending on your setup, you want a max of 3 or 6 pirates by the time you reach Fortaleza. Keep in mind that if you don&#039;t have enough wood and bread on hand at game-end, you will take a lot of last-minute pirates: a small shortfall in wood is not fatal (as you can pay for it), but a shortfall in bread cannot be made up, so make sure your position on the windmill + available bread is sufficient. (Also: start moving workers off the board to conserve bread in the last round: use Watch dice, or obtain a Watch majority and remove a worker for 4 PP).&lt;/div&gt;</summary>
		<author><name>Nandblock</name></author>
	</entry>
	<entry>
		<id>https://gl.doc.boardgamearena.com/index.php?title=Tips_madeira&amp;diff=2560</id>
		<title>Tips madeira</title>
		<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="https://gl.doc.boardgamearena.com/index.php?title=Tips_madeira&amp;diff=2560"/>
		<updated>2017-07-18T04:27:29Z</updated>

		<summary type="html">&lt;p&gt;Nandblock: /* Picking Up Points Along the Way */&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;hr /&gt;
&lt;div&gt;== Worker Placement ==&lt;br /&gt;
You need at least one worker in Regions 2 and 3 most of the time, as the building actions here are vital to winning; and in the forest. Whether you wish to keep one or more workers in Region 1 will depend in part on how heavily you plan to invest in colonists, since it has only one building to activate.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;Region 1:&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
:&#039;&#039;Alfândega (Customs)&#039;&#039;: By having colonists, you save yourself having to take harvest actions; in addition, it is a steady source of PP if you have ships in the colonies. This strategy works well with the Expeditions Crown Request.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;Region 2:&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
:&#039;&#039;Moinho (Mill)&#039;&#039;: A reliable end-of-round source of 5 bread, if you have 3 workers in this region.&lt;br /&gt;
:&#039;&#039;Capitania (Captaincy)&#039;&#039;: The main way to move workers into the city. If you have 3 workers in the region, you can earn an easy 15 points over 5 rounds.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;Region 3:&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
:&#039;&#039;Casa da Coroa (Guild Palace)&#039;&#039;: Important once you have accumulated guild favours.&lt;br /&gt;
:&#039;&#039;Fortaleza (Watch Tower)&#039;&#039;: The most powerful building on the board; it is a rare round that you will not want to place a guild die here. Placing one or two workers in the City Watch accomplishes 3 things simultaneously: discarding pirates, enabling you to use pirate die, and scoring 4 VPs if you have a majority in the Honor phase.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== Getting and Losing Pirates ==&lt;br /&gt;
There are two main approaches to pirates: (1) try to avoid having any by game-end (thus handing your opponent a large point penalty if they did not discard their own pirates); (2) try to score so much without paying building/maintenance costs that the 16-point penalty for having most pirates is of little concern. (Try to avoid the extra penalty for having more than 20 pirates, in any case.)&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
It is quite possible to discard all pirates by game-end. To play optimally, however, you will need to take pirates in opening rounds in order to conserve money, bread or wood, then discard them later. It is rarely possible to achieve much in the game while paying everything as you go.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The main way of discarding pirates is placing workers in the City Watch, via Fortaleza or other means (Scout, the 3rd passing favour, the King&#039;s favour). All these actions discard 3 pirates (or 6 if you activate Fortaleza&#039;s stronger ability). Therefore, as you approach the endgame, make sure you have an even multiple of 3 pirates. (Constable allows you to discard half your pirates; it is the only exception to the rule of 3. If you are going for a pirate-heavy strategy, grab this favour.)&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Putting a guild die on Fortaleza (if you have workers in Region 3) lets you skip paying for earlier building actions, then discard the resulting pirates at Fortaleza: an efficient way to conserve money if you don&#039;t need some earlier building actions.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== Picking Up Points Along the Way ==&lt;br /&gt;
It is important to pick up a few points every round, not just rounds 1/3/5. There are 3 buildings that potentially give you points, one per region: 4 points for majority in the watch; 1 point per ship for sending a guy to the colonies; 1 or 3 points for the cities. Those points will stack up across 5 rounds, if you can consistently snag one or two of these per round. There are also a few guild favours that help, notably the Scout and Lady (plus passing areas II and III, plus some King&#039;s Favors).&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== Wood and Bread ==&lt;br /&gt;
Never start a round without bread, as you need it to modify dice. Take a few pirates if necessary to hang on to some bread.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Never discard wood in the first few rounds of the game when maintaining your ships: take a few pirates instead. It is simply too precious to waste, as you need it for guild favors. Unlike bread, small quantities of wood may be purchased as long as you have access, so make sure you have enough reals on hand to make up the difference (or use the Windmill).&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== The Windmill ==&lt;br /&gt;
Do not neglect to use the Windmill to trade goods, gain bread, etc. Whenever you can, especially early in the game, move up the Windmill to conserve bread. (The Miller guild favour is especially useful for this.)&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== Passing ==&lt;br /&gt;
More actions is not necessarily better: try to pass early, once you&#039;ve completed all actions you absolutely must do. Unless you urgently need an action lower on the passing column, grab as high a spot as possible. Consider taking the 2 reals to guarantee first pick of dice, request, and guild to unflip.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== Crown Requests ==&lt;br /&gt;
When selecting crown requests, consider whether they work well together, what round you will fulfill them in, and what requests will be left unclaimed for future rounds. In general, avoid ending up with multiple copies of the same request in Round 5, as the 2nd copy will usually score little or nothing; the exception is Wealth of Nations if you&#039;re rolling in cash.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
: &#039;&#039;Urbanization&#039;&#039; (city workers) is the most useful request, in Round 1 especially, as you are guaranteed to score some points with no effort, and scoring 12 or 15 is relatively easy.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
: &#039;&#039;Wealth of the Nations&#039;&#039; (money) is relatively easy to fulfill, but keep in mind in Round 5 it effectively nets only 12 points maximum (since 15 reals = 3 points in final scoring).&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
: &#039;&#039;Influence of the Guilds&#039;&#039; can yield 15 or 20 points in Rounds 3 and 5, the highest potential return on a single request. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
: &#039;&#039;Market Routes&#039;&#039; and &#039;&#039;Expeditions&#039;&#039; both score up to 18 points. Avoid having to fulfill them simultaneously in Round 3 or 5; the wood/money upkeep on 6 ships simultaneously in play is onerous.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
It is helpful to have complementary requests in hand: Market Routes + Wealth of the Nations (trade routes get you money); Influence of the Guilds + Urbanization (claiming Guild favours clears space for urbanization).&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== Endgame ==&lt;br /&gt;
Keep in mind that you need to marshal your resources carefully in endgame--hopefully by this point you have an engine for making money while also discarding pirates. Depending on your setup, you want a max of 3 or 6 pirates by the time you reach Fortaleza. Keep in mind that if you don&#039;t have enough wood and bread on hand at game-end, you will take a lot of last-minute pirates: a small shortfall in wood is not fatal (as you can pay for it), but a shortfall in bread cannot be made up, so make sure your position on the windmill + available bread is sufficient. (Also: start moving workers off the board to conserve bread in the last round: use Watch dice, or obtain a Watch majority and remove a worker for 4 PP).&lt;/div&gt;</summary>
		<author><name>Nandblock</name></author>
	</entry>
	<entry>
		<id>https://gl.doc.boardgamearena.com/index.php?title=Tips_madeira&amp;diff=2559</id>
		<title>Tips madeira</title>
		<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="https://gl.doc.boardgamearena.com/index.php?title=Tips_madeira&amp;diff=2559"/>
		<updated>2017-07-18T04:27:01Z</updated>

		<summary type="html">&lt;p&gt;Nandblock: /* Wood and Bread */&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;hr /&gt;
&lt;div&gt;== Worker Placement ==&lt;br /&gt;
You need at least one worker in Regions 2 and 3 most of the time, as the building actions here are vital to winning; and in the forest. Whether you wish to keep one or more workers in Region 1 will depend in part on how heavily you plan to invest in colonists, since it has only one building to activate.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;Region 1:&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
:&#039;&#039;Alfândega (Customs)&#039;&#039;: By having colonists, you save yourself having to take harvest actions; in addition, it is a steady source of PP if you have ships in the colonies. This strategy works well with the Expeditions Crown Request.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;Region 2:&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
:&#039;&#039;Moinho (Mill)&#039;&#039;: A reliable end-of-round source of 5 bread, if you have 3 workers in this region.&lt;br /&gt;
:&#039;&#039;Capitania (Captaincy)&#039;&#039;: The main way to move workers into the city. If you have 3 workers in the region, you can earn an easy 15 points over 5 rounds.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;Region 3:&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
:&#039;&#039;Casa da Coroa (Guild Palace)&#039;&#039;: Important once you have accumulated guild favours.&lt;br /&gt;
:&#039;&#039;Fortaleza (Watch Tower)&#039;&#039;: The most powerful building on the board; it is a rare round that you will not want to place a guild die here. Placing one or two workers in the City Watch accomplishes 3 things simultaneously: discarding pirates, enabling you to use pirate die, and scoring 4 VPs if you have a majority in the Honor phase.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== Getting and Losing Pirates ==&lt;br /&gt;
There are two main approaches to pirates: (1) try to avoid having any by game-end (thus handing your opponent a large point penalty if they did not discard their own pirates); (2) try to score so much without paying building/maintenance costs that the 16-point penalty for having most pirates is of little concern. (Try to avoid the extra penalty for having more than 20 pirates, in any case.)&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
It is quite possible to discard all pirates by game-end. To play optimally, however, you will need to take pirates in opening rounds in order to conserve money, bread or wood, then discard them later. It is rarely possible to achieve much in the game while paying everything as you go.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The main way of discarding pirates is placing workers in the City Watch, via Fortaleza or other means (Scout, the 3rd passing favour, the King&#039;s favour). All these actions discard 3 pirates (or 6 if you activate Fortaleza&#039;s stronger ability). Therefore, as you approach the endgame, make sure you have an even multiple of 3 pirates. (Constable allows you to discard half your pirates; it is the only exception to the rule of 3. If you are going for a pirate-heavy strategy, grab this favour.)&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Putting a guild die on Fortaleza (if you have workers in Region 3) lets you skip paying for earlier building actions, then discard the resulting pirates at Fortaleza: an efficient way to conserve money if you don&#039;t need some earlier building actions.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== Picking Up Points Along the Way ==&lt;br /&gt;
It is important to pick up a few points every round, not just rounds 1/3/5. There are 3 buildings that give you points, one per region: 4 points for majority in the watch; 1 point per ship for sending a guy to the colonies; 1 or 3 points for the cities. Those points will stack up across 5 rounds, if you can consistently snag one or two of these per round. There are also a few guild favours that help, notably the Scout and Lady (plus passing areas II and III, plus some King&#039;s Favors).&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== Wood and Bread ==&lt;br /&gt;
Never start a round without bread, as you need it to modify dice. Take a few pirates if necessary to hang on to some bread.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Never discard wood in the first few rounds of the game when maintaining your ships: take a few pirates instead. It is simply too precious to waste, as you need it for guild favors. Unlike bread, small quantities of wood may be purchased as long as you have access, so make sure you have enough reals on hand to make up the difference (or use the Windmill).&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== The Windmill ==&lt;br /&gt;
Do not neglect to use the Windmill to trade goods, gain bread, etc. Whenever you can, especially early in the game, move up the Windmill to conserve bread. (The Miller guild favour is especially useful for this.)&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== Passing ==&lt;br /&gt;
More actions is not necessarily better: try to pass early, once you&#039;ve completed all actions you absolutely must do. Unless you urgently need an action lower on the passing column, grab as high a spot as possible. Consider taking the 2 reals to guarantee first pick of dice, request, and guild to unflip.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== Crown Requests ==&lt;br /&gt;
When selecting crown requests, consider whether they work well together, what round you will fulfill them in, and what requests will be left unclaimed for future rounds. In general, avoid ending up with multiple copies of the same request in Round 5, as the 2nd copy will usually score little or nothing; the exception is Wealth of Nations if you&#039;re rolling in cash.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
: &#039;&#039;Urbanization&#039;&#039; (city workers) is the most useful request, in Round 1 especially, as you are guaranteed to score some points with no effort, and scoring 12 or 15 is relatively easy.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
: &#039;&#039;Wealth of the Nations&#039;&#039; (money) is relatively easy to fulfill, but keep in mind in Round 5 it effectively nets only 12 points maximum (since 15 reals = 3 points in final scoring).&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
: &#039;&#039;Influence of the Guilds&#039;&#039; can yield 15 or 20 points in Rounds 3 and 5, the highest potential return on a single request. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
: &#039;&#039;Market Routes&#039;&#039; and &#039;&#039;Expeditions&#039;&#039; both score up to 18 points. Avoid having to fulfill them simultaneously in Round 3 or 5; the wood/money upkeep on 6 ships simultaneously in play is onerous.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
It is helpful to have complementary requests in hand: Market Routes + Wealth of the Nations (trade routes get you money); Influence of the Guilds + Urbanization (claiming Guild favours clears space for urbanization).&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== Endgame ==&lt;br /&gt;
Keep in mind that you need to marshal your resources carefully in endgame--hopefully by this point you have an engine for making money while also discarding pirates. Depending on your setup, you want a max of 3 or 6 pirates by the time you reach Fortaleza. Keep in mind that if you don&#039;t have enough wood and bread on hand at game-end, you will take a lot of last-minute pirates: a small shortfall in wood is not fatal (as you can pay for it), but a shortfall in bread cannot be made up, so make sure your position on the windmill + available bread is sufficient. (Also: start moving workers off the board to conserve bread in the last round: use Watch dice, or obtain a Watch majority and remove a worker for 4 PP).&lt;/div&gt;</summary>
		<author><name>Nandblock</name></author>
	</entry>
	<entry>
		<id>https://gl.doc.boardgamearena.com/index.php?title=Tips_madeira&amp;diff=2558</id>
		<title>Tips madeira</title>
		<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="https://gl.doc.boardgamearena.com/index.php?title=Tips_madeira&amp;diff=2558"/>
		<updated>2017-07-18T04:26:03Z</updated>

		<summary type="html">&lt;p&gt;Nandblock: /* Endgame */&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;hr /&gt;
&lt;div&gt;== Worker Placement ==&lt;br /&gt;
You need at least one worker in Regions 2 and 3 most of the time, as the building actions here are vital to winning; and in the forest. Whether you wish to keep one or more workers in Region 1 will depend in part on how heavily you plan to invest in colonists, since it has only one building to activate.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;Region 1:&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
:&#039;&#039;Alfândega (Customs)&#039;&#039;: By having colonists, you save yourself having to take harvest actions; in addition, it is a steady source of PP if you have ships in the colonies. This strategy works well with the Expeditions Crown Request.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;Region 2:&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
:&#039;&#039;Moinho (Mill)&#039;&#039;: A reliable end-of-round source of 5 bread, if you have 3 workers in this region.&lt;br /&gt;
:&#039;&#039;Capitania (Captaincy)&#039;&#039;: The main way to move workers into the city. If you have 3 workers in the region, you can earn an easy 15 points over 5 rounds.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;Region 3:&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
:&#039;&#039;Casa da Coroa (Guild Palace)&#039;&#039;: Important once you have accumulated guild favours.&lt;br /&gt;
:&#039;&#039;Fortaleza (Watch Tower)&#039;&#039;: The most powerful building on the board; it is a rare round that you will not want to place a guild die here. Placing one or two workers in the City Watch accomplishes 3 things simultaneously: discarding pirates, enabling you to use pirate die, and scoring 4 VPs if you have a majority in the Honor phase.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== Getting and Losing Pirates ==&lt;br /&gt;
There are two main approaches to pirates: (1) try to avoid having any by game-end (thus handing your opponent a large point penalty if they did not discard their own pirates); (2) try to score so much without paying building/maintenance costs that the 16-point penalty for having most pirates is of little concern. (Try to avoid the extra penalty for having more than 20 pirates, in any case.)&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
It is quite possible to discard all pirates by game-end. To play optimally, however, you will need to take pirates in opening rounds in order to conserve money, bread or wood, then discard them later. It is rarely possible to achieve much in the game while paying everything as you go.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The main way of discarding pirates is placing workers in the City Watch, via Fortaleza or other means (Scout, the 3rd passing favour, the King&#039;s favour). All these actions discard 3 pirates (or 6 if you activate Fortaleza&#039;s stronger ability). Therefore, as you approach the endgame, make sure you have an even multiple of 3 pirates. (Constable allows you to discard half your pirates; it is the only exception to the rule of 3. If you are going for a pirate-heavy strategy, grab this favour.)&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Putting a guild die on Fortaleza (if you have workers in Region 3) lets you skip paying for earlier building actions, then discard the resulting pirates at Fortaleza: an efficient way to conserve money if you don&#039;t need some earlier building actions.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== Picking Up Points Along the Way ==&lt;br /&gt;
It is important to pick up a few points every round, not just rounds 1/3/5. There are 3 buildings that give you points, one per region: 4 points for majority in the watch; 1 point per ship for sending a guy to the colonies; 1 or 3 points for the cities. Those points will stack up across 5 rounds, if you can consistently snag one or two of these per round. There are also a few guild favours that help, notably the Scout and Lady (plus passing areas II and III, plus some King&#039;s Favors).&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== Wood and Bread ==&lt;br /&gt;
Never start a round without bread, as you need it to modify dice. Take a few pirates if necessary to hang on to some bread.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Never discard wood in the first few rounds of the game when maintaining your ships: it is simply too precious to waste, as you need it for more ships and especially guild favors. Unlike bread, small quantities of wood may be purchased as long as you have access, so make sure you have enough reals on hand to make up the difference (or use the Windmill).&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== The Windmill ==&lt;br /&gt;
Do not neglect to use the Windmill to trade goods, gain bread, etc. Whenever you can, especially early in the game, move up the Windmill to conserve bread. (The Miller guild favour is especially useful for this.)&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== Passing ==&lt;br /&gt;
More actions is not necessarily better: try to pass early, once you&#039;ve completed all actions you absolutely must do. Unless you urgently need an action lower on the passing column, grab as high a spot as possible. Consider taking the 2 reals to guarantee first pick of dice, request, and guild to unflip.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== Crown Requests ==&lt;br /&gt;
When selecting crown requests, consider whether they work well together, what round you will fulfill them in, and what requests will be left unclaimed for future rounds. In general, avoid ending up with multiple copies of the same request in Round 5, as the 2nd copy will usually score little or nothing; the exception is Wealth of Nations if you&#039;re rolling in cash.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
: &#039;&#039;Urbanization&#039;&#039; (city workers) is the most useful request, in Round 1 especially, as you are guaranteed to score some points with no effort, and scoring 12 or 15 is relatively easy.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
: &#039;&#039;Wealth of the Nations&#039;&#039; (money) is relatively easy to fulfill, but keep in mind in Round 5 it effectively nets only 12 points maximum (since 15 reals = 3 points in final scoring).&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
: &#039;&#039;Influence of the Guilds&#039;&#039; can yield 15 or 20 points in Rounds 3 and 5, the highest potential return on a single request. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
: &#039;&#039;Market Routes&#039;&#039; and &#039;&#039;Expeditions&#039;&#039; both score up to 18 points. Avoid having to fulfill them simultaneously in Round 3 or 5; the wood/money upkeep on 6 ships simultaneously in play is onerous.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
It is helpful to have complementary requests in hand: Market Routes + Wealth of the Nations (trade routes get you money); Influence of the Guilds + Urbanization (claiming Guild favours clears space for urbanization).&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== Endgame ==&lt;br /&gt;
Keep in mind that you need to marshal your resources carefully in endgame--hopefully by this point you have an engine for making money while also discarding pirates. Depending on your setup, you want a max of 3 or 6 pirates by the time you reach Fortaleza. Keep in mind that if you don&#039;t have enough wood and bread on hand at game-end, you will take a lot of last-minute pirates: a small shortfall in wood is not fatal (as you can pay for it), but a shortfall in bread cannot be made up, so make sure your position on the windmill + available bread is sufficient. (Also: start moving workers off the board to conserve bread in the last round: use Watch dice, or obtain a Watch majority and remove a worker for 4 PP).&lt;/div&gt;</summary>
		<author><name>Nandblock</name></author>
	</entry>
	<entry>
		<id>https://gl.doc.boardgamearena.com/index.php?title=Tips_madeira&amp;diff=2557</id>
		<title>Tips madeira</title>
		<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="https://gl.doc.boardgamearena.com/index.php?title=Tips_madeira&amp;diff=2557"/>
		<updated>2017-07-18T04:25:48Z</updated>

		<summary type="html">&lt;p&gt;Nandblock: &lt;/p&gt;
&lt;hr /&gt;
&lt;div&gt;== Worker Placement ==&lt;br /&gt;
You need at least one worker in Regions 2 and 3 most of the time, as the building actions here are vital to winning; and in the forest. Whether you wish to keep one or more workers in Region 1 will depend in part on how heavily you plan to invest in colonists, since it has only one building to activate.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;Region 1:&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
:&#039;&#039;Alfândega (Customs)&#039;&#039;: By having colonists, you save yourself having to take harvest actions; in addition, it is a steady source of PP if you have ships in the colonies. This strategy works well with the Expeditions Crown Request.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;Region 2:&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
:&#039;&#039;Moinho (Mill)&#039;&#039;: A reliable end-of-round source of 5 bread, if you have 3 workers in this region.&lt;br /&gt;
:&#039;&#039;Capitania (Captaincy)&#039;&#039;: The main way to move workers into the city. If you have 3 workers in the region, you can earn an easy 15 points over 5 rounds.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;Region 3:&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
:&#039;&#039;Casa da Coroa (Guild Palace)&#039;&#039;: Important once you have accumulated guild favours.&lt;br /&gt;
:&#039;&#039;Fortaleza (Watch Tower)&#039;&#039;: The most powerful building on the board; it is a rare round that you will not want to place a guild die here. Placing one or two workers in the City Watch accomplishes 3 things simultaneously: discarding pirates, enabling you to use pirate die, and scoring 4 VPs if you have a majority in the Honor phase.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== Getting and Losing Pirates ==&lt;br /&gt;
There are two main approaches to pirates: (1) try to avoid having any by game-end (thus handing your opponent a large point penalty if they did not discard their own pirates); (2) try to score so much without paying building/maintenance costs that the 16-point penalty for having most pirates is of little concern. (Try to avoid the extra penalty for having more than 20 pirates, in any case.)&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
It is quite possible to discard all pirates by game-end. To play optimally, however, you will need to take pirates in opening rounds in order to conserve money, bread or wood, then discard them later. It is rarely possible to achieve much in the game while paying everything as you go.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The main way of discarding pirates is placing workers in the City Watch, via Fortaleza or other means (Scout, the 3rd passing favour, the King&#039;s favour). All these actions discard 3 pirates (or 6 if you activate Fortaleza&#039;s stronger ability). Therefore, as you approach the endgame, make sure you have an even multiple of 3 pirates. (Constable allows you to discard half your pirates; it is the only exception to the rule of 3. If you are going for a pirate-heavy strategy, grab this favour.)&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Putting a guild die on Fortaleza (if you have workers in Region 3) lets you skip paying for earlier building actions, then discard the resulting pirates at Fortaleza: an efficient way to conserve money if you don&#039;t need some earlier building actions.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== Picking Up Points Along the Way ==&lt;br /&gt;
It is important to pick up a few points every round, not just rounds 1/3/5. There are 3 buildings that give you points, one per region: 4 points for majority in the watch; 1 point per ship for sending a guy to the colonies; 1 or 3 points for the cities. Those points will stack up across 5 rounds, if you can consistently snag one or two of these per round. There are also a few guild favours that help, notably the Scout and Lady (plus passing areas II and III, plus some King&#039;s Favors).&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== Wood and Bread ==&lt;br /&gt;
Never start a round without bread, as you need it to modify dice. Take a few pirates if necessary to hang on to some bread.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Never discard wood in the first few rounds of the game when maintaining your ships: it is simply too precious to waste, as you need it for more ships and especially guild favors. Unlike bread, small quantities of wood may be purchased as long as you have access, so make sure you have enough reals on hand to make up the difference (or use the Windmill).&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== The Windmill ==&lt;br /&gt;
Do not neglect to use the Windmill to trade goods, gain bread, etc. Whenever you can, especially early in the game, move up the Windmill to conserve bread. (The Miller guild favour is especially useful for this.)&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== Passing ==&lt;br /&gt;
More actions is not necessarily better: try to pass early, once you&#039;ve completed all actions you absolutely must do. Unless you urgently need an action lower on the passing column, grab as high a spot as possible. Consider taking the 2 reals to guarantee first pick of dice, request, and guild to unflip.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== Crown Requests ==&lt;br /&gt;
When selecting crown requests, consider whether they work well together, what round you will fulfill them in, and what requests will be left unclaimed for future rounds. In general, avoid ending up with multiple copies of the same request in Round 5, as the 2nd copy will usually score little or nothing; the exception is Wealth of Nations if you&#039;re rolling in cash.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
: &#039;&#039;Urbanization&#039;&#039; (city workers) is the most useful request, in Round 1 especially, as you are guaranteed to score some points with no effort, and scoring 12 or 15 is relatively easy.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
: &#039;&#039;Wealth of the Nations&#039;&#039; (money) is relatively easy to fulfill, but keep in mind in Round 5 it effectively nets only 12 points maximum (since 15 reals = 3 points in final scoring).&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
: &#039;&#039;Influence of the Guilds&#039;&#039; can yield 15 or 20 points in Rounds 3 and 5, the highest potential return on a single request. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
: &#039;&#039;Market Routes&#039;&#039; and &#039;&#039;Expeditions&#039;&#039; both score up to 18 points. Avoid having to fulfill them simultaneously in Round 3 or 5; the wood/money upkeep on 6 ships simultaneously in play is onerous.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
It is helpful to have complementary requests in hand: Market Routes + Wealth of the Nations (trade routes get you money); Influence of the Guilds + Urbanization (claiming Guild favours clears space for urbanization).&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== Endgame ==&lt;br /&gt;
Keep in mind that you need to marshal your resources carefully in endgame--hopefully by this point you have an engine for making money while also discarding pirates. Depending on your setup, you want a max of 3 or 6 pirates by the time you reach Fortaleza. Keep in mind that if you don&#039;t have enough wood and bread on hand at game-end, you will take a lot of last-minute pirates: a small shortfall in wood is not fatal (as you can pay for it), but a shortfall in bread cannot be made up, so make sure your position on the windmill + available bread is sufficient. (Also: start moving workers off the board to conserve bread in the last round: use Watch dice, or obtain a Watch majority and remove a worker to 4 PP).&lt;/div&gt;</summary>
		<author><name>Nandblock</name></author>
	</entry>
	<entry>
		<id>https://gl.doc.boardgamearena.com/index.php?title=Tips_tashkalar&amp;diff=2528</id>
		<title>Tips tashkalar</title>
		<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="https://gl.doc.boardgamearena.com/index.php?title=Tips_tashkalar&amp;diff=2528"/>
		<updated>2017-07-04T23:24:39Z</updated>

		<summary type="html">&lt;p&gt;Nandblock: /* Cards */&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;hr /&gt;
&lt;div&gt;== High Form Strategy ==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;1) Board Management&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;Keep your piece-count down.&#039;&#039; If a piece of your own is not helping your position and you have a chance to destroy it, do so rather than destroying an enemy piece--this puts you rather than them closer to a flare. If you&#039;re ahead in the game and your piece count is high, consider discarding cards or summoning a being on top of your own piece (oversummoning) to avoid placing another piece on the board.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;Keep your pieces together.&#039;&#039; If your position is dispersed, those pieces will add to your piece-count, making it impossible to get a life-saving flare while being useless for summoning or claiming tasks.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;Place pieces on or around coloured squares by preference.&#039;&#039; Even if there&#039;s no coloured summoning/conquest task on the board, one will eventually pop up. (Caveat: do not casually leave pieces on red squares if you are playing against Highland and they haven&#039;t yet played Blood Shaman.)&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;Do not let your opponent set up camp far away from you.&#039;&#039; Make sure you are always able to destroy a piece or two of theirs.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;2) Hand Management&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;Play or discard cards rather than letting them go stale.&#039;&#039; Don&#039;t grow too attached to a card unless you&#039;re absolutely sure you need to use it soon to accomplish a task. If it&#039;s not helping you, get rid of it by summoning it, even if you can&#039;t trigger its effects, or discarding it. The smaller your deck, the more precise your endgame play will be, as you will know with certainty what you will draw; and if you cannot score 9 points, you want to be the person who triggers the endgame by running out of cards. -- By discarding you can also get rid of a flare that is hard to trigger, or Legends that are not useful. It also improves the precision of your endgame if you use the opportunity to place one or two cards on the bottom of your deck.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;Anticipate key cards in your deck.&#039;&#039; Don&#039;t just set up existing patterns in your hand (though do that too!); if you know a useful card is in your deck, try to keep a few pieces on the board that will help you achieve that pattern. It might be the next card you draw. (E.g. if you have the Highland deck, try to maintain a few pieces at the corners of a green square in anticipation of Ritual Master, or a bow-shape for Warlord / Eagle Lord.) When you&#039;re just starting out, it is impossible to remember all the cards, but be aware of the most powerful and disruptive ones: Hypnotist and Bomb (North/South Empire); Everfrost Sentinel; Blood Shaman and Ritual Master (Highland); Forest Ancient (Sylvan); and Leviathan and Time Elemental (Legends).&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;Track the cards.&#039;&#039; If you are playing a turn-based game, use the Notes feature of BGA to keep track of both your cards and your opponent&#039;s.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;Learn the decks and Legendary Beings.&#039;&#039; To reiterate: as a beginner, &#039;&#039;do not worry about memorizing every single card!&#039;&#039; But eventually you will need to be able to recognize patterns that your opponent is trying to form, and know what&#039;s coming up in your own deck that might be useful.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;3) Flares&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;Be wary of flares.&#039;&#039; A typical beginner&#039;s mistake is to assume that accumulating more pieces than your opponent, and destroying many of your opponent&#039;s pieces, is a good idea. But &#039;&#039;&#039;this approach will usually lose the game,&#039;&#039;&#039; because it gives an opponent the opportunity to flare every turn. Extra actions are extremely valuable in Tash-Kalar--often they are the deciding factor in claiming a task or totally reshaping the board--so don&#039;t let your opponent get flares easily. If you are ahead in piece-count, try to stay ahead by a maximum of 2 heroic pieces and 3 pieces in total--this guarantees that only one flare (the 2/5 one) is playable. If you must exceed that limit, avoid triggering top and bottom flares at once. (The upper number on flares ranges from 2 to 5; the lower number from 4 to 6.) None of the bottom-4 flares are big game-changing ones; but several top-3 flares are powerful, so if you&#039;re going to risk triggering one, go ahead 2/4 rather than 3/3 by preference.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;Play your flare!&#039;&#039; If you can play it, the vast majority of the time you should. This is true even if it does nothing helpful--in that case, play it simply to discard it and get a more useful one in return.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;4) Tasks&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;Prioritize 1- and 2-point tasks, not 3-pointers and Legends.&#039;&#039; In particular, Side Chain and Corner Chain are very difficult to achieve without an exorbitant cost. Legends are good but since the 1 point they give is no better than an easily achievable 1-point task, and can be taken away from you, they should not be a major priority unless they help accomplish a task. You need to claim very easy tasks before your opponent does, as they stack up quickly--in particular, never leave End of Legends, Heroic Destruction or Rainbow Domination unclaimed for long, as they are the easiest 2-point tasks to claim.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;5) Opening Moves&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
In general (though this advice is dependent on your initial draw and the first tasks available), place your first pieces near the centre but somewhat off-centre, and in the vicinity of coloured squares. This maximizes control of the board, positional flexibility, and ability to engage in direct conflict or move away from it. If your hand is full of 2- and 3-piece patterns, being right next to your opponent&#039;s pieces is good, as you will be able to destroy their pieces easily. If it&#039;s full of 4- and 5-piece patterns, keep more distance at first.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;6) Patience&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Tash-Kalar games tend to have a dramatic mid-game &amp;quot;bounce&amp;quot;: it is very hard to hang on to an early lead, because the player in the lead will have typically grabbed all the tasks they can easily grab, used their best cards, and be on the verge of giving up flares. If you are behind, even by a substantial number of points, do not give in easily, especially since you will have a more precise sense of what&#039;s in your deck and your opponent&#039;s and can plan accordingly. If you are ahead, be wary: start reducing your piece-count, and if you have a strong lead, summon (or discard) Beings as much as possible to hasten the endgame.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== Cards ==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Here is a full list of all cards in Tash-Kalar&#039;s BGA implementation (numbers denote the pieces in the pattern):&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;IMPERIAL&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
* 2: Messenger, Swordmaster, Bomb&lt;br /&gt;
* 3: Chronicler, Herald, High Priestess, Summoner, Cannon, Assassin&lt;br /&gt;
* 4: Gryphon Rider, Knight, Master of Intrigue, Cavalry Captain, Infantry Captain, Champion, Time Mage, Gun Tower, Hypnotist&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;SYLVAN&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
* 2: Sapling, Kiskin Farseeders, Forest Wardens&lt;br /&gt;
* 3: Naiad, Charging Buck, Kiskin Spirit, Dryad, Forest Mystic, Sylvan Princess, Woodland Druid&lt;br /&gt;
* 4: Unicorn, Kiskin Boughrunner, Kiskin Leafsplitter, Centaur Spearman, Forest Ancient, Centaur Chieftain, Sylvan Queen, Tree Shepherd&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;HIGHLAND&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
* 2: Ritual Keeper, Wild Eagle, Clan Axeman&lt;br /&gt;
* 3: Dire Wolf, Clan Healer, Clan Guardian, Ritual Master, Hungry Bear&lt;br /&gt;
* 4: Wolf Rider, Mountain Troll, Hill Giant, Eagle Lord, War Summoner, War Drummer, Legend Slayer, Blood Shaman, Werewolf&lt;br /&gt;
* 5: Warlord&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;EVERFROST&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
* 2: Snow Fox, Crystal Mirror, Crystal Grower&lt;br /&gt;
* 3: Ice Princess, Royal Reindeer, Frostweave Illusionist, Frostweave Summoner, Frost Imp, Frozen Chest&lt;br /&gt;
* 4: Winter Whisperer, Glacier Giant, Ice Queen, Ice Wyvern, Everfrost Sentinel, Deathbringer, War Sled, Polar Bear, Snow Monster&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;LEGENDS&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
* Time Elemental, Earth Elemental, Fire Elemental, Storm Elemental, Leviathan, Hell Bull, Angel of Death, Two-Headed Dragon, Fire Dragon, Titan, Bone Catapult&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;FLARES&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Symbols:&lt;br /&gt;
* m = standard move; x = combat move&lt;br /&gt;
* ^ = standard leap; x^ = combat leap &lt;br /&gt;
* + = upgrade; A = gain action&lt;br /&gt;
* no sign = place&lt;br /&gt;
* H = heroic; C = common; P = any non-legendary piece&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Cards:&lt;br /&gt;
* 2 / 5 : ^C / A&lt;br /&gt;
* 3 / 4 : C / xP or mPP&lt;br /&gt;
* 3 / 5 : mCCC / A&lt;br /&gt;
* 3 / 6 : mC or +C / CC&lt;br /&gt;
* 3 / 6 : C / H&lt;br /&gt;
* 4 / 4 : C / C&lt;br /&gt;
* 4 / 4 : C or +C / x^C&lt;br /&gt;
* 4 / 6 : C / +C and A &lt;br /&gt;
* 4 / 5 : A / C&lt;br /&gt;
* 4 / 5 : C / C or convert enemy C&lt;br /&gt;
* 5 / 4 : H / mC xC&lt;br /&gt;
* 5 / 5 : CC / C&lt;/div&gt;</summary>
		<author><name>Nandblock</name></author>
	</entry>
	<entry>
		<id>https://gl.doc.boardgamearena.com/index.php?title=Tips_madeira&amp;diff=2526</id>
		<title>Tips madeira</title>
		<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="https://gl.doc.boardgamearena.com/index.php?title=Tips_madeira&amp;diff=2526"/>
		<updated>2017-07-03T23:16:13Z</updated>

		<summary type="html">&lt;p&gt;Nandblock: /* Crown Requests */&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;hr /&gt;
&lt;div&gt;== Worker Placement ==&lt;br /&gt;
You need at least one worker in Regions 2 and 3 most of the time, as the building actions here are vital to winning; and in the forest. Whether you wish to keep one or more workers in Region 1 will depend in part on how heavily you plan to invest in colonists, since it has only one building to activate.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;Region 1:&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
:&#039;&#039;Alfândega (Customs)&#039;&#039;: By having colonists, you save yourself having to take harvest actions; in addition, it is a steady source of PP if you have ships in the colonies. This strategy works well with the Expeditions Crown Request.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;Region 2:&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
:&#039;&#039;Moinho (Mill)&#039;&#039;: A reliable end-of-round source of 5 bread, if you have 3 workers in this region.&lt;br /&gt;
:&#039;&#039;Capitania (Captaincy)&#039;&#039;: The main way to move workers into the city. If you have 3 workers in the region, you can earn an easy 15 points over 5 rounds.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;Region 3:&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
:&#039;&#039;Casa da Coroa (Guild Palace)&#039;&#039;: Important once you have accumulated guild favours.&lt;br /&gt;
:&#039;&#039;Fortaleza (Watch Tower)&#039;&#039;: The most powerful building on the board; it is a rare round that you will not want to place a guild die here. Placing one or two workers in the City Watch accomplishes 3 things simultaneously: discarding pirates, enabling you to use pirate die, and scoring 4 VPs if you have a majority in the Honor phase.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== Getting and Losing Pirates ==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
There are two main approaches to pirates: (1) try to avoid having any by game-end (thus handing your opponent a large point penalty if they did not discard their own pirates); (2) try to score so much without paying building/maintenance costs that the 16-point penalty for having most pirates is of little concern. (Try to avoid the extra penalty for having more than 20 pirates, in any case.)&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
It is quite possible to discard all pirates by game-end. To play optimally, however, you will need to take pirates in opening rounds in order to conserve money, bread or wood, then discard them later. It is rarely possible to achieve much in the game while paying everything as you go.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The main way of discarding pirates is placing workers in the City Watch, via Fortaleza or other means (Scout, the 3rd passing favour, the King&#039;s favour). All these actions discard 3 pirates (or 6 if you activate Fortaleza&#039;s stronger ability). Therefore, as you approach the endgame, make sure you have an even multiple of 3 pirates. (Constable allows you to discard half your pirates; it is the only exception to the rule of 3. If you are going for a pirate-heavy strategy, grab this favour.)&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Putting a guild die on Fortaleza (if you have workers in Region 3) lets you skip paying for earlier building actions, then discard the resulting pirates at Fortaleza: an efficient way to conserve money if you don&#039;t need some earlier building actions.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== Bread ==&lt;br /&gt;
Never start a round without bread, as you need it to modify dice. Take a few pirates if necessary to hang on to some bread.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== The Windmill ==&lt;br /&gt;
Do not neglect to use the Windmill to trade goods, gain bread, etc. Whenever you can, especially early in the game, move up the Windmill to conserve bread. (The Miller guild favour is especially useful for this.)&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== Passing ==&lt;br /&gt;
More actions is not necessarily better: try to pass early, once you&#039;ve completed all actions you absolutely must do. Unless you urgently need an action lower on the passing column, grab as high a spot as possible. Consider taking the 2 reals to guarantee first pick of dice, request, and guild to unflip.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== Crown Requests ==&lt;br /&gt;
When selecting crown requests, consider whether they work well together, what round you will fulfill them in, and what requests will be left unclaimed for future rounds. In general, avoid ending up with multiple copies of the same request in Round 5, as the 2nd copy will usually score little or nothing; the exception is Wealth of Nations if you&#039;re rolling in cash.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
: &#039;&#039;Urbanization&#039;&#039; (city workers) is the most useful request, in Round 1 especially, as you are guaranteed to score some points with no effort, and scoring 12 or 15 is relatively easy.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
: &#039;&#039;Wealth of the Nations&#039;&#039; (money) is relatively easy to fulfill, but keep in mind in Round 5 it effectively nets only 12 points maximum (since 15 reals = 3 points in final scoring).&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
: &#039;&#039;Influence of the Guilds&#039;&#039; can yield 15 or 20 points in Rounds 3 and 5, the highest potential return on a single request. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
: &#039;&#039;Market Routes&#039;&#039; and &#039;&#039;Expeditions&#039;&#039; both score up to 18 points. Avoid having to fulfill them simultaneously in Round 3 or 5; the wood/money upkeep on 6 ships simultaneously in play is onerous.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
It is helpful to have complementary requests in hand: Market Routes + Wealth of the Nations (trade routes get you money); Influence of the Guilds + Urbanization (claiming Guild favours clears space for urbanization).&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== Endgame ==&lt;br /&gt;
Keep in mind that you need to marshal your resources carefully in endgame--hopefully by this point you have an engine for making money while also discarding pirates. Depending on your setup, you want a max of 3 or 6 pirates by the time you reach Fortaleza. Keep in mind that if you don&#039;t have enough wood and bread on hand at game-end, you will take a lot of last-minute pirates: a small shortfall in wood is not fatal (as you can pay for it), but a shortfall in bread cannot be made up, so make sure your position on the windmill + available bread is sufficient. (Also: start moving workers off the board to conserve bread in the last round: use Watch dice, or obtain a Watch majority and remove a worker to 4 PP).&lt;/div&gt;</summary>
		<author><name>Nandblock</name></author>
	</entry>
	<entry>
		<id>https://gl.doc.boardgamearena.com/index.php?title=Tips_tashkalar&amp;diff=2523</id>
		<title>Tips tashkalar</title>
		<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="https://gl.doc.boardgamearena.com/index.php?title=Tips_tashkalar&amp;diff=2523"/>
		<updated>2017-07-03T03:26:42Z</updated>

		<summary type="html">&lt;p&gt;Nandblock: /* High Form Strategy */&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;hr /&gt;
&lt;div&gt;== High Form Strategy ==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;1) Board Management&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;Keep your piece-count down.&#039;&#039; If a piece of your own is not helping your position and you have a chance to destroy it, do so rather than destroying an enemy piece--this puts you rather than them closer to a flare. If you&#039;re ahead in the game and your piece count is high, consider discarding cards or summoning a being on top of your own piece (oversummoning) to avoid placing another piece on the board.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;Keep your pieces together.&#039;&#039; If your position is dispersed, those pieces will add to your piece-count, making it impossible to get a life-saving flare while being useless for summoning or claiming tasks.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;Place pieces on or around coloured squares by preference.&#039;&#039; Even if there&#039;s no coloured summoning/conquest task on the board, one will eventually pop up. (Caveat: do not casually leave pieces on red squares if you are playing against Highland and they haven&#039;t yet played Blood Shaman.)&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;Do not let your opponent set up camp far away from you.&#039;&#039; Make sure you are always able to destroy a piece or two of theirs.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;2) Hand Management&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;Play or discard cards rather than letting them go stale.&#039;&#039; Don&#039;t grow too attached to a card unless you&#039;re absolutely sure you need to use it soon to accomplish a task. If it&#039;s not helping you, get rid of it by summoning it, even if you can&#039;t trigger its effects, or discarding it. The smaller your deck, the more precise your endgame play will be, as you will know with certainty what you will draw; and if you cannot score 9 points, you want to be the person who triggers the endgame by running out of cards. -- By discarding you can also get rid of a flare that is hard to trigger, or Legends that are not useful. It also improves the precision of your endgame if you use the opportunity to place one or two cards on the bottom of your deck.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;Anticipate key cards in your deck.&#039;&#039; Don&#039;t just set up existing patterns in your hand (though do that too!); if you know a useful card is in your deck, try to keep a few pieces on the board that will help you achieve that pattern. It might be the next card you draw. (E.g. if you have the Highland deck, try to maintain a few pieces at the corners of a green square in anticipation of Ritual Master, or a bow-shape for Warlord / Eagle Lord.) When you&#039;re just starting out, it is impossible to remember all the cards, but be aware of the most powerful and disruptive ones: Hypnotist and Bomb (North/South Empire); Everfrost Sentinel; Blood Shaman and Ritual Master (Highland); Forest Ancient (Sylvan); and Leviathan and Time Elemental (Legends).&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;Track the cards.&#039;&#039; If you are playing a turn-based game, use the Notes feature of BGA to keep track of both your cards and your opponent&#039;s.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;Learn the decks and Legendary Beings.&#039;&#039; To reiterate: as a beginner, &#039;&#039;do not worry about memorizing every single card!&#039;&#039; But eventually you will need to be able to recognize patterns that your opponent is trying to form, and know what&#039;s coming up in your own deck that might be useful.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;3) Flares&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;Be wary of flares.&#039;&#039; A typical beginner&#039;s mistake is to assume that accumulating more pieces than your opponent, and destroying many of your opponent&#039;s pieces, is a good idea. But &#039;&#039;&#039;this approach will usually lose the game,&#039;&#039;&#039; because it gives an opponent the opportunity to flare every turn. Extra actions are extremely valuable in Tash-Kalar--often they are the deciding factor in claiming a task or totally reshaping the board--so don&#039;t let your opponent get flares easily. If you are ahead in piece-count, try to stay ahead by a maximum of 2 heroic pieces and 3 pieces in total--this guarantees that only one flare (the 2/5 one) is playable. If you must exceed that limit, avoid triggering top and bottom flares at once. (The upper number on flares ranges from 2 to 5; the lower number from 4 to 6.) None of the bottom-4 flares are big game-changing ones; but several top-3 flares are powerful, so if you&#039;re going to risk triggering one, go ahead 2/4 rather than 3/3 by preference.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;Play your flare!&#039;&#039; If you can play it, the vast majority of the time you should. This is true even if it does nothing helpful--in that case, play it simply to discard it and get a more useful one in return.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;4) Tasks&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;Prioritize 1- and 2-point tasks, not 3-pointers and Legends.&#039;&#039; In particular, Side Chain and Corner Chain are very difficult to achieve without an exorbitant cost. Legends are good but since the 1 point they give is no better than an easily achievable 1-point task, and can be taken away from you, they should not be a major priority unless they help accomplish a task. You need to claim very easy tasks before your opponent does, as they stack up quickly--in particular, never leave End of Legends, Heroic Destruction or Rainbow Domination unclaimed for long, as they are the easiest 2-point tasks to claim.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;5) Opening Moves&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
In general (though this advice is dependent on your initial draw and the first tasks available), place your first pieces near the centre but somewhat off-centre, and in the vicinity of coloured squares. This maximizes control of the board, positional flexibility, and ability to engage in direct conflict or move away from it. If your hand is full of 2- and 3-piece patterns, being right next to your opponent&#039;s pieces is good, as you will be able to destroy their pieces easily. If it&#039;s full of 4- and 5-piece patterns, keep more distance at first.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;6) Patience&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Tash-Kalar games tend to have a dramatic mid-game &amp;quot;bounce&amp;quot;: it is very hard to hang on to an early lead, because the player in the lead will have typically grabbed all the tasks they can easily grab, used their best cards, and be on the verge of giving up flares. If you are behind, even by a substantial number of points, do not give in easily, especially since you will have a more precise sense of what&#039;s in your deck and your opponent&#039;s and can plan accordingly. If you are ahead, be wary: start reducing your piece-count, and if you have a strong lead, summon (or discard) Beings as much as possible to hasten the endgame.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== Cards ==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Here is a full list of all cards in Tash-Kalar&#039;s BGA implementation (numbers denote the pieces in the pattern):&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;IMPERIAL&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
* 2: Messenger, Swordmaster, Bomb&lt;br /&gt;
* 3: Chronicler, Herald, High Priestess, Summoner, Cannon, Assassin&lt;br /&gt;
* 4: Gryphon Rider, Knight, Master of Intrigue, Cavalry Captain, Infantry Captain, Champion, Time Mage, Gun Tower, Hypnotist&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;SYLVAN&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
* 2: Sapling, Kiskin Farseeders, Forest Wardens&lt;br /&gt;
* 3: Naiad, Charging Buck, Kiskin Spirit, Dryad, Forest Mystic, Sylvan Princess, Woodland Druid&lt;br /&gt;
* 4: Unicorn, Kiskin Boughrunner, Kiskin Leafsplitter, Centaur Spearman, Forest Ancient, Centaur Chieftain, Sylvan Queen, Tree Shepherd&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;HIGHLAND&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
* 2: Ritual Keeper, Wild Eagle, Clan Axeman&lt;br /&gt;
* 3: Dire Wolf, Clan Healer, Clan Guardian, Ritual Master, Hungry Bear&lt;br /&gt;
* 4: Wolf Rider, Mountain Troll, Hill Giant, Eagle Lord, War Summoner, War Drummer, Legend Slayer, Blood Shaman, Werewolf&lt;br /&gt;
* 5: Warlord&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;EVERFROST&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
* 2: Snow Fox, Crystal Mirror, Crystal Grower&lt;br /&gt;
* 3: Ice Princess, Royal Reindeer, Frostweave Illusionist, Frostweave Summoner, Frost Imp, Frozen Chest&lt;br /&gt;
* 4: Winter Whisperer, Glacier Giant, Ice Queen, Ice Wyvern, Everfrost Sentinel, Deathbringer, War Sled, Polar Bear, Snow Monster&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;LEGENDS&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
* Time Elemental, Earth Elemental, Fire Elemental, Storm Elemental, Leviathan, Hell Bull, Angel of Death, Two-Headed Dragon, Fire Dragon, Titan, Bone Catapult&lt;/div&gt;</summary>
		<author><name>Nandblock</name></author>
	</entry>
	<entry>
		<id>https://gl.doc.boardgamearena.com/index.php?title=Tips_tashkalar&amp;diff=2520</id>
		<title>Tips tashkalar</title>
		<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="https://gl.doc.boardgamearena.com/index.php?title=Tips_tashkalar&amp;diff=2520"/>
		<updated>2017-06-27T03:47:19Z</updated>

		<summary type="html">&lt;p&gt;Nandblock: /* High Form Strategy */&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;hr /&gt;
&lt;div&gt;== High Form Strategy ==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;1) Board Management&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;Keep your piece-count down.&#039;&#039; If a piece of your own is not helping your position and you have a chance to destroy it, do so rather than destroying an enemy piece--this puts you rather than them closer to a flare. If you&#039;re ahead in the game and your piece count is high, consider discarding cards or summoning a being on top of your own piece (oversummoning) to avoid placing another piece on the board.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;Keep your pieces together.&#039;&#039; If your position is dispersed, those pieces will add to your piece-count, making it impossible to get a life-saving flare while being useless for summoning or claiming tasks.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;Place pieces on or around coloured squares by preference.&#039;&#039; Even if there&#039;s no coloured summoning/conquest task on the board, one will eventually pop up. (Caveat: do not casually leave pieces on red squares if you are playing against Highland and they haven&#039;t yet played Blood Shaman.)&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;Do not let your opponent set up camp far away from you.&#039;&#039; Make sure you are always able to destroy a piece or two of theirs.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;2) Hand Management&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;Play or discard cards rather than letting them go stale.&#039;&#039; Don&#039;t grow too attached to a card unless you&#039;re absolutely sure you need to use it soon to accomplish a task. If it&#039;s not helping you, get rid of it by summoning it, even if you can&#039;t trigger its effects, or discarding it. The smaller your deck, the more precise your endgame play will be, as you will know with certainty what you will draw; and if you cannot score 9 points, you want to be the person who triggers the endgame by running out of cards. -- By discarding you can also get rid of a flare that is hard to trigger, or Legends that are not useful.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;Anticipate key cards in your deck.&#039;&#039; Don&#039;t just set up existing patterns in your hand (though do that too!); if you know a useful card is in your deck, try to keep a few pieces on the board that will help you achieve that pattern. It might be the next card you draw. (E.g. if you have the Highland deck, try to maintain a few pieces at the corners of a green square in anticipation of Ritual Master, or a bow-shape for Warlord / Eagle Lord.) When you&#039;re just starting out, it is impossible to remember all the cards, but be aware of the most powerful and disruptive ones: Hypnotist and Bomb (North/South Empire); Everfrost Sentinel; Blood Shaman and Ritual Master (Highland); Forest Ancient (Sylvan); and Leviathan and Time Elemental (Legends).&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;Track the cards.&#039;&#039; If you are playing a turn-based game, use the Notes feature of BGA to keep track of both your cards and your opponent&#039;s.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;Learn the decks and Legendary Beings.&#039;&#039; To reiterate: as a beginner, &#039;&#039;do not worry about memorizing every single card!&#039;&#039; But eventually you will need to be able to recognize patterns that your opponent is trying to form, and know what&#039;s coming up in your own deck that might be useful.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;3) Flares&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;Be wary of flares.&#039;&#039; A typical beginner&#039;s mistake is to assume that accumulating more pieces than your opponent, and destroying many of your opponent&#039;s pieces, is a good idea. But &#039;&#039;&#039;this approach will usually lose the game,&#039;&#039;&#039; because it gives an opponent the opportunity to flare every turn. Extra actions are extremely valuable in Tash-Kalar--often they are the deciding factor in claiming a task or totally reshaping the board--so don&#039;t let your opponent get flares easily. If you are ahead in piece-count, try to stay ahead by a maximum of 2 heroic pieces and 3 pieces in total--this guarantees that only one flare (the 2/5 one) is playable. If you must exceed that limit, avoid triggering top and bottom flares at once. (The upper number on flares ranges from 2 to 5; the lower number from 4 to 6.) None of the bottom-4 flares are big game-changing ones; but several top-3 flares are powerful, so if you&#039;re going to risk triggering one, go ahead 2/4 rather than 3/3 by preference.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;Play your flare!&#039;&#039; If you can play it, the vast majority of the time you should. This is true even if it does nothing helpful--in that case, play it simply to discard it and get a more useful one in return.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;4) Tasks&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;Prioritize 1- and 2-point tasks, not 3-pointers and Legends.&#039;&#039; In particular, Side Chain and Corner Chain are very difficult to achieve without an exorbitant cost. Legends are good but since the 1 point they give is no better than an easily achievable 1-point task, and can be taken away from you, they should not be a major priority unless they help accomplish a task. You need to claim very easy tasks before your opponent does, as they stack up quickly--in particular, never leave End of Legends, Heroic Destruction or Rainbow Domination unclaimed for long, as they are the easiest 2-point tasks to claim.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;5) Opening Moves&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
In general (though this advice is dependent on your initial draw and the first tasks available), place your first pieces near the centre but somewhat off-centre, and in the vicinity of coloured squares. This maximizes control of the board, positional flexibility, and ability to engage in direct conflict or move away from it. If your hand is full of 2- and 3-piece patterns, being right next to your opponent&#039;s pieces is good, as you will be able to destroy their pieces easily. If it&#039;s full of 4- and 5-piece patterns, keep more distance at first.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;6) Patience&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Tash-Kalar games tend to have a dramatic mid-game &amp;quot;bounce&amp;quot;: it is very hard to hang on to an early lead, because the player in the lead will have typically grabbed all the tasks they can easily grab, used their best cards, and be on the verge of giving up flares. If you are behind, even by a substantial number of points, do not give in easily, especially since you will have a more precise sense of what&#039;s in your deck and your opponent&#039;s and can plan accordingly. If you are ahead, be wary: start reducing your piece-count, and if you have a strong lead, summon (or discard) Beings as much as possible to hasten the endgame.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== Cards ==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Here is a full list of all cards in Tash-Kalar&#039;s BGA implementation (numbers denote the pieces in the pattern):&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;IMPERIAL&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
* 2: Messenger, Swordmaster, Bomb&lt;br /&gt;
* 3: Chronicler, Herald, High Priestess, Summoner, Cannon, Assassin&lt;br /&gt;
* 4: Gryphon Rider, Knight, Master of Intrigue, Cavalry Captain, Infantry Captain, Champion, Time Mage, Gun Tower, Hypnotist&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;SYLVAN&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
* 2: Sapling, Kiskin Farseeders, Forest Wardens&lt;br /&gt;
* 3: Naiad, Charging Buck, Kiskin Spirit, Dryad, Forest Mystic, Sylvan Princess, Woodland Druid&lt;br /&gt;
* 4: Unicorn, Kiskin Boughrunner, Kiskin Leafsplitter, Centaur Spearman, Forest Ancient, Centaur Chieftain, Sylvan Queen, Tree Shepherd&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;HIGHLAND&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
* 2: Ritual Keeper, Wild Eagle, Clan Axeman&lt;br /&gt;
* 3: Dire Wolf, Clan Healer, Clan Guardian, Ritual Master, Hungry Bear&lt;br /&gt;
* 4: Wolf Rider, Mountain Troll, Hill Giant, Eagle Lord, War Summoner, War Drummer, Legend Slayer, Blood Shaman, Werewolf&lt;br /&gt;
* 5: Warlord&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;EVERFROST&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
* 2: Snow Fox, Crystal Mirror, Crystal Grower&lt;br /&gt;
* 3: Ice Princess, Royal Reindeer, Frostweave Illusionist, Frostweave Summoner, Frost Imp, Frozen Chest&lt;br /&gt;
* 4: Winter Whisperer, Glacier Giant, Ice Queen, Ice Wyvern, Everfrost Sentinel, Deathbringer, War Sled, Polar Bear, Snow Monster&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;LEGENDS&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
* Time Elemental, Earth Elemental, Fire Elemental, Storm Elemental, Leviathan, Hell Bull, Angel of Death, Two-Headed Dragon, Fire Dragon, Titan, Bone Catapult&lt;/div&gt;</summary>
		<author><name>Nandblock</name></author>
	</entry>
	<entry>
		<id>https://gl.doc.boardgamearena.com/index.php?title=Tips_tashkalar&amp;diff=2519</id>
		<title>Tips tashkalar</title>
		<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="https://gl.doc.boardgamearena.com/index.php?title=Tips_tashkalar&amp;diff=2519"/>
		<updated>2017-06-24T07:46:39Z</updated>

		<summary type="html">&lt;p&gt;Nandblock: /* High Form Strategy */&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;hr /&gt;
&lt;div&gt;== High Form Strategy ==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;1) Board Management&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;Keep your piece-count down.&#039;&#039; If a piece of your own is not helping your position and you have a chance to destroy it, do so rather than destroying an enemy piece--this puts you rather than them closer to a flare. If you&#039;re ahead in the game and your piece count is high, consider discarding cards or summoning a being on top of your own piece (oversummoning) to avoid placing another piece on the board.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;Keep your pieces together.&#039;&#039; If your position is dispersed, those pieces will add to your piece-count, making it impossible to get a life-saving flare while being useless for summoning or claiming tasks.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;Place pieces on or around coloured squares by preference.&#039;&#039; Even if there&#039;s no coloured summoning/conquest task on the board, one will eventually pop up. (Caveat: do not casually leave pieces on red squares if you are playing against Highland and they haven&#039;t yet played Blood Shaman.)&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;Do not let your opponent set up camp far away from you.&#039;&#039; Make sure you are always able to destroy a piece or two of theirs.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;2) Hand Management&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;Play or discard cards rather than letting them go stale.&#039;&#039; Don&#039;t grow too attached to a card unless you&#039;re absolutely sure you need to use it soon to accomplish a task. If it&#039;s not helping you, get rid of it by summoning it, even if you can&#039;t trigger its effects, or discarding it. The smaller your deck, the more precise your endgame play will be, as you will know with certainty what you will draw; and if you cannot score 9 points, you want to be the person who triggers the endgame by running out of cards. -- By discarding you can also get rid of a flare that is hard to trigger, or Legends that are not useful.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;Anticipate key cards in your deck.&#039;&#039; Don&#039;t just set up existing patterns in your hand (though do that too!); if you know a useful card is in your deck, try to keep a few pieces on the board that will help you achieve that pattern. It might be the next card you draw. (E.g. if you have the Highland deck, try to maintain a few pieces at the corners of a green square in anticipation of Ritual Master, or a bow-shape for Warlord / Eagle Lord.) When you&#039;re just starting out, it is impossible to remember all the cards, but be aware of the most powerful and disruptive ones: Hypnotist and Bomb (North/South Empire); Everfrost Sentinel; Blood Shaman and Ritual Master (Highland); Forest Ancient (Sylvan); and Leviathan and Time Elemental (Legends).&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;Track the cards.&#039;&#039; If you are playing a turn-based game, use the Notes feature of BGA to keep track of both your cards and your opponent&#039;s.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;Learn the decks and Legendary Beings.&#039;&#039; To reiterate: as a beginner, &#039;&#039;do not worry about memorizing every single card!&#039;&#039; But eventually you will need to be able to recognize patterns that your opponent is trying to form, and know what&#039;s coming up in your own deck that might be useful.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;3) Flares&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;Be wary of flares.&#039;&#039; A typical beginner&#039;s mistake is to assume that accumulating more pieces than your opponent, and destroying many of your opponent&#039;s pieces, is a good idea. But &#039;&#039;&#039;this approach will usually lose the game,&#039;&#039;&#039; because it gives an opponent the opportunity to flare every turn. Extra actions are extremely valuable in Tash-Kalar--often they are the deciding factor in claiming a task or totally reshaping the board--so don&#039;t let your opponent get flares easily. If you are ahead in piece-count, try to stay ahead by a maximum of 2 heroic pieces and 3 pieces in total--this guarantees that only one flare (the 2/5 one) is playable. If you must exceed that limit, avoid triggering top and bottom flares at once. (The upper number on flares ranges from 2 to 5; the lower number from 4 to 6.)&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;Play your flare!&#039;&#039; If you can play it, the vast majority of the time you should. This is true even if it does nothing helpful--in that case, play it simply to discard it and get a more useful one in return.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;4) Tasks&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;Prioritize 1- and 2-point tasks, not 3-pointers and Legends.&#039;&#039; In particular, Side Chain and Corner Chain are very difficult to achieve without an exorbitant cost. Legends are good but since the 1 point they give is no better than an easily achievable 1-point task, and can be taken away from you, they should not be a major priority unless they help accomplish a task. You need to claim very easy tasks before your opponent does, as they stack up quickly--in particular, never leave End of Legends, Heroic Destruction or Rainbow Domination unclaimed for long, as they are the easiest 2-point tasks to claim.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;5) Opening Moves&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
In general (though this advice is dependent on your initial draw and the first tasks available), place your first pieces near the centre but somewhat off-centre, and in the vicinity of coloured squares. This maximizes control of the board, positional flexibility, and ability to engage in direct conflict or move away from it. If your hand is full of 2- and 3-piece patterns, being right next to your opponent&#039;s pieces is good, as you will be able to destroy their pieces easily. If it&#039;s full of 4- and 5-piece patterns, keep more distance at first.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;6) Patience&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Tash-Kalar games tend to have a dramatic mid-game &amp;quot;bounce&amp;quot;: it is very hard to hang on to an early lead, because the player in the lead will have typically grabbed all the tasks they can easily grab, used their best cards, and be on the verge of giving up flares. If you are behind, even by a substantial number of points, do not give in easily, especially since you will have a more precise sense of what&#039;s in your deck and your opponent&#039;s and can plan accordingly. If you are ahead, be wary: start reducing your piece-count, and if you have a strong lead, summon (or discard) Beings as much as possible to hasten the endgame.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== Cards ==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Here is a full list of all cards in Tash-Kalar&#039;s BGA implementation (numbers denote the pieces in the pattern):&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;IMPERIAL&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
* 2: Messenger, Swordmaster, Bomb&lt;br /&gt;
* 3: Chronicler, Herald, High Priestess, Summoner, Cannon, Assassin&lt;br /&gt;
* 4: Gryphon Rider, Knight, Master of Intrigue, Cavalry Captain, Infantry Captain, Champion, Time Mage, Gun Tower, Hypnotist&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;SYLVAN&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
* 2: Sapling, Kiskin Farseeders, Forest Wardens&lt;br /&gt;
* 3: Naiad, Charging Buck, Kiskin Spirit, Dryad, Forest Mystic, Sylvan Princess, Woodland Druid&lt;br /&gt;
* 4: Unicorn, Kiskin Boughrunner, Kiskin Leafsplitter, Centaur Spearman, Forest Ancient, Centaur Chieftain, Sylvan Queen, Tree Shepherd&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;HIGHLAND&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
* 2: Ritual Keeper, Wild Eagle, Clan Axeman&lt;br /&gt;
* 3: Dire Wolf, Clan Healer, Clan Guardian, Ritual Master, Hungry Bear&lt;br /&gt;
* 4: Wolf Rider, Mountain Troll, Hill Giant, Eagle Lord, War Summoner, War Drummer, Legend Slayer, Blood Shaman, Werewolf&lt;br /&gt;
* 5: Warlord&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;EVERFROST&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
* 2: Snow Fox, Crystal Mirror, Crystal Grower&lt;br /&gt;
* 3: Ice Princess, Royal Reindeer, Frostweave Illusionist, Frostweave Summoner, Frost Imp, Frozen Chest&lt;br /&gt;
* 4: Winter Whisperer, Glacier Giant, Ice Queen, Ice Wyvern, Everfrost Sentinel, Deathbringer, War Sled, Polar Bear, Snow Monster&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;LEGENDS&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
* Time Elemental, Earth Elemental, Fire Elemental, Storm Elemental, Leviathan, Hell Bull, Angel of Death, Two-Headed Dragon, Fire Dragon, Titan, Bone Catapult&lt;/div&gt;</summary>
		<author><name>Nandblock</name></author>
	</entry>
	<entry>
		<id>https://gl.doc.boardgamearena.com/index.php?title=Tips_madeira&amp;diff=2463</id>
		<title>Tips madeira</title>
		<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="https://gl.doc.boardgamearena.com/index.php?title=Tips_madeira&amp;diff=2463"/>
		<updated>2017-06-09T18:12:08Z</updated>

		<summary type="html">&lt;p&gt;Nandblock: &lt;/p&gt;
&lt;hr /&gt;
&lt;div&gt;== Worker Placement ==&lt;br /&gt;
You need at least one worker in Regions 2 and 3 most of the time, as the building actions here are vital to winning; and in the forest. Whether you wish to keep one or more workers in Region 1 will depend in part on how heavily you plan to invest in colonists, since it has only one building to activate.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;Region 1:&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
:&#039;&#039;Alfândega (Customs)&#039;&#039;: By having colonists, you save yourself having to take harvest actions; in addition, it is a steady source of PP if you have ships in the colonies. This strategy works well with the Expeditions Crown Request.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;Region 2:&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
:&#039;&#039;Moinho (Mill)&#039;&#039;: A reliable end-of-round source of 5 bread, if you have 3 workers in this region.&lt;br /&gt;
:&#039;&#039;Capitania (Captaincy)&#039;&#039;: The main way to move workers into the city. If you have 3 workers in the region, you can earn an easy 15 points over 5 rounds.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;Region 3:&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
:&#039;&#039;Casa da Coroa (Guild Palace)&#039;&#039;: Important once you have accumulated guild favours.&lt;br /&gt;
:&#039;&#039;Fortaleza (Watch Tower)&#039;&#039;: The most powerful building on the board; it is a rare round that you will not want to place a guild die here. Placing one or two workers in the City Watch accomplishes 3 things simultaneously: discarding pirates, enabling you to use pirate die, and scoring 4 VPs if you have a majority in the Honor phase.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== Getting and Losing Pirates ==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
There are two main approaches to pirates: (1) try to avoid having any by game-end (thus handing your opponent a large point penalty if they did not discard their own pirates); (2) try to score so much without paying building/maintenance costs that the 16-point penalty for having most pirates is of little concern. (Try to avoid the extra penalty for having more than 20 pirates, in any case.)&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
It is quite possible to discard all pirates by game-end. To play optimally, however, you will need to take pirates in opening rounds in order to conserve money, bread or wood, then discard them later. It is rarely possible to achieve much in the game while paying everything as you go.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The main way of discarding pirates is placing workers in the City Watch, via Fortaleza or other means (Scout, the 3rd passing favour, the King&#039;s favour). All these actions discard 3 pirates (or 6 if you activate Fortaleza&#039;s stronger ability). Therefore, as you approach the endgame, make sure you have an even multiple of 3 pirates. (Constable allows you to discard half your pirates; it is the only exception to the rule of 3. If you are going for a pirate-heavy strategy, grab this favour.)&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Putting a guild die on Fortaleza (if you have workers in Region 3) lets you skip paying for earlier building actions, then discard the resulting pirates at Fortaleza: an efficient way to conserve money if you don&#039;t need some earlier building actions.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== Bread ==&lt;br /&gt;
Never start a round without bread, as you need it to modify dice. Take a few pirates if necessary to hang on to some bread.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== The Windmill ==&lt;br /&gt;
Do not neglect to use the Windmill to trade goods, gain bread, etc. Whenever you can, especially early in the game, move up the Windmill to conserve bread. (The Miller guild favour is especially useful for this.)&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== Passing ==&lt;br /&gt;
More actions is not necessarily better: try to pass early, once you&#039;ve completed all actions you absolutely must do. Unless you urgently need an action lower on the passing column, grab as high a spot as possible. Consider taking the 2 reals to guarantee first pick of dice, request, and guild to unflip.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== Crown Requests ==&lt;br /&gt;
When selecting crown requests, consider whether they work well together, what round you will fulfill them in, and what requests will be left unclaimed for future rounds. In general you want to avoid ending up with multiple copies of the same request in Round 5, as the 2nd copy will usually score little or nothing.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
: &#039;&#039;Urbanization&#039;&#039; (city workers) is the most useful request, in Round 1 especially, as you are guaranteed to score some points with no effort, and scoring 12 or 15  is relatively easy.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
: &#039;&#039;Wealth of the Nations&#039;&#039; (money) is poor in Rounds 1 and 3, but better in Round 5; money is too useful before then to waste on it. At game end it effectively nets only 12 points maximum (since 15 reals = 3 points), the lowest maximum of all the requests.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
: &#039;&#039;Influence of the Guilds&#039;&#039; can yield 15 or 20 points in Rounds 3 and 5, the highest potential return on a single request. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
: &#039;&#039;Market Routes&#039;&#039; and &#039;&#039;Expeditions&#039;&#039; both score up to 18 points. But avoid having to fulfill them simultaneously in Round 3 or 5; the wood/money upkeep on 6 ships simultaneously in play is onerous.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
It is helpful to have complementary requests in hand: Market Routes + Wealth of the Nations (trade routes get you money); Influence of the Guilds + Urbanization (claiming Guild favours clears space for urbanization).&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== Endgame ==&lt;br /&gt;
Keep in mind that you need to marshal your resources carefully in endgame--hopefully by this point you have an engine for making money while also discarding pirates. Depending on your setup, you want a max of 3 or 6 pirates by the time you reach Fortaleza. Keep in mind that if you don&#039;t have enough wood and bread on hand at game-end, you will take a lot of last-minute pirates: a small shortfall in wood is not fatal (as you can pay for it), but a shortfall in bread cannot be made up, so make sure your position on the windmill + available bread is sufficient. (Also: start moving workers off the board to conserve bread in the last round: use Watch dice, or obtain a Watch majority and remove a worker to 4 PP).&lt;/div&gt;</summary>
		<author><name>Nandblock</name></author>
	</entry>
	<entry>
		<id>https://gl.doc.boardgamearena.com/index.php?title=Tips_madeira&amp;diff=2462</id>
		<title>Tips madeira</title>
		<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="https://gl.doc.boardgamearena.com/index.php?title=Tips_madeira&amp;diff=2462"/>
		<updated>2017-06-09T18:04:02Z</updated>

		<summary type="html">&lt;p&gt;Nandblock: /* Getting and Losing Pirates */&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;hr /&gt;
&lt;div&gt;== Worker Placement ==&lt;br /&gt;
You need at least one worker in Regions 2 and 3 most of the time, as the building actions here are vital to winning; and in the forest. Whether you wish to keep one or more workers in Region 1 will depend in part on how heavily you plan to invest in colonists, since it has only one building to activate.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;Region 1:&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
:&#039;&#039;Alfândega (Customs)&#039;&#039;: By having colonists, you save yourself having to take harvest actions; in addition, it is a steady source of PP if you have ships in the colonies. This strategy works well with the Expeditions Crown Request.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;Region 2:&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
:&#039;&#039;Moinho (Mill)&#039;&#039;: A reliable end-of-round source of 5 bread, if you have 3 workers in this region.&lt;br /&gt;
:&#039;&#039;Capitania (Captaincy)&#039;&#039;: The main way to move workers into the city. If you have 3 workers in the region, you can earn an easy 15 points over 5 rounds.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;Region 3:&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
:&#039;&#039;Casa da Coroa (Guild Palace)&#039;&#039;: Important once you have accumulated guild favours.&lt;br /&gt;
:&#039;&#039;Fortaleza (Watch Tower)&#039;&#039;: The most powerful building on the board; it is a rare round that you will not want to place a guild die here. Placing one or two workers in the City Watch accomplishes 3 things simultaneously: discarding pirates, enabling you to use pirate die, and scoring 4 VPs if you have a majority in the Honor phase.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== Getting and Losing Pirates ==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
There are two main approaches to pirates: (1) try to avoid having any by game-end (thus handing your opponent a large point penalty if they did not discard their own pirates); (2) try to score so much without paying building/maintenance costs that the 16-point penalty for having most pirates is of little concern. (Try to avoid the extra penalty for having more than 20 pirates, in any case.)&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
It is quite possible to discard all pirates by game-end. To play optimally, however, you will need to take pirates in opening rounds in order to conserve money, bread or wood, then discard them later. It is rarely possible to achieve much in the game while paying everything as you go.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The main way of discarding pirates is placing workers in the City Watch, via Fortaleza or other means (Scout, the 3rd passing favour, the King&#039;s favour). All these actions discard 3 pirates (or 6 if you activate Fortaleza&#039;s stronger ability). Therefore, as you approach the endgame, make sure you have an even multiple of 3 pirates. (Constable allows you to discard half your pirates; it is the only exception to the rule of 3. If you are going for a pirate-heavy strategy, grab this favour.)&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Putting a guild die on Fortaleza (if you have workers in Region 3) lets you skip paying for earlier building actions, then discard the resulting pirates at Fortaleza: an efficient way to conserve money if you don&#039;t need some earlier building actions.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== Bread ==&lt;br /&gt;
Never start a round without bread, as you need it to modify dice. Take a few pirates if necessary to hang on to some bread.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== The Windmill ==&lt;br /&gt;
Do not neglect to use the Windmill to trade goods, gain bread, etc. Whenever you can, especially early in the game, move up the Windmill to conserve bread. (The Miller guild favour is especially useful for this.)&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== Passing ==&lt;br /&gt;
More actions is not necessarily better: try to pass early, once you&#039;ve completed all actions you absolutely must do. Unless you urgently need an action lower on the passing column, grab as high a spot as possible. Consider taking the 2 reals to guarantee first pick of dice, request, and guild to unflip.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== Crown Requests ==&lt;br /&gt;
When selecting crown requests, consider whether they work well together, what round you will fulfill them in, and what requests will be left unclaimed for future rounds. In general you want to avoid ending up with multiple copies of the same request in Round 5, as the 2nd copy will usually score little or nothing.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
: &#039;&#039;Urbanization&#039;&#039; (city workers) is the most useful request, in Round 1 especially, as you are guaranteed to score some points with no effort, and scoring 12 or 15  is relatively easy.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
: &#039;&#039;Wealth of the Nations&#039;&#039; (money) is poor in Rounds 1 and 3, but better in Round 5; money is too useful before then to waste on it. At game end it effectively nets only 12 points maximum (since 15 reals = 3 points), the lowest maximum of all the requests.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
: &#039;&#039;Influence of the Guilds&#039;&#039; can yield 15 or 20 points in Rounds 3 and 5, the highest potential return on a single request. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
: &#039;&#039;Market Routes&#039;&#039; and &#039;&#039;Expeditions&#039;&#039; both score up to 18 points. But avoid having to fulfill them simultaneously in Round 3 or 5; the wood/money upkeep on 6 ships simultaneously in play is onerous.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
It is helpful to have complementary requests in hand: Market Routes + Wealth of the Nations (trade routes get you money); Influence of the Guilds + Urbanization (claiming Guild favours clears space for urbanization).&lt;/div&gt;</summary>
		<author><name>Nandblock</name></author>
	</entry>
	<entry>
		<id>https://gl.doc.boardgamearena.com/index.php?title=Tips_madeira&amp;diff=2461</id>
		<title>Tips madeira</title>
		<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="https://gl.doc.boardgamearena.com/index.php?title=Tips_madeira&amp;diff=2461"/>
		<updated>2017-06-09T18:01:34Z</updated>

		<summary type="html">&lt;p&gt;Nandblock: /* Worker Placement */&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;hr /&gt;
&lt;div&gt;== Worker Placement ==&lt;br /&gt;
You need at least one worker in Regions 2 and 3 most of the time, as the building actions here are vital to winning; and in the forest. Whether you wish to keep one or more workers in Region 1 will depend in part on how heavily you plan to invest in colonists, since it has only one building to activate.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;Region 1:&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
:&#039;&#039;Alfândega (Customs)&#039;&#039;: By having colonists, you save yourself having to take harvest actions; in addition, it is a steady source of PP if you have ships in the colonies. This strategy works well with the Expeditions Crown Request.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;Region 2:&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
:&#039;&#039;Moinho (Mill)&#039;&#039;: A reliable end-of-round source of 5 bread, if you have 3 workers in this region.&lt;br /&gt;
:&#039;&#039;Capitania (Captaincy)&#039;&#039;: The main way to move workers into the city. If you have 3 workers in the region, you can earn an easy 15 points over 5 rounds.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;Region 3:&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
:&#039;&#039;Casa da Coroa (Guild Palace)&#039;&#039;: Important once you have accumulated guild favours.&lt;br /&gt;
:&#039;&#039;Fortaleza (Watch Tower)&#039;&#039;: The most powerful building on the board; it is a rare round that you will not want to place a guild die here. Placing one or two workers in the City Watch accomplishes 3 things simultaneously: discarding pirates, enabling you to use pirate die, and scoring 4 VPs if you have a majority in the Honor phase.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== Getting and Losing Pirates ==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
There are two main approaches to pirates: (1) try to avoid having any by game-end (thus handing your opponent a potential 16 or 8 point penalty if they did not discard their pirates); (2) try to score so much without paying building/maintenance costs that the 16-point penalty for having most pirates is of little concern. (Try to avoid the extra penalty for having more than 20 pirates, in any case.)&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
It is quite possible to discard all pirates by game-end. To play optimally, however, you will need to take pirates in opening rounds in order to conserve money, bread or wood, then discard them later.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The main way of discarding pirates is placing workers in the City Watch, via Fortaleza or other means (Scout, the 3rd passing favour, the King&#039;s favour). All these actions discard 3 pirates (or 6 if you activate Fortaleza&#039;s stronger ability). Therefore, especially as you approach the endgame, make sure you have an even multiple of 3 pirates. (Constable allows you to discard half your pirates; it is the only exception to the rule of 3. If you are going for a pirate-heavy strategy, grab this favour.)&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Putting a guild die on Fortaleza (if you have workers in Region 3) lets you skip paying for earlier building actions, then discard the resulting pirates at Fortaleza: a very efficient way to conserve money if you don&#039;t need the earlier building actions.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== Bread ==&lt;br /&gt;
Never start a round without bread, as you need it to modify dice. Take a few pirates if necessary to hang on to some bread.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== The Windmill ==&lt;br /&gt;
Do not neglect to use the Windmill to trade goods, gain bread, etc. Whenever you can, especially early in the game, move up the Windmill to conserve bread. (The Miller guild favour is especially useful for this.)&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== Passing ==&lt;br /&gt;
More actions is not necessarily better: try to pass early, once you&#039;ve completed all actions you absolutely must do. Unless you urgently need an action lower on the passing column, grab as high a spot as possible. Consider taking the 2 reals to guarantee first pick of dice, request, and guild to unflip.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== Crown Requests ==&lt;br /&gt;
When selecting crown requests, consider whether they work well together, what round you will fulfill them in, and what requests will be left unclaimed for future rounds. In general you want to avoid ending up with multiple copies of the same request in Round 5, as the 2nd copy will usually score little or nothing.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
: &#039;&#039;Urbanization&#039;&#039; (city workers) is the most useful request, in Round 1 especially, as you are guaranteed to score some points with no effort, and scoring 12 or 15  is relatively easy.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
: &#039;&#039;Wealth of the Nations&#039;&#039; (money) is poor in Rounds 1 and 3, but better in Round 5; money is too useful before then to waste on it. At game end it effectively nets only 12 points maximum (since 15 reals = 3 points), the lowest maximum of all the requests.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
: &#039;&#039;Influence of the Guilds&#039;&#039; can yield 15 or 20 points in Rounds 3 and 5, the highest potential return on a single request. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
: &#039;&#039;Market Routes&#039;&#039; and &#039;&#039;Expeditions&#039;&#039; both score up to 18 points. But avoid having to fulfill them simultaneously in Round 3 or 5; the wood/money upkeep on 6 ships simultaneously in play is onerous.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
It is helpful to have complementary requests in hand: Market Routes + Wealth of the Nations (trade routes get you money); Influence of the Guilds + Urbanization (claiming Guild favours clears space for urbanization).&lt;/div&gt;</summary>
		<author><name>Nandblock</name></author>
	</entry>
	<entry>
		<id>https://gl.doc.boardgamearena.com/index.php?title=Tips_madeira&amp;diff=2277</id>
		<title>Tips madeira</title>
		<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="https://gl.doc.boardgamearena.com/index.php?title=Tips_madeira&amp;diff=2277"/>
		<updated>2017-03-15T17:37:26Z</updated>

		<summary type="html">&lt;p&gt;Nandblock: /* Getting and Losing Pirates */&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;hr /&gt;
&lt;div&gt;== Worker Placement ==&lt;br /&gt;
You need at least one worker in Regions 2 and 3 most of the time, as the building actions here are vital to winning; and in the forest. Region 1 is less useful, since it has only one building to activate, unless your strategy depends heavily on colonists--in which case, move them there as soon as possible to maximize the number of rounds they can produce.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;Region 1:&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
:&#039;&#039;Alfândega (Customs)&#039;&#039;: If you have workers in Region 1 this building action can be used to earn an extra PP for each of the player&#039;s ships in a particular colony, in addition to the resources gained during Phase D for each colonist. This strategy works well with the Expeditions Crown Request.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;Region 2:&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
:&#039;&#039;Moinho (Mill)&#039;&#039;: A reliable end-of-round source of 5 bread, if you have 3 workers in this region.&lt;br /&gt;
:&#039;&#039;Capitania (Captaincy)&#039;&#039;: The main way to move workers into the city. If you have 3 workers in the region, you can earn an easy 15 points over 5 rounds.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;Region 3:&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
:&#039;&#039;Casa da Coroa (Guild Palace)&#039;&#039;: Important once you have accumulated guild favours.&lt;br /&gt;
:&#039;&#039;Fortaleza (Watch Tower)&#039;&#039;: The most powerful building on the board; it is a rare round that you will not want to place a guild die here. Placing one or two workers in the City Watch accomplishes 3 things simultaneously: discarding pirates, enabling you to use pirate die, and scoring 4 VPs if you have a majority in the Honor phase.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== Getting and Losing Pirates ==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
There are two main approaches to pirates: (1) try to avoid having any by game-end (thus handing your opponent a potential 16 or 8 point penalty if they did not discard their pirates); (2) try to score so much without paying building/maintenance costs that the 16-point penalty for having most pirates is of little concern. (Try to avoid the extra penalty for having more than 20 pirates, in any case.)&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
It is quite possible to discard all pirates by game-end. To play optimally, however, you will need to take pirates in opening rounds in order to conserve money, bread or wood, then discard them later.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The main way of discarding pirates is placing workers in the City Watch, via Fortaleza or other means (Scout, the 3rd passing favour, the King&#039;s favour). All these actions discard 3 pirates (or 6 if you activate Fortaleza&#039;s stronger ability). Therefore, especially as you approach the endgame, make sure you have an even multiple of 3 pirates. (Constable allows you to discard half your pirates; it is the only exception to the rule of 3. If you are going for a pirate-heavy strategy, grab this favour.)&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Putting a guild die on Fortaleza (if you have workers in Region 3) lets you skip paying for earlier building actions, then discard the resulting pirates at Fortaleza: a very efficient way to conserve money if you don&#039;t need the earlier building actions.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== Bread ==&lt;br /&gt;
Never start a round without bread, as you need it to modify dice. Take a few pirates if necessary to hang on to some bread.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== The Windmill ==&lt;br /&gt;
Do not neglect to use the Windmill to trade goods, gain bread, etc. Whenever you can, especially early in the game, move up the Windmill to conserve bread. (The Miller guild favour is especially useful for this.)&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== Passing ==&lt;br /&gt;
More actions is not necessarily better: try to pass early, once you&#039;ve completed all actions you absolutely must do. Unless you urgently need an action lower on the passing column, grab as high a spot as possible. Consider taking the 2 reals to guarantee first pick of dice, request, and guild to unflip.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== Crown Requests ==&lt;br /&gt;
When selecting crown requests, consider whether they work well together, what round you will fulfill them in, and what requests will be left unclaimed for future rounds. In general you want to avoid ending up with multiple copies of the same request in Round 5, as the 2nd copy will usually score little or nothing.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
: &#039;&#039;Urbanization&#039;&#039; (city workers) is the most useful request, in Round 1 especially, as you are guaranteed to score some points with no effort, and scoring 12 or 15  is relatively easy.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
: &#039;&#039;Wealth of the Nations&#039;&#039; (money) is poor in Rounds 1 and 3, but better in Round 5; money is too useful before then to waste on it. At game end it effectively nets only 12 points maximum (since 15 reals = 3 points), the lowest maximum of all the requests.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
: &#039;&#039;Influence of the Guilds&#039;&#039; can yield 15 or 20 points in Rounds 3 and 5, the highest potential return on a single request. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
: &#039;&#039;Market Routes&#039;&#039; and &#039;&#039;Expeditions&#039;&#039; both score up to 18 points. But avoid having to fulfill them simultaneously in Round 3 or 5; the wood/money upkeep on 6 ships simultaneously in play is onerous.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
It is helpful to have complementary requests in hand: Market Routes + Wealth of the Nations (trade routes get you money); Influence of the Guilds + Urbanization (claiming Guild favours clears space for urbanization).&lt;/div&gt;</summary>
		<author><name>Nandblock</name></author>
	</entry>
	<entry>
		<id>https://gl.doc.boardgamearena.com/index.php?title=Tips_madeira&amp;diff=2275</id>
		<title>Tips madeira</title>
		<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="https://gl.doc.boardgamearena.com/index.php?title=Tips_madeira&amp;diff=2275"/>
		<updated>2017-03-15T17:27:52Z</updated>

		<summary type="html">&lt;p&gt;Nandblock: /* Worker Placement */&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;hr /&gt;
&lt;div&gt;== Worker Placement ==&lt;br /&gt;
You need at least one worker in Regions 2 and 3 most of the time, as the building actions here are vital to winning; and in the forest. Region 1 is less useful, since it has only one building to activate, unless your strategy depends heavily on colonists--in which case, move them there as soon as possible to maximize the number of rounds they can produce.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;Region 1:&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
:&#039;&#039;Alfândega (Customs)&#039;&#039;: If you have workers in Region 1 this building action can be used to earn an extra PP for each of the player&#039;s ships in a particular colony, in addition to the resources gained during Phase D for each colonist. This strategy works well with the Expeditions Crown Request.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;Region 2:&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
:&#039;&#039;Moinho (Mill)&#039;&#039;: A reliable end-of-round source of 5 bread, if you have 3 workers in this region.&lt;br /&gt;
:&#039;&#039;Capitania (Captaincy)&#039;&#039;: The main way to move workers into the city. If you have 3 workers in the region, you can earn an easy 15 points over 5 rounds.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;Region 3:&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
:&#039;&#039;Casa da Coroa (Guild Palace)&#039;&#039;: Important once you have accumulated guild favours.&lt;br /&gt;
:&#039;&#039;Fortaleza (Watch Tower)&#039;&#039;: The most powerful building on the board; it is a rare round that you will not want to place a guild die here. Placing one or two workers in the City Watch accomplishes 3 things simultaneously: discarding pirates, enabling you to use pirate die, and scoring 4 VPs if you have a majority in the Honor phase.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== Getting and Losing Pirates ==&lt;br /&gt;
Plan to have no pirates at game end: otherwise, the potential 16-VP swing may cost you the game. To play optimally, however, you will need to take pirates in order to conserve money, bread or wood, then discard them later. That said, try not to leave yourself with more than 6 pirates at the end of a round.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The main way of discarding pirates is placing workers in the City Watch, via Fortaleza or other means (Scout, the 3rd passing favour, the King&#039;s favour). All these actions discard 3 pirates (or 6 if you activate Fortaleza&#039;s stronger ability). Therefore, especially as you approach the endgame, make sure you have an even multiple of 3 pirates. (Constable allows you to discard half your pirates; it is the only exception to the rule of 3.)&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Putting a guild die on Fortaleza (if you have workers in Region 3) lets you skip paying for an earlier building action, then discard the resulting pirates at Fortaleza: a very efficient way to conserve money.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== Bread ==&lt;br /&gt;
Never start a round without bread, as you need it to modify dice. Take a few pirates if necessary to hang on to some bread.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== The Windmill ==&lt;br /&gt;
Do not neglect to use the Windmill to trade goods, gain bread, etc. Whenever you can, especially early in the game, move up the Windmill to conserve bread. (The Miller guild favour is especially useful for this.)&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== Passing ==&lt;br /&gt;
More actions is not necessarily better: try to pass early, once you&#039;ve completed all actions you absolutely must do. Unless you urgently need an action lower on the passing column, grab as high a spot as possible. Consider taking the 2 reals to guarantee first pick of dice, request, and guild to unflip.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== Crown Requests ==&lt;br /&gt;
When selecting crown requests, consider whether they work well together, what round you will fulfill them in, and what requests will be left unclaimed for future rounds. In general you want to avoid ending up with multiple copies of the same request in Round 5, as the 2nd copy will usually score little or nothing.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
: &#039;&#039;Urbanization&#039;&#039; (city workers) is the most useful request, in Round 1 especially, as you are guaranteed to score some points with no effort, and scoring 12 or 15  is relatively easy.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
: &#039;&#039;Wealth of the Nations&#039;&#039; (money) is poor in Rounds 1 and 3, but better in Round 5; money is too useful before then to waste on it. At game end it effectively nets only 12 points maximum (since 15 reals = 3 points), the lowest maximum of all the requests.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
: &#039;&#039;Influence of the Guilds&#039;&#039; can yield 15 or 20 points in Rounds 3 and 5, the highest potential return on a single request. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
: &#039;&#039;Market Routes&#039;&#039; and &#039;&#039;Expeditions&#039;&#039; both score up to 18 points. But avoid having to fulfill them simultaneously in Round 3 or 5; the wood/money upkeep on 6 ships simultaneously in play is onerous.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
It is helpful to have complementary requests in hand: Market Routes + Wealth of the Nations (trade routes get you money); Influence of the Guilds + Urbanization (claiming Guild favours clears space for urbanization).&lt;/div&gt;</summary>
		<author><name>Nandblock</name></author>
	</entry>
	<entry>
		<id>https://gl.doc.boardgamearena.com/index.php?title=Tips_tashkalar&amp;diff=2244</id>
		<title>Tips tashkalar</title>
		<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="https://gl.doc.boardgamearena.com/index.php?title=Tips_tashkalar&amp;diff=2244"/>
		<updated>2017-02-18T00:37:42Z</updated>

		<summary type="html">&lt;p&gt;Nandblock: /* High Form Strategy */&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;hr /&gt;
&lt;div&gt;== High Form Strategy ==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;1) Board Management&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;Keep your piece-count down.&#039;&#039; If a piece of your own is not helping your position and you have a chance to destroy it, do so rather than destroying an enemy piece--this puts you rather than them closer to a flare. If you&#039;re ahead in the game and your piece count is high, consider discarding cards or summoning a being on top of your own piece (oversummoning) to avoid placing another piece on the board.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;Keep your pieces together.&#039;&#039; If your position is dispersed, those pieces will add to your piece-count, making it impossible to get a life-saving flare while being useless for summoning or claiming tasks.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;Place pieces on or around coloured squares by preference.&#039;&#039; Even if there&#039;s no coloured summoning/conquest task on the board, one will eventually pop up. (Caveat: do not casually leave pieces on red squares if you are playing against Highland and they haven&#039;t yet played Blood Shaman.)&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;Do not let your opponent set up camp far away from you.&#039;&#039; Make sure you are always able to destroy a piece or two of theirs.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;2) Hand Management&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;Play or discard cards rather than letting them go stale.&#039;&#039; Don&#039;t grow too attached to a card unless you&#039;re absolutely sure you need to use it soon to accomplish a task. If it&#039;s not helping you, get rid of it by summoning it, even if you can&#039;t trigger its effects, or discarding it. The smaller your deck, the more precise your endgame play will be, as you will know with certainty what you will draw; and if you cannot score 9 points, you want to be the person who triggers the endgame by running out of cards. -- By discarding you can also get rid of a flare that is hard to trigger, or Legends that are not useful.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;Anticipate key cards in your deck.&#039;&#039; Don&#039;t just set up existing patterns in your hand (though do that too!); if you know a useful card is in your deck, try to keep a few pieces on the board that will help you achieve that pattern. It might be the next card you draw. (E.g. if you have the Highland deck, try to maintain a few pieces at the corners of a green square in anticipation of Ritual Master, or a bow-shape for Warlord / Eagle Lord.) When you&#039;re just starting out, it is impossible to remember all the cards, but be aware of the most powerful and disruptive ones: Hypnotist and Bomb (North/South Empire); Everfrost Sentinel; Blood Shaman and Ritual Master (Highland); Forest Ancient (Sylvan); and Leviathan and Time Elemental (Legends).&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;Track the cards.&#039;&#039; If you are playing a turn-based game, use the Notes feature of BGA to keep track of both your cards and your opponent&#039;s.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;Learn the decks and Legendary Beings.&#039;&#039; To reiterate: as a beginner, &#039;&#039;do not worry about memorizing every single card!&#039;&#039; But eventually you will need to be able to recognize patterns that your opponent is trying to form, and know what&#039;s coming up in your own deck that might be useful.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;3) Flares&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;Be wary of flares.&#039;&#039; A typical beginner&#039;s mistake iis to assume that accumulating more pieces than your opponent, and destroying many of your opponent&#039;s pieces, is a good idea. But &#039;&#039;&#039;this approach will usually lose the game,&#039;&#039;&#039; because it gives an opponent the opportunity to flare every turn. Extra actions are extremely valuable in Tash-Kalar--often they are the deciding factor in claiming a task or totally reshaping the board--so don&#039;t let your opponent get flares easily. If you are ahead in piece-count, try to stay ahead by a maximum of 2 heroic pieces and 3 pieces in total--this guarantees that only one flare (the 2/5 one) is playable. If you must exceed that limit, avoid triggering top and bottom flares at once. (The upper number on flares ranges from 2 to 5; the lower number from 4 to 6.)&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;Play your flare!&#039;&#039; If you can play it, the vast majority of the time you should. This is true even if it does nothing helpful--in that case, play it simply to discard it and get a more useful one in return.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;4) Tasks&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;Prioritize 1- and 2-point tasks, not 3-pointers and Legends.&#039;&#039; In particular, Side Chain and Corner Chain are very difficult to achieve without an exorbitant cost. Legends are good but since the 1 point they give is no better than an easily achievable 1-point task, and can be taken away from you, they should not be a major priority unless they help accomplish a task. You need to claim very easy tasks before your opponent does, as they stack up quickly--in particular, never leave End of Legends, Heroic Destruction or Rainbow Domination unclaimed for long, as they are the easiest 2-point tasks to claim.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;5) Opening Moves&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
In general (though this advice is dependent on your initial draw and the first tasks available), place your first pieces near the centre but somewhat off-centre, and in the vicinity of coloured squares. This maximizes control of the board, positional flexibility, and ability to engage in direct conflict or move away from it. If your hand is full of 2- and 3-piece patterns, being right next to your opponent&#039;s pieces is good, as you will be able to destroy their pieces easily. If it&#039;s full of 4- and 5-piece patterns, keep more distance at first.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;6) Patience&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Tash-Kalar games tend to have a dramatic mid-game &amp;quot;bounce&amp;quot;: it is very hard to hang on to an early lead, because the player in the lead will have typically grabbed all the tasks they can easily grab, used their best cards, and be on the verge of giving up flares. If you are behind, even by a substantial number of points, do not give in easily, especially since you will have a more precise sense of what&#039;s in your deck and your opponent&#039;s and can plan accordingly. If you are ahead, be wary: start reducing your piece-count, and if you have a strong lead, summon (or discard) Beings as much as possible to hasten the endgame.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== Cards ==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Here is a full list of all cards in Tash-Kalar&#039;s BGA implementation (numbers denote the pieces in the pattern):&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;IMPERIAL&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
* 2: Messenger, Swordmaster, Bomb&lt;br /&gt;
* 3: Chronicler, Herald, High Priestess, Summoner, Cannon, Assassin&lt;br /&gt;
* 4: Gryphon Rider, Knight, Master of Intrigue, Cavalry Captain, Infantry Captain, Champion, Time Mage, Gun Tower, Hypnotist&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;SYLVAN&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
* 2: Sapling, Kiskin Farseeders, Forest Wardens&lt;br /&gt;
* 3: Naiad, Charging Buck, Kiskin Spirit, Dryad, Forest Mystic, Sylvan Princess, Woodland Druid&lt;br /&gt;
* 4: Unicorn, Kiskin Boughrunner, Kiskin Leafsplitter, Centaur Spearman, Forest Ancient, Centaur Chieftain, Sylvan Queen, Tree Shepherd&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;HIGHLAND&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
* 2: Ritual Keeper, Wild Eagle, Clan Axeman&lt;br /&gt;
* 3: Dire Wolf, Clan Healer, Clan Guardian, Ritual Master, Hungry Bear&lt;br /&gt;
* 4: Wolf Rider, Mountain Troll, Hill Giant, Eagle Lord, War Summoner, War Drummer, Legend Slayer, Blood Shaman, Werewolf&lt;br /&gt;
* 5: Warlord&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;EVERFROST&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
* 2: Snow Fox, Crystal Mirror, Crystal Grower&lt;br /&gt;
* 3: Ice Princess, Royal Reindeer, Frostweave Illusionist, Frostweave Summoner, Frost Imp, Frozen Chest&lt;br /&gt;
* 4: Winter Whisperer, Glacier Giant, Ice Queen, Ice Wyvern, Everfrost Sentinel, Deathbringer, War Sled, Polar Bear, Snow Monster&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;LEGENDS&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
* Time Elemental, Earth Elemental, Fire Elemental, Storm Elemental, Leviathan, Hell Bull, Angel of Death, Two-Headed Dragon, Fire Dragon, Titan, Bone Catapult&lt;/div&gt;</summary>
		<author><name>Nandblock</name></author>
	</entry>
	<entry>
		<id>https://gl.doc.boardgamearena.com/index.php?title=Conversa:Gamehelpincangold&amp;diff=2243</id>
		<title>Conversa:Gamehelpincangold</title>
		<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="https://gl.doc.boardgamearena.com/index.php?title=Conversa:Gamehelpincangold&amp;diff=2243"/>
		<updated>2017-02-15T20:09:44Z</updated>

		<summary type="html">&lt;p&gt;Nandblock: Created page with &amp;quot;Is Incan Gold / Diamant even on BGA? Or is this a help page for a game in the process of adaptation for BGA? --nandblock&amp;quot;&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;hr /&gt;
&lt;div&gt;Is Incan Gold / Diamant even on BGA? Or is this a help page for a game in the process of adaptation for BGA? --nandblock&lt;/div&gt;</summary>
		<author><name>Nandblock</name></author>
	</entry>
	<entry>
		<id>https://gl.doc.boardgamearena.com/index.php?title=Conversa:Tips_nippon&amp;diff=2242</id>
		<title>Conversa:Tips nippon</title>
		<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="https://gl.doc.boardgamearena.com/index.php?title=Conversa:Tips_nippon&amp;diff=2242"/>
		<updated>2017-02-15T20:08:54Z</updated>

		<summary type="html">&lt;p&gt;Nandblock: Created page with &amp;quot;I felt the original version of the page missed out on a lot of important things (it just said it was an area control game and you should place all your tiles) so I scrapped it...&amp;quot;&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;hr /&gt;
&lt;div&gt;I felt the original version of the page missed out on a lot of important things (it just said it was an area control game and you should place all your tiles) so I scrapped it and started fresh. --nandblock&lt;/div&gt;</summary>
		<author><name>Nandblock</name></author>
	</entry>
	<entry>
		<id>https://gl.doc.boardgamearena.com/index.php?title=Tips_nippon&amp;diff=2241</id>
		<title>Tips nippon</title>
		<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="https://gl.doc.boardgamearena.com/index.php?title=Tips_nippon&amp;diff=2241"/>
		<updated>2017-02-15T19:38:06Z</updated>

		<summary type="html">&lt;p&gt;Nandblock: &lt;/p&gt;
&lt;hr /&gt;
&lt;div&gt;This is a game about efficiency, area control, and timing. Some key points:&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
In the long run it is more important to score in as many regions as possible, during as many of the 3 scoring rounds as possible, than it is to come in first in scoring any given region. Pay close attention to the advance of the scoring marker, and try to make sure that scoring triggers at a moment of advantage to you (i.e. after you have placed tiles down but before your opponents can do so).&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
When taking actions in the early game, concentrate on two worker colours to keep your post-consolidation costs down. Once you have risen on the money track (by filling contracts, typically), you are freer to take a third or fourth colour.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Do not concentrate on the knowledge track; it is useful to increase it to 2, but otherwise use blueprints to make up shortfalls. Every effort should be taken to increase the coal track and money track, however.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Several factories are highly desirable and should be acquired whenever possible:&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
* The silk factory immediately giving 5000 yen. If you&#039;re the first player, a standard opening is to buy this, and use the resulting money for a double machinery upgrade on the next turn.&lt;br /&gt;
* The paper factory yielding 2 blueprints: this will speed your acquisition of a second factory&lt;br /&gt;
* The factories immediately giving 2 ships, 2 trains, 2 steps on the coal track, and especially 2 machinery upgrades.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
In general, avoid acquiring two factories of the same level until the endgame: it&#039;s more important to focus on exploiting the ones you&#039;ve got. Tailor your acquisitions to the strengths of each region--if a particular region has two cities with the same need, that is a strong reason to focus on that type of factory. Upgrade your factories as rapidly and efficiently as possible.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
When placing tiles in a local market, give some thought to whether to use all your resources: it is sometimes good to place a lower value tile if it allows you to hang on to one or two cubes for a more powerful export action, or for later placement in another region. Placing lower-valued tiles also allows you more flexibility, as you can replace them later and gain the region bonus repeatedly in the process. You ultimately want to place your high-valued tiles to gain a stranglehold on multiple regions, of course, but don&#039;t discount the power of flooding a region with multiple smaller values which your opponents will have to waste time and resources on to dislodge.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
When gaining bonuses, both a rushing strategy (going 3 or 4 turns before consolidation) and a long-term strategy (5-6 turns) can work. Make sure you drop a 5x bonus on the spot for regional coverage--since you will want to have a toehold in all 4 regions, this is a guaranteed 20 points.&lt;/div&gt;</summary>
		<author><name>Nandblock</name></author>
	</entry>
	<entry>
		<id>https://gl.doc.boardgamearena.com/index.php?title=Tips_nippon&amp;diff=2240</id>
		<title>Tips nippon</title>
		<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="https://gl.doc.boardgamearena.com/index.php?title=Tips_nippon&amp;diff=2240"/>
		<updated>2017-02-15T19:36:28Z</updated>

		<summary type="html">&lt;p&gt;Nandblock: &lt;/p&gt;
&lt;hr /&gt;
&lt;div&gt;This is a game about efficiency, area control, and timing. Some key points:&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
In the long run it is more important to score in as many regions as possible, during as many of the 3 scoring rounds as possible, than it is to come in first in scoring any given region. Pay close attention to the advance of the scoring marker, and try to make sure that scoring triggers at a moment of advantage to you (i.e. after you have placed tiles down but before your opponents can do so).&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
When taking actions in the early game, concentrate on two worker colours to keep your post-consolidation costs down. Once you have risen on the money track (by filling contracts, typically), you are freer to take a third or fourth colour.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Do not concentrate on the knowledge track; it is useful to increase it to 2, but otherwise use blueprints to make up shortfalls. Every effort should be taken to increase the coal track and money track, however.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Several factories are highly desirable and should be acquired whenever possible:&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
- The silk factory immediately giving 5000 yen. If you&#039;re the first player, a standard opening is to buy this, and use the resulting money for a double machinery upgrade on the next turn.&lt;br /&gt;
- The paper factory yielding 2 blueprints: this will speed your acquisition of a second factory&lt;br /&gt;
- The factories immediately giving 2 ships, 2 trains, 2 steps on the coal track, and especially 2 machinery upgrades.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
In general, avoid acquiring two factories of the same level until the endgame: it&#039;s more important to focus on exploiting the ones you&#039;ve got. Tailor your acquisitions to the strengths of each region--if a particular region has two cities with the same need, that is a strong reason to focus on that type of factory. Upgrade your factories as rapidly and efficiently as possible.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
When placing tiles in a local market, give some thought to whether to use all your resources: it is sometimes good to place a lower value tile if it allows you to hang on to one or two cubes for a more powerful export action, or for later placement in another region. Placing lower-valued tiles also allows you more flexibility, as you can replace them later and gain the region bonus repeatedly in the process. You ultimately want to place your high-valued tiles to gain a stranglehold on multiple regions, of course, but don&#039;t discount the power of flooding a region with multiple smaller values which your opponents will have to waste time and resources on to dislodge.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
When gaining bonuses, both a rushing strategy (going 3 or 4 turns before consolidation) and a long-term strategy (5-6 turns) can work. Make sure you drop a 5x bonus on the spot for regional coverage--since you will want to have a toehold in all 4 regions, this is a guaranteed 20 points.&lt;/div&gt;</summary>
		<author><name>Nandblock</name></author>
	</entry>
	<entry>
		<id>https://gl.doc.boardgamearena.com/index.php?title=Tips_tashkalar&amp;diff=2223</id>
		<title>Tips tashkalar</title>
		<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="https://gl.doc.boardgamearena.com/index.php?title=Tips_tashkalar&amp;diff=2223"/>
		<updated>2017-01-31T03:20:46Z</updated>

		<summary type="html">&lt;p&gt;Nandblock: &lt;/p&gt;
&lt;hr /&gt;
&lt;div&gt;== High Form Strategy ==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;1) Board Management&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;Keep your piece-count down.&#039;&#039; If a piece of your own is not helping your position and you have a chance to destroy it, do so rather than destroying an enemy piece--this puts you rather than them closer to a flare. If you&#039;re ahead in the game and your piece count is high, consider discarding cards or summoning a being on top of your own piece (oversummoning) to avoid placing another piece on the board.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;Keep your pieces together.&#039;&#039; If your position is dispersed, those pieces will add to your piece-count, making it impossible to get a life-saving flare while being useless for summoning or claiming tasks.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;Place pieces on or around coloured squares by preference.&#039;&#039; Even if there&#039;s no coloured summoning/conquest task on the board, one will eventually pop up. (Caveat: do not casually leave pieces on red squares if you are playing against Highland and they haven&#039;t yet played Blood Shaman.)&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;Do not let your opponent set up camp far away from you.&#039;&#039; Make sure you are always able to destroy a piece or two of theirs.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;2) Hand Management&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;Play or discard cards rather than letting them go stale.&#039;&#039; Don&#039;t grow too attached to a card unless you&#039;re absolutely sure you need to use it soon to accomplish a task. If it&#039;s not helping you, get rid of it by summoning it, even if you can&#039;t trigger its effects, or discarding it. The smaller your deck, the more precise your endgame play will be, as you will know with certainty what you will draw; and if you cannot score 9 points, you want to be the person who triggers the endgame by running out of cards. -- By discarding you can also get rid of a flare that is hard to trigger, or Legends that are not useful.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;Anticipate key cards in your deck.&#039;&#039; Don&#039;t just set up existing patterns in your hand (though do that too!); if you know a useful card is in your deck, try to keep a few pieces on the board that will help you achieve that pattern. It might be the next card you draw. (E.g. if you have the Highland deck, try to maintain a few pieces at the corners of a green square in anticipation of Ritual Master, or a bow-shape for Warlord / Eagle Lord.) When you&#039;re just starting out, it is impossible to remember all the cards, but be aware of the most powerful and disruptive ones: Hypnotist and Bomb (North/South Empire); Everfrost Sentinel; Blood Shaman and Ritual Master (Highland); Forest Ancient (Sylvan); and Leviathan and Time Elemental (Legends).&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;Track the cards.&#039;&#039; If you are playing a turn-based game, use the Notes feature of BGA to keep track of both your cards and your opponent&#039;s.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;Learn the decks and Legendary Beings.&#039;&#039; To reiterate: as a beginner, &#039;&#039;do not worry about memorizing every single card!&#039;&#039; But eventually you will need to be able to recognize patterns that your opponent is trying to form, and know what&#039;s coming up in your own deck that might be useful.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;3) Flares&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;Be wary of flares.&#039;&#039; A typical beginner&#039;s mistake iis to assume that accumulating more pieces than your opponent, and destroying many of your opponent&#039;s pieces, is a good idea. But &#039;&#039;&#039;this approach will usually lose the game,&#039;&#039;&#039; because it gives an opponent the opportunity to flare every turn. Extra actions are extremely valuable in Tash-Kalar--often they are the deciding factor in claiming a task or totally reshaping the board--so don&#039;t let your opponent get flares easily. If you are ahead in piece-count, try to stay ahead by a maximum of 2 heroic pieces and 3 pieces in total--this guarantees that only one flare (the 2/5 one) is playable. If you must exceed that limit, avoid triggering top and bottom flares at once. (The upper number on flares ranges from 2 to 5; the lower number from 4 to 6.)&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;4) Tasks&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;Prioritize 1- and 2-point tasks, not 3-pointers and Legends.&#039;&#039; In particular, Side Chain and Corner Chain are very difficult to achieve without an exorbitant cost. Legends are good but since the 1 point they give is no better than an easily achievable 1-point task, and can be taken away from you, they should not be a major priority unless they help accomplish a task. You need to claim very easy tasks before your opponent does, as they stack up quickly--in particular, never leave End of Legends, Heroic Destruction or Rainbow Domination unclaimed for long, as they are the easiest 2-point tasks to claim.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;5) Opening Moves&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
In general (though this advice is dependent on your initial draw and the first tasks available), place your first pieces near the centre but somewhat off-centre, and in the vicinity of coloured squares. This maximizes control of the board, positional flexibility, and ability to engage in direct conflict or move away from it. If your hand is full of 2- and 3-piece patterns, being right next to your opponent&#039;s pieces is good, as you will be able to destroy their pieces easily. If it&#039;s full of 4- and 5-piece patterns, keep more distance at first.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;6) Patience&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Tash-Kalar games tend to have a dramatic mid-game &amp;quot;bounce&amp;quot;: it is very hard to hang on to an early lead, because the player in the lead will have typically grabbed all the tasks they can easily grab, used their best cards, and be on the verge of giving up flares. If you are behind, even by a substantial number of points, do not give in easily, especially since you will have a more precise sense of what&#039;s in your deck and your opponent&#039;s and can plan accordingly. If you are ahead, be wary: start reducing your piece-count, and if you have a strong lead, summon (or discard) Beings as much as possible to hasten the endgame.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== Cards ==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Here is a full list of all cards in Tash-Kalar&#039;s BGA implementation (numbers denote the pieces in the pattern):&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;IMPERIAL&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
* 2: Messenger, Swordmaster, Bomb&lt;br /&gt;
* 3: Chronicler, Herald, High Priestess, Summoner, Cannon, Assassin&lt;br /&gt;
* 4: Gryphon Rider, Knight, Master of Intrigue, Cavalry Captain, Infantry Captain, Champion, Time Mage, Gun Tower, Hypnotist&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;SYLVAN&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
* 2: Sapling, Kiskin Farseeders, Forest Wardens&lt;br /&gt;
* 3: Naiad, Charging Buck, Kiskin Spirit, Dryad, Forest Mystic, Sylvan Princess, Woodland Druid&lt;br /&gt;
* 4: Unicorn, Kiskin Boughrunner, Kiskin Leafsplitter, Centaur Spearman, Forest Ancient, Centaur Chieftain, Sylvan Queen, Tree Shepherd&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;HIGHLAND&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
* 2: Ritual Keeper, Wild Eagle, Clan Axeman&lt;br /&gt;
* 3: Dire Wolf, Clan Healer, Clan Guardian, Ritual Master, Hungry Bear&lt;br /&gt;
* 4: Wolf Rider, Mountain Troll, Hill Giant, Eagle Lord, War Summoner, War Drummer, Legend Slayer, Blood Shaman, Werewolf&lt;br /&gt;
* 5: Warlord&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;EVERFROST&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
* 2: Snow Fox, Crystal Mirror, Crystal Grower&lt;br /&gt;
* 3: Ice Princess, Royal Reindeer, Frostweave Illusionist, Frostweave Summoner, Frost Imp, Frozen Chest&lt;br /&gt;
* 4: Winter Whisperer, Glacier Giant, Ice Queen, Ice Wyvern, Everfrost Sentinel, Deathbringer, War Sled, Polar Bear, Snow Monster&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;LEGENDS&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
* Time Elemental, Earth Elemental, Fire Elemental, Storm Elemental, Leviathan, Hell Bull, Angel of Death, Two-Headed Dragon, Fire Dragon, Titan, Bone Catapult&lt;/div&gt;</summary>
		<author><name>Nandblock</name></author>
	</entry>
	<entry>
		<id>https://gl.doc.boardgamearena.com/index.php?title=Tips_tashkalar&amp;diff=2201</id>
		<title>Tips tashkalar</title>
		<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="https://gl.doc.boardgamearena.com/index.php?title=Tips_tashkalar&amp;diff=2201"/>
		<updated>2017-01-23T06:37:15Z</updated>

		<summary type="html">&lt;p&gt;Nandblock: /* High Form Strategy */&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;hr /&gt;
&lt;div&gt;== High Form Strategy ==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;1) Board Management&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;Keep your piece-count down.&#039;&#039; If a piece of your own is not helping your position and you have a chance to destroy it, do so rather than destroying an enemy piece--this puts you rather than them closer to a flare. If you&#039;re ahead in the game and your piece count is high, consider discarding cards or summoning a being on top of your own piece (oversummoning) to avoid placing another piece on the board.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;Keep your pieces together.&#039;&#039; If your position is dispersed, those pieces will add to your piece-count, making it impossible to get a life-saving flare while being useless for summoning or claiming tasks.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;Place pieces on or around coloured squares by preference.&#039;&#039; Even if there&#039;s no coloured summoning/conquest task on the board, one will eventually pop up. (Caveat: do not casually leave pieces on red squares if you are playing against Highland and they haven&#039;t yet played Blood Shaman.)&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;Do not let your opponent set up camp far away from you.&#039;&#039; Make sure you are always able to destroy a piece or two of theirs.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;2) Hand Management&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;Play or discard cards rather than letting them go stale.&#039;&#039; Don&#039;t grow too attached to a card unless you&#039;re absolutely sure you need to use it soon to accomplish a task. If it&#039;s not helping you, get rid of it by summoning it, even if you can&#039;t trigger its effects, or discarding it. The smaller your deck, the more precise your endgame play will be, as you will know with certainty what you will draw; and if you cannot score 9 points, you want to be the person who triggers the endgame by running out of cards. -- By discarding you can also get rid of a flare that is hard to trigger, or Legends that are not useful.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;Anticipate key cards in your deck.&#039;&#039; Don&#039;t just set up existing patterns in your hand (though do that too!); if you know a useful card is in your deck, try to keep a few pieces on the board that will help you achieve that pattern. It might be the next card you draw. (E.g. if you have the Highland deck, try to maintain a few pieces at the corners of a green square in anticipation of Ritual Master, or a bow-shape for Warlord / Eagle Lord.) When you&#039;re just starting out, it is impossible to remember all the cards, but be aware of the most powerful and disruptive ones: Hypnotist and Bomb (North/South Empire); Everfrost Sentinel; Blood Shaman and Ritual Master (Highland); Forest Ancient (Sylvan); and Leviathan and Time Elemental (Legends).&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;Track the cards.&#039;&#039; If you are playing a turn-based game, use the Notes feature of BGA to keep track of both your cards and your opponent&#039;s.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;Learn the decks and Legendary Beings.&#039;&#039; To reiterate: as a beginner, &#039;&#039;do not worry about memorizing every single card!&#039;&#039; But eventually you will need to be able to recognize patterns that your opponent is trying to form, and know what&#039;s coming up in your own deck that might be useful.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;3) Flares&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;Be wary of flares.&#039;&#039; A typical beginner&#039;s mistake iis to assume that accumulating more pieces than your opponent, and destroying many of your opponent&#039;s pieces, is a good idea. But &#039;&#039;&#039;this approach will usually lose the game,&#039;&#039;&#039; because it gives an opponent the opportunity to flare every turn. Extra actions are extremely valuable in Tash-Kalar--often they are the deciding factor in claiming a task or totally reshaping the board--so don&#039;t let your opponent get flares easily. If you are ahead in piece-count, try to stay ahead by a maximum of 2 heroic pieces and 3 pieces in total--this guarantees that only one flare (the 2/5 one) is playable. If you must exceed that limit, avoid triggering top and bottom flares at once. (The upper number on flares ranges from 2 to 5; the lower number from 4 to 6.)&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;4) Tasks&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;Prioritize 1- and 2-point tasks, not 3-pointers and Legends.&#039;&#039; In particular, Side Chain and Corner Chain are very difficult to achieve without an exorbitant cost. Legends are good but since the 1 point they give is no better than an easily achievable 1-point task, and can be taken away from you, they should not be a major priority unless they help accomplish a task. You need to claim very easy tasks before your opponent does, as they stack up quickly--in particular, never leave End of Legends, Heroic Destruction or Rainbow Domination unclaimed for long, as they are the easiest 2-point tasks to claim.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;5) Opening Moves&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
In general (though this advice is dependent on your initial draw and the first tasks available), place your first pieces near the centre but somewhat off-centre, and in the vicinity of coloured squares. This maximizes control of the board, positional flexibility, and ability to engage in direct conflict or move away from it. If your hand is full of 2- and 3-piece patterns, being right next to your opponent&#039;s pieces is good, as you will be able to destroy their pieces easily. If it&#039;s full of 4- and 5-piece patterns, keep more distance at first.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;6) Patience&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Tash-Kalar games tend to have a dramatic mid-game &amp;quot;bounce&amp;quot;: it is very hard to hang on to an early lead, because the player in the lead will have typically grabbed all the tasks they can easily grab, used their best cards, and be on the verge of giving up flares. If you are behind, even by a substantial number of points, do not give in easily, especially since you will have a more precise sense of what&#039;s in your deck and your opponent&#039;s and can plan accordingly. If you are ahead, be wary: start reducing your piece-count, and if you have a strong lead, summon (or discard) Beings as much as possible to hasten the endgame.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== Cards ==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Here is a full list of all cards in Tash-Kalar&#039;s BGA implementation (numbers denote the pieces in the pattern):&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
IMPERIAL&lt;br /&gt;
* 2: Messenger, Swordmaster, Bomb&lt;br /&gt;
* 3: Chronicler, Herald, High Priestess, Summoner, Cannon, Assassin&lt;br /&gt;
* 4: Gryphon Rider, Knight, Master of Intrigue, Cavalry Captain, Infantry Captain, Champion, Time Mage, Gun Tower, Hypnotist&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
SYLVAN&lt;br /&gt;
* 2: Sapling, Kiskin Farseeders, Forest Wardens&lt;br /&gt;
* 3: Naiad, Charging Buck, Kiskin Spirit, Dryad, Forest Mystic, Sylvan Princess, Woodland Druid&lt;br /&gt;
* 4: Unicorn, Kiskin Boughrunner, Kiskin Leafsplitter, Centaur Spearman, Forest Ancient, Centaur Chieftain, Sylvan Queen, Tree Shepherd&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
HIGHLAND&lt;br /&gt;
* 2: Ritual Keeper, Wild Eagle, Clan Axeman&lt;br /&gt;
* 3: Dire Wolf, Clan Healer, Clan Guardian, Ritual Master, Hungry Bear&lt;br /&gt;
* 4: Wolf Rider, Mountain Troll, Hill Giant, Eagle Lord, War Summoner, War Drummer, Legend Slayer, Blood Shaman, Werewolf&lt;br /&gt;
* 5: Warlord&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
EVERFROST&lt;br /&gt;
* 2: Snow Fox, Crystal Mirror, Crystal Grower&lt;br /&gt;
* 3: Ice Princess, Royal Reindeer, Frostweave Illusionist, Frostweave Summoner, Frost Imp, Frozen Chest&lt;br /&gt;
* 4: Winter Whisperer, Glacier Giant, Ice Queen, Ice Wyvern, Everfrost Sentinel, Deathbringer, War Sled, Polar Bear, Snow Monster&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
LEGENDS&lt;br /&gt;
* Time Elemental, Earth Elemental, Fire Elemental, Storm Elemental, Leviathan, Hell Bull, Angel of Death, Two-Headed Dragon, Fire Dragon, Titan, Bone Catapult&lt;/div&gt;</summary>
		<author><name>Nandblock</name></author>
	</entry>
	<entry>
		<id>https://gl.doc.boardgamearena.com/index.php?title=Tips_tashkalar&amp;diff=2200</id>
		<title>Tips tashkalar</title>
		<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="https://gl.doc.boardgamearena.com/index.php?title=Tips_tashkalar&amp;diff=2200"/>
		<updated>2017-01-23T06:35:58Z</updated>

		<summary type="html">&lt;p&gt;Nandblock: /* High Form Strategy */&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;hr /&gt;
&lt;div&gt;== High Form Strategy ==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;1) Board Management&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;Keep your piece-count down.&#039;&#039; If a piece of your own is not helping your position and you have a chance to destroy it, do so rather than destroying an enemy piece--this puts you rather than them closer to a flare. If you&#039;re ahead in the game and your piece count is high, consider discarding cards or summoning a being on top of your own piece (oversummoning) to avoid placing another piece on the board.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;Keep your pieces together.&#039;&#039; If your position is dispersed, those pieces will add to your piece-count, making it impossible to get a life-saving flare while being useless for summoning or claiming tasks.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;Place pieces on or around coloured squares by preference.&#039;&#039; Even if there&#039;s no coloured summoning/conquest task on the board, one will eventually pop up. (Caveat: do not casually leave pieces on red squares if you are playing against Highland and they haven&#039;t yet played Blood Shaman.)&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;Do not let your opponent set up camp far away from you.&#039;&#039; Make sure you are always able to destroy a piece or two of theirs.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;2) Hand Management&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;Play or discard cards rather than letting them go stale.&#039;&#039; Don&#039;t grow too attached to a card unless you&#039;re absolutely sure you need to use it soon to accomplish a task. If it&#039;s not helping you, get rid of it by summoning it, even if you can&#039;t trigger its effects, or discarding it. The smaller your deck, the more precise your endgame play will be, as you will know with certainty what you will draw; and if you cannot score 9 points, you want to be the person who triggers the endgame by running out of cards. -- By discarding you can also get rid of a flare that is hard to trigger, or Legends that are not useful.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;Anticipate key cards in your deck.&#039;&#039; Don&#039;t just set up existing patterns in your hand (though do that too!); if you know a useful card is in your deck, try to keep a few pieces on the board that will help you achieve that pattern. It might be the next card you draw. (E.g. if you have the Highland deck, try to maintain a few pieces at the corners of a green square in anticipation of Ritual Master, or a bow-shape for Warlord / Eagle Lord.) When you&#039;re just starting out, it is impossible to remember all the cards, but be aware of the most powerful and disruptive ones: Hypnotist and Bomb (North/South Empire); Everfrost Sentinel; Blood Shaman and Ritual Master (Highland); Forest Ancient (Sylvan); and Leviathan and Time Elemental (Legends).&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;Track the cards.&#039;&#039; If you are playing a turn-based game, use the Notes feature of BGA to keep track of both your cards and your opponent&#039;s.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;Learn the decks and Legendary Beings.&#039;&#039; To reiterate: as a beginner, &#039;&#039;do not worry about memorizing every single card!&#039;&#039; But eventually you will need to be able to recognize patterns that your opponent is trying to form, and know what&#039;s coming up in your own deck that might be useful.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;3) Flares&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;Be wary of flares.&#039;&#039; A typical beginner&#039;s mistake iis to assume that accumulating more pieces than your opponent, and destroying many of your opponent&#039;s pieces, is a good idea. But &#039;&#039;&#039;this approach will usually lose the game,&#039;&#039;&#039; because it gives an opponent the opportunity to flare every turn. Extra actions are extremely valuable in Tash-Kalar--often they are the deciding factor in claiming a task or totally reshaping the board--so don&#039;t let your opponent get flares easily. If you are ahead in piece-count, try to stay ahead by a maximum of 2 heroic pieces and 3 pieces in total--this guarantees that only one flare (the 2/5 one) is playable. If you must exceed that limit, avoid triggering top and bottom flares at once. (The upper number on flares ranges from 2 to 5; the lower number from 4 to 6.)&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;4) Tasks&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;Prioritize 1- and 2-point tasks, not 3-pointers and Legends.&#039;&#039; In particular, Side Chain and Corner Chain are very difficult to achieve without an exorbitant cost. Legends are good but since the 1 point they give is no better than an easily achievable 1-point task, and can be taken away from you, they should not be a major priority unless they help accomplish a task. You need to claim very easy tasks before your opponent does, as they stack up quickly--in particular, never leave End of Legends, Heroic Destruction or Rainbow Domination unclaimed for long, as they are the easiest 2-point tasks to claim.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;5) Opening Moves&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
In general (though this advice is dependent on your initial draw and the first tasks available), place your first pieces near the centre but somewhat off-centre, and in the vicinity of coloured squares. This maximizes control of the board, positional flexibility, and ability to engage in direct conflict or move away from it. If your hand is full of 2- and 3-piece patterns, being right next to your opponent&#039;s pieces is good, as you will be able to destroy their pieces easily. If it&#039;s full of 4- and 5-piece patterns, keep more distance at first.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;6) Patience&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Tash-Kalar games tend to have a dramatic mid-game &amp;quot;bounce&amp;quot;: it is very hard to hang on to an early lead, because the player in the lead will have typically grabbed all the tasks they can easily grab, used their best cards, and be on the verge of giving up flares. If you are behind, even by a substantial number of points, do not give in easily, especially since you will have a more precise sense of what&#039;s in your deck and your opponent&#039;s and can plan accordingly. If you are ahead, be wary: start reducing your piece-count, and if you have a strong lead, try to summon (or discard) Beings as much as possible to hasten the endgame.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== Cards ==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Here is a full list of all cards in Tash-Kalar&#039;s BGA implementation (numbers denote the pieces in the pattern):&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
IMPERIAL&lt;br /&gt;
* 2: Messenger, Swordmaster, Bomb&lt;br /&gt;
* 3: Chronicler, Herald, High Priestess, Summoner, Cannon, Assassin&lt;br /&gt;
* 4: Gryphon Rider, Knight, Master of Intrigue, Cavalry Captain, Infantry Captain, Champion, Time Mage, Gun Tower, Hypnotist&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
SYLVAN&lt;br /&gt;
* 2: Sapling, Kiskin Farseeders, Forest Wardens&lt;br /&gt;
* 3: Naiad, Charging Buck, Kiskin Spirit, Dryad, Forest Mystic, Sylvan Princess, Woodland Druid&lt;br /&gt;
* 4: Unicorn, Kiskin Boughrunner, Kiskin Leafsplitter, Centaur Spearman, Forest Ancient, Centaur Chieftain, Sylvan Queen, Tree Shepherd&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
HIGHLAND&lt;br /&gt;
* 2: Ritual Keeper, Wild Eagle, Clan Axeman&lt;br /&gt;
* 3: Dire Wolf, Clan Healer, Clan Guardian, Ritual Master, Hungry Bear&lt;br /&gt;
* 4: Wolf Rider, Mountain Troll, Hill Giant, Eagle Lord, War Summoner, War Drummer, Legend Slayer, Blood Shaman, Werewolf&lt;br /&gt;
* 5: Warlord&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
EVERFROST&lt;br /&gt;
* 2: Snow Fox, Crystal Mirror, Crystal Grower&lt;br /&gt;
* 3: Ice Princess, Royal Reindeer, Frostweave Illusionist, Frostweave Summoner, Frost Imp, Frozen Chest&lt;br /&gt;
* 4: Winter Whisperer, Glacier Giant, Ice Queen, Ice Wyvern, Everfrost Sentinel, Deathbringer, War Sled, Polar Bear, Snow Monster&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
LEGENDS&lt;br /&gt;
* Time Elemental, Earth Elemental, Fire Elemental, Storm Elemental, Leviathan, Hell Bull, Angel of Death, Two-Headed Dragon, Fire Dragon, Titan, Bone Catapult&lt;/div&gt;</summary>
		<author><name>Nandblock</name></author>
	</entry>
	<entry>
		<id>https://gl.doc.boardgamearena.com/index.php?title=Tips_madeira&amp;diff=2177</id>
		<title>Tips madeira</title>
		<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="https://gl.doc.boardgamearena.com/index.php?title=Tips_madeira&amp;diff=2177"/>
		<updated>2017-01-10T18:24:30Z</updated>

		<summary type="html">&lt;p&gt;Nandblock: /* Crown Requests */&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;hr /&gt;
&lt;div&gt;== Worker Placement ==&lt;br /&gt;
You need at least one worker in Regions 2 and 3 most of the time, as the building actions here are vital to winning; and in the forest. Region 1 is less important, since it has only one building to activate, unless your strategy depends heavily on colonists (in which case, move them there as soon as possible to maximize the number of rounds they can produce).&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;Region 1:&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
:&#039;&#039;Alfândega (Customs)&#039;&#039;: If you have workers in Region 1 this building action can be used to earn an extra PP for each of the player&#039;s ships in a particular colony, in addition to the resources gained during Phase D for each colonist. This strategy works well with the Expeditions Crown Request.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;Region 2:&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
:&#039;&#039;Moinho (Mill)&#039;&#039;: A reliable end-of-round source of 5 bread, if you have 3 workers in this region.&lt;br /&gt;
:&#039;&#039;Capitania (Captaincy)&#039;&#039;: The main way to move workers into the city. If you have 3 workers in the region, you can earn an easy 15 points over 5 rounds.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;Region 3:&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
:&#039;&#039;Casa da Coroa (Guild Palace)&#039;&#039;: Important once you have accumulated guild favours.&lt;br /&gt;
:&#039;&#039;Fortaleza (Watch Tower)&#039;&#039;: The most powerful building on the board; it is a rare round that you will not want to place a guild die here. Placing one or two workers in the City Watch accomplishes 3 things simultaneously: discarding pirates, enabling you to use pirate die, and scoring 4 VPs if you have a majority in the Honor phase.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== Getting and Losing Pirates ==&lt;br /&gt;
Plan to have no pirates at game end: otherwise, the potential 16-VP swing may cost you the game. To play optimally, however, you will need to take pirates in order to conserve money, bread or wood, then discard them later. That said, try not to leave yourself with more than 6 pirates at the end of a round.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The main way of discarding pirates is placing workers in the City Watch, via Fortaleza or other means (Scout, the 3rd passing favour, the King&#039;s favour). All these actions discard 3 pirates (or 6 if you activate Fortaleza&#039;s stronger ability). Therefore, especially as you approach the endgame, make sure you have an even multiple of 3 pirates. (Constable allows you to discard half your pirates; it is the only exception to the rule of 3.)&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Putting a guild die on Fortaleza (if you have workers in Region 3) lets you skip paying for an earlier building action, then discard the resulting pirates at Fortaleza: a very efficient way to conserve money.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== Bread ==&lt;br /&gt;
Never start a round without bread, as you need it to modify dice. Take a few pirates if necessary to hang on to some bread.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== The Windmill ==&lt;br /&gt;
Do not neglect to use the Windmill to trade goods, gain bread, etc. Whenever you can, especially early in the game, move up the Windmill to conserve bread. (The Miller guild favour is especially useful for this.)&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== Passing ==&lt;br /&gt;
More actions is not necessarily better: try to pass early, once you&#039;ve completed all actions you absolutely must do. Unless you urgently need an action lower on the passing column, grab as high a spot as possible. Consider taking the 2 reals to guarantee first pick of dice, request, and guild to unflip.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== Crown Requests ==&lt;br /&gt;
When selecting crown requests, consider whether they work well together, what round you will fulfill them in, and what requests will be left unclaimed for future rounds. In general you want to avoid ending up with multiple copies of the same request in Round 5, as the 2nd copy will usually score little or nothing.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
: &#039;&#039;Urbanization&#039;&#039; (city workers) is the most useful request, in Round 1 especially, as you are guaranteed to score some points with no effort, and scoring 12 or 15  is relatively easy.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
: &#039;&#039;Wealth of the Nations&#039;&#039; (money) is poor in Rounds 1 and 3, but better in Round 5; money is too useful before then to waste on it. At game end it effectively nets only 12 points maximum (since 15 reals = 3 points), the lowest maximum of all the requests.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
: &#039;&#039;Influence of the Guilds&#039;&#039; can yield 15 or 20 points in Rounds 3 and 5, the highest potential return on a single request. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
: &#039;&#039;Market Routes&#039;&#039; and &#039;&#039;Expeditions&#039;&#039; both score up to 18 points. But avoid having to fulfill them simultaneously in Round 3 or 5; the wood/money upkeep on 6 ships simultaneously in play is onerous.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
It is helpful to have complementary requests in hand: Market Routes + Wealth of the Nations (trade routes get you money); Influence of the Guilds + Urbanization (claiming Guild favours clears space for urbanization).&lt;/div&gt;</summary>
		<author><name>Nandblock</name></author>
	</entry>
	<entry>
		<id>https://gl.doc.boardgamearena.com/index.php?title=Tips_madeira&amp;diff=2176</id>
		<title>Tips madeira</title>
		<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="https://gl.doc.boardgamearena.com/index.php?title=Tips_madeira&amp;diff=2176"/>
		<updated>2017-01-08T21:53:09Z</updated>

		<summary type="html">&lt;p&gt;Nandblock: /* Worker Placement */&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;hr /&gt;
&lt;div&gt;== Worker Placement ==&lt;br /&gt;
You need at least one worker in Regions 2 and 3 most of the time, as the building actions here are vital to winning; and in the forest. Region 1 is less important, since it has only one building to activate, unless your strategy depends heavily on colonists (in which case, move them there as soon as possible to maximize the number of rounds they can produce).&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;Region 1:&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
:&#039;&#039;Alfândega (Customs)&#039;&#039;: If you have workers in Region 1 this building action can be used to earn an extra PP for each of the player&#039;s ships in a particular colony, in addition to the resources gained during Phase D for each colonist. This strategy works well with the Expeditions Crown Request.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;Region 2:&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
:&#039;&#039;Moinho (Mill)&#039;&#039;: A reliable end-of-round source of 5 bread, if you have 3 workers in this region.&lt;br /&gt;
:&#039;&#039;Capitania (Captaincy)&#039;&#039;: The main way to move workers into the city. If you have 3 workers in the region, you can earn an easy 15 points over 5 rounds.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;Region 3:&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
:&#039;&#039;Casa da Coroa (Guild Palace)&#039;&#039;: Important once you have accumulated guild favours.&lt;br /&gt;
:&#039;&#039;Fortaleza (Watch Tower)&#039;&#039;: The most powerful building on the board; it is a rare round that you will not want to place a guild die here. Placing one or two workers in the City Watch accomplishes 3 things simultaneously: discarding pirates, enabling you to use pirate die, and scoring 4 VPs if you have a majority in the Honor phase.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== Getting and Losing Pirates ==&lt;br /&gt;
Plan to have no pirates at game end: otherwise, the potential 16-VP swing may cost you the game. To play optimally, however, you will need to take pirates in order to conserve money, bread or wood, then discard them later. That said, try not to leave yourself with more than 6 pirates at the end of a round.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The main way of discarding pirates is placing workers in the City Watch, via Fortaleza or other means (Scout, the 3rd passing favour, the King&#039;s favour). All these actions discard 3 pirates (or 6 if you activate Fortaleza&#039;s stronger ability). Therefore, especially as you approach the endgame, make sure you have an even multiple of 3 pirates. (Constable allows you to discard half your pirates; it is the only exception to the rule of 3.)&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Putting a guild die on Fortaleza (if you have workers in Region 3) lets you skip paying for an earlier building action, then discard the resulting pirates at Fortaleza: a very efficient way to conserve money.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== Bread ==&lt;br /&gt;
Never start a round without bread, as you need it to modify dice. Take a few pirates if necessary to hang on to some bread.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== The Windmill ==&lt;br /&gt;
Do not neglect to use the Windmill to trade goods, gain bread, etc. Whenever you can, especially early in the game, move up the Windmill to conserve bread. (The Miller guild favour is especially useful for this.)&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== Passing ==&lt;br /&gt;
More actions is not necessarily better: try to pass early, once you&#039;ve completed all actions you absolutely must do. Unless you urgently need an action lower on the passing column, grab as high a spot as possible. Consider taking the 2 reals to guarantee first pick of dice, request, and guild to unflip.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== Crown Requests ==&lt;br /&gt;
When selecting crown requests, consider whether they work well together, what round you will fulfill them in, and what requests will be left unclaimed for future rounds. Do not get stuck with multiple copies of the same request in Round 5, as the 2nd copy will score little or nothing.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
: &#039;&#039;Urbanization&#039;&#039; (city workers) is the most useful request, in Round 1 especially, as you are guaranteed to score some points with no effort, and scoring 12 or 15  is relatively easy.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
: &#039;&#039;Wealth of the Nations&#039;&#039; (money) is poor in Rounds 1 and 3, but better in Round 5; money is too useful before then to waste on it. At game end it effectively nets only 12 points maximum (since 15 reals = 3 points), the lowest maximum of all the requests.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
: &#039;&#039;Influence of the Guilds&#039;&#039; can yield 15 or 20 points in Rounds 3 and 5, the highest potential return on a single request. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
: &#039;&#039;Market Routes&#039;&#039; and &#039;&#039;Expeditions&#039;&#039; both score up to 18 points. But avoid having to fulfill them simultaneously in Round 3 or 5; the wood/money upkeep on 6 ships simultaneously in play is onerous.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
It is helpful to have complementary requests in hand: Market Routes + Wealth of the Nations (trade routes get you money); Influence of the Guilds + Urbanization (claiming Guild favours clears space for urbanization).&lt;/div&gt;</summary>
		<author><name>Nandblock</name></author>
	</entry>
	<entry>
		<id>https://gl.doc.boardgamearena.com/index.php?title=Tips_madeira&amp;diff=2145</id>
		<title>Tips madeira</title>
		<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="https://gl.doc.boardgamearena.com/index.php?title=Tips_madeira&amp;diff=2145"/>
		<updated>2016-12-28T03:37:22Z</updated>

		<summary type="html">&lt;p&gt;Nandblock: &lt;/p&gt;
&lt;hr /&gt;
&lt;div&gt;== Worker Placement ==&lt;br /&gt;
You need at least one worker in Regions 2 and 3 most of the time, as the building actions here are vital to winning; and in the forest. Region 1 is less important, since it has only one building to activate, unless your strategy depends heavily on colonists (in which case, move them there as soon as possible to maximize the number of rounds they can produce).&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;Region 2:&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
:&#039;&#039;Moinho&#039;&#039;: A reliable end-of-round source of 5 bread, if you have 3 workers in this region.&lt;br /&gt;
:&#039;&#039;Capitania&#039;&#039;: The main way to move workers into the city. If you have 3 workers in the region, you can earn an easy 15 points over 5 rounds.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;Region 3:&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
:&#039;&#039;Casa da Coroa&#039;&#039;: Important once you have accumulated guild favours.&lt;br /&gt;
:&#039;&#039;Fortaleza&#039;&#039;: The most powerful building on the board; it is a rare round that you will not want to place a guild die here. Placing one or two workers in the City Watch accomplishes 3 things simultaneously: discarding pirates, enabling you to use pirate die, and scoring 4 VPs if you have a majority in the Honor phase. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== Getting and Losing Pirates ==&lt;br /&gt;
Plan to have no pirates at game end: otherwise, the potential 16-VP swing may cost you the game. To play optimally, however, you will need to take pirates in order to conserve money, bread or wood, then discard them later. That said, try not to leave yourself with more than 6 pirates at the end of a round.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The main way of discarding pirates is placing workers in the City Watch, via Fortaleza or other means (Scout, the 3rd passing favour, the King&#039;s favour). All these actions discard 3 pirates (or 6 if you activate Fortaleza&#039;s stronger ability). Therefore, especially as you approach the endgame, make sure you have an even multiple of 3 pirates. (Constable allows you to discard half your pirates; it is the only exception to the rule of 3.)&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Putting a guild die on Fortaleza (if you have workers in Region 3) lets you skip paying for an earlier building action, then discard the resulting pirates at Fortaleza: a very efficient way to conserve money.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== Bread ==&lt;br /&gt;
Never start a round without bread, as you need it to modify dice. Take a few pirates if necessary to hang on to some bread.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== The Windmill ==&lt;br /&gt;
Do not neglect to use the Windmill to trade goods, gain bread, etc. Whenever you can, especially early in the game, move up the Windmill to conserve bread. (The Miller guild favour is especially useful for this.)&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== Passing ==&lt;br /&gt;
More actions is not necessarily better: try to pass early, once you&#039;ve completed all actions you absolutely must do. Unless you urgently need an action lower on the passing column, grab as high a spot as possible. Consider taking the 2 reals to guarantee first pick of dice, request, and guild to unflip.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== Crown Requests ==&lt;br /&gt;
When selecting crown requests, consider whether they work well together, what round you will fulfill them in, and what requests will be left unclaimed for future rounds. Do not get stuck with multiple copies of the same request in Round 5, as the 2nd copy will score little or nothing.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
: &#039;&#039;Urbanization&#039;&#039; (city workers) is the most useful request, in Round 1 especially, as you are guaranteed to score some points with no effort, and scoring 12 or 15  is relatively easy.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
: &#039;&#039;Wealth of the Nations&#039;&#039; (money) is poor in Rounds 1 and 3, but better in Round 5; money is too useful before then to waste on it. At game end it effectively nets only 12 points maximum (since 15 reals = 3 points), the lowest maximum of all the requests.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
: &#039;&#039;Influence of the Guilds&#039;&#039; can yield 15 or 20 points in Rounds 3 and 5, the highest potential return on a single request. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
: &#039;&#039;Market Routes&#039;&#039; and &#039;&#039;Expeditions&#039;&#039; both score up to 18 points. But avoid having to fulfill them simultaneously in Round 3 or 5; the wood/money upkeep on 6 ships simultaneously in play is onerous.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
It is helpful to have complementary requests in hand: Market Routes + Wealth of the Nations (trade routes get you money); Influence of the Guilds + Urbanization (claiming Guild favours clears space for urbanization).&lt;/div&gt;</summary>
		<author><name>Nandblock</name></author>
	</entry>
	<entry>
		<id>https://gl.doc.boardgamearena.com/index.php?title=Tips_madeira&amp;diff=2144</id>
		<title>Tips madeira</title>
		<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="https://gl.doc.boardgamearena.com/index.php?title=Tips_madeira&amp;diff=2144"/>
		<updated>2016-12-28T03:05:45Z</updated>

		<summary type="html">&lt;p&gt;Nandblock: /* Passing */&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;hr /&gt;
&lt;div&gt;== Worker Placement ==&lt;br /&gt;
You will need at least one worker in Regions 2 and 3 most of the time, as the building actions here are vital to winning. And you will of course also need a worker in the forest. Ideally you want one worker in every region, so that all character, harvest and building actions can be effectively triggered, but Region 1 is less important, given that it has only one building to activate, unless your strategy depends heavily on workers in the colonies (in which case, move them there as soon as possible to maximize the number of turns they will produce).&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Region 2:&lt;br /&gt;
:&#039;&#039;Moinho&#039;&#039;: If you have 3 workers in this region you get 5 bread, just before you need to feed your workers.&lt;br /&gt;
:&#039;&#039;Capitania&#039;&#039;: The main way to move workers into the city. If you have 3 workers in the region over 5 turns you can earn an easy 15 points, also (3 points bonus x 5 turns).&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Region 3:&lt;br /&gt;
:&#039;&#039;Casa da Coroa&#039;&#039;: Important once you have accumulated guild favours.&lt;br /&gt;
:&#039;&#039;Fortaleza&#039;&#039;: Places one or two workers in the City Watch: this accomplishes 3 things simultaneously so is the most powerful spot on the board (discards 3 or 6 pirates, gives you the potential to earn 4 points or block someone else from earning 4 points in the Honor phase, and sets you up next turn to use pirate dice for extra actions). &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== Getting and Losing Pirates ==&lt;br /&gt;
Try to avoid having any pirates at game end: in a 2-player game in particular, the 8- or 16-point swing may cost you the game. To play optimally, however, you frequently need to take pirates in order to conserve money, bread or wood, then discard them later. That said, try not to leave yourself with more than 6 pirates at the end of a round.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The main way of discarding pirates is placing workers in the City Watch, via the Fortaleza building action or other means (Scout, the 3rd passing favour, the King&#039;s favour). All of these actions will discard 3 pirates (or 6 if you activate Fortaleza&#039;s stronger ability). And when you acquire pirates from not paying for building actions, on average you will receive 3 (1 + the result of rolling one die). Therefore, as you approach the endgame, make sure you have an even multiple of 3 pirates.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
(Constable allows you to discard half your pirates; it is the only exception to the rule of 3.)&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
If you have a worker in Region 3, putting a guild die on Fortaleza means you can skip paying for earlier building actions, and then discard the resulting pirates at Fortaleza. This is a good way to conserve money if there is a building action you don&#039;t wish to use.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== Bread ==&lt;br /&gt;
Never start a round with no bread, as you will need it to modify dice. It is usually preferable to take a few pirates and hang on to a little bread.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== The Windmill ==&lt;br /&gt;
Do not neglect to use it to trade goods, gain bread, etc., if this allows you to accomplish an optimal move. Whenever you have a chance, especially early in the game, move up the windmill to save on bread later. (The Miller guild favour is especially useful for this.)&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== Passing ==&lt;br /&gt;
More actions is not necessarily better: try to pass early, once you&#039;ve completed all actions you absolutely &#039;&#039;have&#039;&#039; to do, and unless you urgently need an action lower on the passing column, grab a spot as high up as possible. Consider taking the 2 reals to guarantee first pick of dice, request, and guild to unflip.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== Crown Requests ==&lt;br /&gt;
When selecting crown requests, consider whether they work well together, what round you will fulfill them in, and what requests will be left unclaimed for future rounds. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
It is vital to avoid getting stuck with multiple copies of the same request in Round 5, as the 2nd copy will score little or nothing.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
: &#039;&#039;Urbanization&#039;&#039; (city workers) is the most useful request, in Round 1 especially, as you are guaranteed to score some points from it with no effort, and scoring 12 or 15 points is relatively easy against unwary opponents.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
: &#039;&#039;Wealth of the Nations&#039;&#039; (money) request is poor in Rounds 1 and 3, but better in Round 5; money is too useful before then to waste on it. At game end it effectively scores only a maximum 12 points (as 15 coins would be worth 3 VP at game end).&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
: &#039;&#039;Influence of the Guilds&#039;&#039; is least valuable in Round 1, but can yield 15 or 20 points in Rounds 3 and 5, the highest potential return on a single request. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
: &#039;&#039;Market Routes&#039;&#039; and &#039;&#039;Expeditions&#039;&#039; both score up to 18 VPs, but avoid having to fulfill them simultaneously, especially in Round 3, as the upkeep in wood/money on 6 ships is high, and ships cannot be sent Home.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
It is helpful to have complementary requests in hand: Market Routes + Wealth of the Nations (trade routes get you money); Influence of the Guilds + Urbanization (claiming Guild favours clears space for urbanization).&lt;/div&gt;</summary>
		<author><name>Nandblock</name></author>
	</entry>
	<entry>
		<id>https://gl.doc.boardgamearena.com/index.php?title=Tips_madeira&amp;diff=2143</id>
		<title>Tips madeira</title>
		<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="https://gl.doc.boardgamearena.com/index.php?title=Tips_madeira&amp;diff=2143"/>
		<updated>2016-12-27T23:08:51Z</updated>

		<summary type="html">&lt;p&gt;Nandblock: /* Passing */&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;hr /&gt;
&lt;div&gt;== Worker Placement ==&lt;br /&gt;
You will need at least one worker in Regions 2 and 3 most of the time, as the building actions here are vital to winning. And you will of course also need a worker in the forest. Ideally you want one worker in every region, so that all character, harvest and building actions can be effectively triggered, but Region 1 is less important, given that it has only one building to activate, unless your strategy depends heavily on workers in the colonies (in which case, move them there as soon as possible to maximize the number of turns they will produce).&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Region 2:&lt;br /&gt;
:&#039;&#039;Moinho&#039;&#039;: If you have 3 workers in this region you get 5 bread, just before you need to feed your workers.&lt;br /&gt;
:&#039;&#039;Capitania&#039;&#039;: The main way to move workers into the city. If you have 3 workers in the region over 5 turns you can earn an easy 15 points, also (3 points bonus x 5 turns).&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Region 3:&lt;br /&gt;
:&#039;&#039;Casa da Coroa&#039;&#039;: Important once you have accumulated guild favours.&lt;br /&gt;
:&#039;&#039;Fortaleza&#039;&#039;: Places one or two workers in the City Watch: this accomplishes 3 things simultaneously so is the most powerful spot on the board (discards 3 or 6 pirates, gives you the potential to earn 4 points or block someone else from earning 4 points in the Honor phase, and sets you up next turn to use pirate dice for extra actions). &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== Getting and Losing Pirates ==&lt;br /&gt;
Try to avoid having any pirates at game end: in a 2-player game in particular, the 8- or 16-point swing may cost you the game. To play optimally, however, you frequently need to take pirates in order to conserve money, bread or wood, then discard them later. That said, try not to leave yourself with more than 6 pirates at the end of a round.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The main way of discarding pirates is placing workers in the City Watch, via the Fortaleza building action or other means (Scout, the 3rd passing favour, the King&#039;s favour). All of these actions will discard 3 pirates (or 6 if you activate Fortaleza&#039;s stronger ability). And when you acquire pirates from not paying for building actions, on average you will receive 3 (1 + the result of rolling one die). Therefore, as you approach the endgame, make sure you have an even multiple of 3 pirates.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
(Constable allows you to discard half your pirates; it is the only exception to the rule of 3.)&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
If you have a worker in Region 3, putting a guild die on Fortaleza means you can skip paying for earlier building actions, and then discard the resulting pirates at Fortaleza. This is a good way to conserve money if there is a building action you don&#039;t wish to use.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== Bread ==&lt;br /&gt;
Never start a round with no bread, as you will need it to modify dice. It is usually preferable to take a few pirates and hang on to a little bread.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== The Windmill ==&lt;br /&gt;
Do not neglect to use it to trade goods, gain bread, etc., if this allows you to accomplish an optimal move. Whenever you have a chance, especially early in the game, move up the windmill to save on bread later. (The Miller guild favour is especially useful for this.)&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== Passing ==&lt;br /&gt;
More actions is not necessarily better: try to pass early, once you&#039;ve completed all actions you absolutely &#039;&#039;have&#039;&#039; to do, and unless you urgently need an action lower on the passing column, grab a spot as high up as possible. Consider taking the 2 reals to guarantee first pick of dice, favour, and guild to unflip.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== Crown Requests ==&lt;br /&gt;
When selecting crown requests, consider whether they work well together, what round you will fulfill them in, and what requests will be left unclaimed for future rounds. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
It is vital to avoid getting stuck with multiple copies of the same request in Round 5, as the 2nd copy will score little or nothing.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
: &#039;&#039;Urbanization&#039;&#039; (city workers) is the most useful request, in Round 1 especially, as you are guaranteed to score some points from it with no effort, and scoring 12 or 15 points is relatively easy against unwary opponents.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
: &#039;&#039;Wealth of the Nations&#039;&#039; (money) request is poor in Rounds 1 and 3, but better in Round 5; money is too useful before then to waste on it. At game end it effectively scores only a maximum 12 points (as 15 coins would be worth 3 VP at game end).&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
: &#039;&#039;Influence of the Guilds&#039;&#039; is least valuable in Round 1, but can yield 15 or 20 points in Rounds 3 and 5, the highest potential return on a single request. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
: &#039;&#039;Market Routes&#039;&#039; and &#039;&#039;Expeditions&#039;&#039; both score up to 18 VPs, but avoid having to fulfill them simultaneously, especially in Round 3, as the upkeep in wood/money on 6 ships is high, and ships cannot be sent Home.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
It is helpful to have complementary requests in hand: Market Routes + Wealth of the Nations (trade routes get you money); Influence of the Guilds + Urbanization (claiming Guild favours clears space for urbanization).&lt;/div&gt;</summary>
		<author><name>Nandblock</name></author>
	</entry>
</feed>